Ok so far I have the star FCD and the missing link installed. I have no transitoin cut from vac to boost anymore since I installed the FDC.But Everytime I boost full or part throttle past 4.5 R.P.M.s The engine just dies.When I first crank my car before it warms up I can boost fine but like 3 min after it warms up it just cuts off like usual. Does Anybody know what this is?Or what It could be.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

You hooked the FCD up wrong. That's a MAP sensor problem.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Whats the right way? I Have it red wire to switched 12 volts ground to black, white to map green to ECU on the yellow wire with black strip.Is that wrong?On top of that I put my old missing link on it. I had this problem also before I put it on.But I dont remeber it hitting cut quite as quick (I installed it next to the sensor would location make a difference?)

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

Anybody got any Ideas???

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

Try taking off the VC1 entirely. See what happens.

It's been so long since i've intalled one of those things i don't rem,ember the colors. From where did you get the 12v+? Where is it grounded?

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Its the reason I put it on was to stop it from cutting off at 4K.I had a missing link on before I figured it broke so I got the FCD from MRBLUNT.I got the power from the fuse box under the hood Its grounded to the screw on the map sensor.My car ran great when I first put on the turbo 2 weeks after I had it spike cause I used the manifold to raise it up from 4 psi to 7 psi.But the line popped off so I put it back the way I had it.Ever since its been cutting off after the car warms up and cuts off like clockwerk at 4.5k RPMs.with boost I can feather the pedal and not go into boost and it will rev all the way fine

97 ECLIPSE GST SOLD
13 Chrysler 200 V6

for FCD hook up instructions, look here:
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=56744&mesg_id=56744&listing_type=search

99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+

Glad to see you received the box. I don't have the service manual in front of me but it kind of sounds like your map sensor is going out. I would imagine it can be tested for resistance, you may want to check and see what that resistance is. I am at work or I would have looked it up

400whp or bust.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Yes Im fearing that it could also be the computer (KNOCKS ON WOOD).But I have thought it is possable.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

Well I just tried a friend of mines MAP sensor and it does the same thing (cuts off at like 4K)Does anybody have any ideas what else to check.Im thinking about just selling this setup and buying a 1G.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

IS there anybody who knows? Ive got one last idea the FCD operates at 4.5-7 volts I thought I read somewhere that there is a 4.5 volt unit?I checked the voltage and the unit puts out 4.6 volts. and with the key on engine off the map reads 4.5 volts, Being that I tried my friends map sensor and it did the same thing.Im wondering if the FCD is not cutting back enough voltage?

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

I checked my codes again I now have a MAP sensor code High input on the ODBII scantool. I didnt get this code until I put on the FCD.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

You either have a MAP sensor problem (likelly), or you wired up the FCD wrong...

Lee.

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Megasquirt powered 420A
Custom turbo system

http://www.ms-custom.com

I have it on a post above how I have it wired.I also already tried a friends 95 map sensor.It did the same thing.Im wondering if the voltage coming from the FCD is too much and the missing link isnt working.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

Fuck this thing, nobody can help. Im just gona light a match and watch it burn to the ground and collect my money from insurance! The more I drive it the more I hate it.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

do you have a datatlogger so you can check the map voltage? this may be a good indicator of what its doing. i can't understand how both the fcd adn missing link would fail. is the obd 1 mapsensor in a 95 the same part number as the obd 2 98?

400whp or bust.

I checked my voltage on my map before and after the car warmed up.It stayed at 4.6 volts all the way through(before it warms up and lets me boost past 4.5) so the missing link is working so somthing else is causing it to shut down at around 4.5 rpms.My O2 voltage is .96-.98 on the scantool and when it cuts off it goes to 1.0 .Im now thinking that it has somthing to do with the ignition cutting off. When I put the head back on I didnt plug the cam sensor in enough and it would shut off under a load and did somthing simular.But the thing is the only code Im getting is the EGR because I blocked it off.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

BTW what should ab TPS be at max, Im only getting 76% at WOT and 12 % with the car off.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

heres part of what i was telling you on the phone. read the part where they start to talk about the temp sensor

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=73295&mesg_id=73295&page=

sounds like these guys have the same problem your experiencing

400whp or bust.

Copied from another post, not my explaination here

there is a very easy way to test MAP sensors, completely independent of the car.

1. cut the pigtail. you want about 1' of wire hanging off of the sensor.
2. strip the 3 wires. one wire takes +5, one wire ground, and the 3rd wire you hook to a multimeter referenced to the power ground.
3. the voltage should read exactly 4.5 volts, in theory. MAP sensor "atmospheric" or "29.92 inches of mercury" will vary depending on temperature, outside barometric pressure, etc...

if this test is completed and the voltage when on the car (and the car off) doesn’t read 4.5 volts, there’s something wrong with the wiring in the car, or maybe something is wrong with the +5 volt feed from the ECU, who knows.

the car will run with the MAP sensor completely disconnected, but will be stuck in open loop mode and will not go far above 4000 RPM's because that's where the "secondary" fuel matrix ends.

a few months ago i had so many MAP sensor problems. one of the causes was the little open-looper that i made which was frying MAP sensors and the other cause was a faulty MAP sensor connector/pigtail.

400whp or bust.

I too have this same problem and I just finished my homemade turbo kit but I dont have the FCD only a missing link. I thought it was my MSD rev limiter but then I realized what it was after reading your post. I work at a performance shop and I have a mechanic that I work with that will be able to help me with this tomorrow and I'll be working on it all day. As soon as we come to a solution I will post it from work. This is the first 420A we have turboed so we are still toying with it. My thought on this is to make the map sensor think you are always at idle and let the rising rate FPR take care of fuel management, I may be way off but at least I'll blow up my motor trying it and no one elses(All this means is my boss will be buying new stuff for my motor). Also, it could have something to do with the temp sensor now that I think about it my car only does it when it warms up. I'll be posting my result sometime in the afternoon.


Slow_AT_Talon: No longer slow no longer A\T

I know this sounds really stupid but I just thought about it. My problem just started today and the only thing I change before it happened was my spark plugs. I had some Bosch Platinum +4's and I put in NGK BPK7RE-11's. I'll be switching them back and maybe buying new ones. I liked the Bosch's cause they run cold anyway but I heard that the NGK's run better with my setup. If turns out to be the problem I will post around 1pm Eastern time.

Ok.I can boost and take it up through the rpms if I stay at around 40%(more or less its not so much as % its just keeping it from too much boost and throttle) throttle and 3 psi but If I open the throttle too much it cuts off, This does this with the missing link and the FCD both off So Im guessing that my map is still seeing boost with both of them on there.Temp does not play into efect I got the cut right after it went out of open loop.My voltage to my TPS only goes to 3.4 at WOT is that normal?And Im still getting the too high input map sensor code.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6

My problem is solved. I reinstalled the +4's and I turned my Missing Link around as well as my map sensor. Hope this helps if not try another FCD. Good luck

I'm trying to put together my own voltage clamp at school (DeVry). What voltage range can the ecu see before it starts to freak and cuts fuel?

0v<-->4.5v? 4.6v and it gives fuel cut?

just trying to find out what voltage range I'm going to need to work with.

thanks

check out this link. dude has a map sensor for sale for 20 bucks. its worth a try for that cheap.

his name on here is Pushin420, send him a pm and snatch that thing up

400whp or bust.

I dont think its my map sensor anymore because I built the adjustable one and it works.I set it for voltage and by the scan tool, Normally when I kick the key on its at 30.1 hg I set the FCD to 29.5 hg and tested it out the same thing happened then I set it to 28.1 hg the same and it wont go past it ever not even on part throttle and there is no hesitation anymore from vac to boost.I still dont get what it could be? could it be plugs or wires? but why can I boost somewhat before it warms up? Im stumped.

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13 Chrysler 200 V6