I do not get this...

we put in the 160 thermo last night, water wetter, put new coolant in the raditor, and still it over heats at idle...i dont see how it could be a fan problem becuase i have a fan on there that pulls 3000 cfm....heres some pics of my fan....why do i only over heat when it sits at idle? and not when driving

that fan scares me... just get a couple of FAL's or something... :

its also unshrouded... which means its not necessarily pulling air through where it should

the fan only turns on at idle (or it should...at least) unless you have it switched... can you turn it on manually/let it idle/then it overheats?

maybe try flushing it

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped

the fan is always on...always....

im thinking of getting a smaller fan, but it gets so hot on that side it will prolly just melt

arggg

get 2x FAL black magic fans... theyre shrouded, very low profile compared to that beast..

having the fan on all the time is a bad idea... drains a lot of power, and there IS such a thing as too much cooling... but in your case ... you must have a blockage in the system or.. a bad water pump?

did it overheat this badly with the 195* thermostat? are you sure you installed the thermostat properly?

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped

well i cant even get any cooling..

we had no thermo in there for a while, so it would just cycle the coolant thro, but everyone said it was a bad idea...i dont see why...

so i put the thermo in...nothing much changed

same thing, over heat when it idled for a while...i doubt its the water pump

The fan needs to be sealed against the radiator in order to draw air through it. Otherwise it will be pulling air in from the sides, since it will take the path of least resistance.

Lets just say this... I'm over 100whp and soon to cross 200whp. Thanx 2GNT! Now if I could only learn to prove it.

are you sure it's a real overheating problem ?

or just the stupid sensor that feed a signal to the gauge in the dash that's not busted

they are not the most realiable part the largest one on the thermostat housing is the real sensor for the computer
the smaller one feed the gauge in the dash
change it and before starting to spend $$$$ elsewhere

Alain

one of the 2.4 true pionners

Does the coolant buble? In the reservoir i mean. Also is the leve the same or are you loosing some?

My HG leaked into the cylinders that caused my prob. NOT saying thats your prob but, it could be a possibility.

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97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
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Hey thanks for all the replies

OK...I have alot of info and answers....

1. YES, ill take the Radiator cap off, put the funnel in, poor in some coolant, and it WILL bubble...and it keeps doing it…
2. We did have a shroud around it, it was nice…But it was rattling against my IC piping, and other shit, so we took it off… It still was over heating with the shroud
3. Yes, im sure its not the sensor, because I have two different ones, the stock one, and an after market temp sensor
4. We flushed it. still no luck
5. ****Today, we took my friends GST radiator, custom made some radiator hoses, got it all in and snug, bought 2 850 and 950 cfm fans. Those have no gap, they are nice and snug against it….The GST radiator is like twice the size of ours, I thought this would help …STILL NO LUCK!!! It still was over heating…***** We put new coolant and everything…arggg!!!

I see my problem as one of 3 possibilities…
1. This head gasket leaking….How else could I test to see if it is bad? Is that going to totaly f*uk my new motor???? It’s a new head gasket…Could you please give me some more info, I don’t know anything about this…it sounds like it could be my problem…any info please would be awesome…
2. My water pump going out…this could be the problem, what do you think?
3. I still need some better fans (in my mind, this one seems to be ruled out, I had one 3000 cfm fan….now I have those others, nothing changed)

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP EVERYONE!

Dude, that is a CRAZY fan. I like it. Looks wicked DIY. Shroud that thing and it looks like it would just fine. 15 minutes and a few pieces of sheet metal might solve your overheating problems.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
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flush your radiator and check all your hoses for gunk buildup; also check your temp sensor.

Hey thanks for all the replies

OK...I have alot of info and answers....

1. YES, ill take the Radiator cap off, put the funnel in, poor in some coolant, and it WILL bubble...and it keeps doing it…
2. We did have a shroud around it, it was nice…But it was rattling against my IC piping, and other shit, so we took it off… It still was over heating with the shroud
3. Yes, im sure its not the sensor, because I have two different ones, the stock one, and an after market temp sensor
4. We flushed it. still no luck
5. ****Today, we took my friends GST radiator, custom made some radiator hoses, got it all in and snug, bought 2 850 and 950 cfm fans. Those have no gap, they are nice and snug against it….The GST radiator is like twice the size of ours, I thought this would help …STILL NO LUCK!!! It still was over heating…***** We put new coolant and everything…arggg!!!

I see my problem as one of 3 possibilities…
1. This head gasket leaking….How else could I test to see if it is bad? Is that going to totaly f*uk my new motor???? It’s a new head gasket…Could you please give me some more info, I don’t know anything about this…it sounds like it could be my problem…any info please would be awesome…
2. My water pump going out…this could be the problem, what do you think?
3. I still need some better fans (in my mind, this one seems to be ruled out, I had one 3000 cfm fan….now I have those others, nothing changed)

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP EVERYONE!

Ok, to check to make sure your water pump is working: take out the thermostat then put the housing back together and run the car without it and keep the radiator cap off and look in. If you can see coolant flowing, your water pump is working.

The best way to check the headgasket is a leakdown test. You pressurize each cylinder and listen/look for escaping air. On my car, the air is escaping into the coolant passages and making the coolant bubble from the radiator cap opening. You have a new headgasket, but if it's not torqued down enough or not sealed fully in one spot, it's gonna leak.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6

lemme post the arsehole remark.. i've seen it happen..

The brass plug of the thermostat goes INTO the engine block.. if you can see the brass plug.. the thermostat is in backwards..

now that that is out of the way.. check to see if your rad is getting hot..

if it's barely warm.. and it's overheating, your waterpump is dead OR you have an airlock somewhere in the block/head.

take the thermostat out completely.. that will eliminate it as a problem.

-- WheatKing

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1 - Jeep to tow em home when they break

Or try revving your motor up to about 3500 rpm and see if your coolant temp drops. If it does your water pump is probably dieing.

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

i would say check the water pump and the pressure cap....i did a bunch of work on my brother cavi becuase it was overheating...i changed the thermostate, then the radaitor...then the head gasket + water pump and it still fuckin overheated...then we changed the pressure cap and it stopped after a day....he never thought about telling me that the day it started overheating that coolant came gushing out the cap....check them out though...i had coolant boiling in my overflow so i changed the cap and it hasnt ever since

Klein567 - Ya i heard about that ticket you and Sean got.
Clint485 - Stupid chick cop...worst part was she looked like a dude.
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with the type of fan u r running u have to have a shroud. it doesnt matter how many cfm it has it can pull shit through u radiator unless it has a shroud. thats why it fine when ur driving and got airflow through u radiator. so just get a shroud and u'll be fine
trust me on this we just went over all this crap at school nascar technical institue. for best flow get a shroud where the blades r half from the front and half from the rear for maxium flow

^^Work in progress pic
www.fastfabrications.com

Yesyesyes...Mine does the same thing, after i turn the car off, i hear the shit boiling bad in my over flow...
Well as far as i no the cap is fine, nothing leaks, it seals right...we replaced it about 2 months ago...What cap are you talking about????????


Im **NOT** using that 3000 CFM fan any more...a fan bald bent , took the fan and my raditor out...So we have a GST raditor on my car now, with two 850, 950 cfm fans..They are Shrouded, and perfect...The temps now seem to be more stable, while driving it stays right around 200-205, on a hot day it will start to over heat tho...

IS that was you guys are at?

Once i put those fans, with the gst raditor on, IT STILL OVER HEATS, BUT NOT AS FAST AS BEFORE...Now im thinking if i get two , 2000 cfm fans, the slim line ones, that may help...Were almost positive its not the head gasket, (i would be leaking compression, but my compression is fine), the water pump is new....

BTW: this may be related....I have this tublar mani...After i have been driving a bit, it GLOWS..is that normal for that type of mani, or would that mean im running way to lean????

thanks for everyones helP!!

Thats a crazy manifold. Did you find out if your water pump is working? Stay calm, and systematically check one component at a time, and completely rule it out before checking the next one.

Good luck.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

i think with a gst radiator it uses a cap which has a higher pressure which means it would cause the water to boil at a higher temp which u would think would be good but in most cases its best to use the factory pressure rating on the radiator cap that came with ur car. its weird but having the higher pressure cap can cause ur car to over heat.


^^Work in progress pic
www.fastfabrications.com

Like mentioned before, are you SURE your thermostat is in properly? Using stock radiator and stock fans, you should NEVER overheat at idle..if you are using a GST radiator, and high volume fans, and still overheating, something is def not right at all..Does your driver side fan come on at all when idling? The ECU turns the driver side fan on at around 206 degrees. It turns off at around 195 degrees or so. If you fan is not turning on at all, then that is your problem. Since you are not moving, there is no airflow over the radiator, which means the fan NEEDS to turn on at some point, which is should be doing at 206 degrees. If its not, then that is your problem. If your fan is turning on, and still overheating, then something is just not right. Do you get hot air from your heater? Pressure test your cooling system also..Could be a bad radiator cap too..Bad caps can cause very low pressure in the cooling system which can cause overheating. If everything checks out fine, then I'd say its most def your headgasket. A compression test will not usually verify this though, you need to do a leakdown test. YOu can buy leakdown testers at parts stores, and you need compressed air to use them..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
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My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Hey thanks for all the reply’s
1.Yea, my fans are ALWAYS on…The ECU doesn’t tell them what to do any more; they are on a relay, when the car comes on. The fans come on. Both fans are always on.
2.Yes, I do get very hot air from the heater
3.I have a 13 pound cap or whatever… There are no leaks what so ever, its seals right… The cap seems ok.
4.Tonight, I drained and re filled the radiator… half water half anti freeze…I was watching to see if the water pump was working, once the thermo opens, it was pushing water thro it very fast. Then it would sit for a while and bubble. Then same thing again… So the water pump works
5.The only thing we have left to try is the leak down test – and or better fans….
I really don’t think it’s the head gasket tho, im thinking that mani gets so f-ing hot its making the radiator hot to.

keep it comming...thanks for all replys!

Try all the fan you want and waste the next the 30yrs of your life on it......DUDE you have constant bubbles comming out of the coolant....where doo bubbles come from....AIR or boiling water. If the bubbles come out before the car is overheating you are getting air from the cyliders. Most compression gauges use an adapter with a milton fitting on it. insert the adapter snug and hook your air line to it from the compressor. do this for all cylinders before you spend any cash. the never ending bubbles were the first clue to quit buying fans ect.

Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Originally posted by xtrickedeclipsex
Hey thanks for all the reply’s 1.Yea, my fans are ALWAYS on…The ECU doesn’t tell them what to do any more; they are on a relay, when the car comes on. The fans come on. Both fans are always on. 2.Yes, I do get very hot air from the heater 3.I have a 13 pound cap or whatever… There are no leaks what so ever, its seals right… The cap seems ok. 4.Tonight, I drained and re filled the radiator… half water half anti freeze…I was watching to see if the water pump was working, once the thermo opens, it was pushing water thro it very fast. Then it would sit for a while and bubble. Then same thing again… So the water pump works 5.The only thing we have left to try is the leak down test – and or better fans…. I really don’t think it’s the head gasket tho, im thinking that mani gets so f-ing hot its making the radiator hot to. keep it comming...thanks for all replys!

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

You need to put some kind of cover(shroud) to that fan. This way the air is force thru the radiator removing the heat from the coolant or water. Try getting some kind of shroud or cover for the fan. Also you can take the thermostat and drill a couple of holes on the sides. This will make a little water constantly exiting the block. Don't remove the thermostat because the water needs some time in the radiator to cool down.

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the thermo has to be working...for one, even without the thermo it was over heating...and i can watch it open and close

i think it must be the head gasket then...if its bubbling before it even hot, dosent that mean it has to be the head gasket?

tommrow were going to do the "block" test, you can test the coolant to see if there is other shit in it..ill let you no tommrow

OK...yea im sure its not the water pump

ok, i want you guys to chek out this video clip of the coolant bubbling when the motor is still pretty cold...could this mean back HG?????

CHECK THE VID OUT... Its in Windows Media format FYI
http://www.angelfire.com/linux/cookymonsta/images/cooling.wmv


THANKS FOR everyones help!

http://www.angelfire.com/linux/cookymonsta/images/cooling.wmv

That anglefire ink i garbage...nogo. anyway pressure test your radiator with a coolant tester. pup the pressure up to the red on the gauge and let it set for a few minutes. if pressure slowly drop you have a leak. next do a leakdown test on your cyliders, see if air comes out of your coolant then you know its a HG.....you spend the next day cussin and swearing then you can pan on doing the head gasket....lol

your going to have to do this...there is no way to get around it...do the legwork and find your problem

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

yes, today we will have the time to do both tests...last night i replaced it with a 16 psi cap, (autozone said thats the psi our cars use, but then again..its auto zone) i HAD a 13 psi cap on there before...so that will also be rules out if it dosent work...ill have more info today
thanks guys

Just an FYI.....the RS/GS has a 13psi cap stock, GS-T and GSX use the 16psi cap. I have a 16psi cap on my GS too.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6