Ok, I was finally able to get it to idle ok,... the knocking noise i was hearing is slower than the rpm's.... so does that mean it's in the head? Here are the problems im currently having
1. Knocking noise seems to come and go. but slow than rpm's by about half i would say.
2. Engine is in limp mode.... I put in a EGR block off would this cause limp mode? or could i have a bad MAP? What things can i check for? If i replace the map will it automaticaly go out of limp mode or do i need to reset something?
3. I don't have any hyrdolic flud in for the clutch im not sure if this could be my problem but my transmission seems to be engaged.. even when i have it out of gear the speedometer is going up and i did a visual of the trans and it's turning.. (i have axles out)... Could this just be because the clutch is engaged and has no pressure?
Formally Project Solar Eclipse Now Entering 300ZX Land.
Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge Freshly Painted Calipers Stillen Unorthodox Pulley Stillen Front Nose / Bumper Stillen Short Shifter New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around New Tension Rods New Fuel Injectors New Spark Plugs New Motor Mounts New Vacuum Hoses New Heater Core New Fuel Filter New Ignition Control Module New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder
#67416, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 0
Originally posted by solareclipse98 Ok, I was finally able to get it to idle ok,... the knocking noise i was hearing is slower than the rpm's.... so does that mean it's in the head? Here are the problems im currently having 1. Knocking noise seems to come and go. but slow than rpm's by about half i would say. 2. Engine is in limp mode.... I put in a EGR block off would this cause limp mode? or could i have a bad MAP? What things can i check for? If i replace the map will it automaticaly go out of limp mode or do i need to reset something? 3. I don't have any hyrdolic flud in for the clutch im not sure if this could be my problem but my transmission seems to be engaged.. even when i have it out of gear the speedometer is going up and i did a visual of the trans and it's turning.. (i have axles out)... Could this just be because the clutch is engaged and has no pressure?
1.) If it's half the RPM speed then it's more than likelly in the head...
2.) If your in limp home mode then its more than likelly the O2 sensor. If your MAP was bad usually the car will idle, but die as soon as you give it some gas. You have an SAFC... so it should be real easy to check the MAP. Go to the Sensor Check page. Check the MAP reading with the car off. Then start her up and check the reading again. You should see around 4.6V with the car off, and around 1.8V at idle I think... not totally sure on those numbers...
3.) If you have the car in the air, with the driveshafts out... then yeah, the tranny will be turning... It's the nature of a tranny when you have no load on it... the input shaft is still turnoing... and it will make the output shaft turn if you have no load and are out of gear even...
#67424, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by MrSlick
Originally posted by solareclipse98 Ok, I was finally able to get it to idle ok,... the knocking noise i was hearing is slower than the rpm's.... so does that mean it's in the head? Here are the problems im currently having 1. Knocking noise seems to come and go. but slow than rpm's by about half i would say. 2. Engine is in limp mode.... I put in a EGR block off would this cause limp mode? or could i have a bad MAP? What things can i check for? If i replace the map will it automaticaly go out of limp mode or do i need to reset something? 3. I don't have any hyrdolic flud in for the clutch im not sure if this could be my problem but my transmission seems to be engaged.. even when i have it out of gear the speedometer is going up and i did a visual of the trans and it's turning.. (i have axles out)... Could this just be because the clutch is engaged and has no pressure?
1.) If it's half the RPM speed then it's more than likelly in the head... 2.) If your in limp home mode then its more than likelly the O2 sensor. If your MAP was bad usually the car will idle, but die as soon as you give it some gas. You have an SAFC... so it should be real easy to check the MAP. Go to the Sensor Check page. Check the MAP reading with the car off. Then start her up and check the reading again. You should see around 4.6V with the car off, and around 1.8V at idle I think... not totally sure on those numbers... 3.) If you have the car in the air, with the driveshafts out... then yeah, the tranny will be turning... It's the nature of a tranny when you have no load on it... the input shaft is still turnoing... and it will make the output shaft turn if you have no load and are out of gear even...
The car seems to be in that 4000rpm mode... Would and O2 Sensor cause this?? I always that it was the MAP that would cause this...
Formally Project Solar Eclipse Now Entering 300ZX Land.
Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge Freshly Painted Calipers Stillen Unorthodox Pulley Stillen Front Nose / Bumper Stillen Short Shifter New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around New Tension Rods New Fuel Injectors New Spark Plugs New Motor Mounts New Vacuum Hoses New Heater Core New Fuel Filter New Ignition Control Module New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder
#67435, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 3
Originally posted by solareclipse98
Originally posted by MrSlick
Originally posted by solareclipse98 Ok, I was finally able to get it to idle ok,... the knocking noise i was hearing is slower than the rpm's.... so does that mean it's in the head? Here are the problems im currently having 1. Knocking noise seems to come and go. but slow than rpm's by about half i would say. 2. Engine is in limp mode.... I put in a EGR block off would this cause limp mode? or could i have a bad MAP? What things can i check for? If i replace the map will it automaticaly go out of limp mode or do i need to reset something? 3. I don't have any hyrdolic flud in for the clutch im not sure if this could be my problem but my transmission seems to be engaged.. even when i have it out of gear the speedometer is going up and i did a visual of the trans and it's turning.. (i have axles out)... Could this just be because the clutch is engaged and has no pressure?
1.) If it's half the RPM speed then it's more than likelly in the head... 2.) If your in limp home mode then its more than likelly the O2 sensor. If your MAP was bad usually the car will idle, but die as soon as you give it some gas. You have an SAFC... so it should be real easy to check the MAP. Go to the Sensor Check page. Check the MAP reading with the car off. Then start her up and check the reading again. You should see around 4.6V with the car off, and around 1.8V at idle I think... not totally sure on those numbers... 3.) If you have the car in the air, with the driveshafts out... then yeah, the tranny will be turning... It's the nature of a tranny when you have no load on it... the input shaft is still turnoing... and it will make the output shaft turn if you have no load and are out of gear even...
The car seems to be in that 4000rpm mode... Would and O2 Sensor cause this?? I always that it was the MAP that would cause this...
What do you mean 4000 rpm mode? You mean it idles at 4000 RPM?
If thats the case you more than likelly have a vaccum leak or one type or another... Even if the MAP output was maxed... what would happen is that youd prolly stall from running way too rich.
If its stuck at 4000 rpm then their is enough air for 4000 rpm getting in there...
Easy check... get a can of engine start and spray small amounts around the intake system (outside) while she idles... if the rpm picks up when you spray a certain area.. thats where your leak is at.
#67437, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by MrSlick
Originally posted by solareclipse98
Originally posted by MrSlick
Originally posted by solareclipse98 Ok, I was finally able to get it to idle ok,... the knocking noise i was hearing is slower than the rpm's.... so does that mean it's in the head? Here are the problems im currently having 1. Knocking noise seems to come and go. but slow than rpm's by about half i would say. 2. Engine is in limp mode.... I put in a EGR block off would this cause limp mode? or could i have a bad MAP? What things can i check for? If i replace the map will it automaticaly go out of limp mode or do i need to reset something? 3. I don't have any hyrdolic flud in for the clutch im not sure if this could be my problem but my transmission seems to be engaged.. even when i have it out of gear the speedometer is going up and i did a visual of the trans and it's turning.. (i have axles out)... Could this just be because the clutch is engaged and has no pressure?
1.) If it's half the RPM speed then it's more than likelly in the head... 2.) If your in limp home mode then its more than likelly the O2 sensor. If your MAP was bad usually the car will idle, but die as soon as you give it some gas. You have an SAFC... so it should be real easy to check the MAP. Go to the Sensor Check page. Check the MAP reading with the car off. Then start her up and check the reading again. You should see around 4.6V with the car off, and around 1.8V at idle I think... not totally sure on those numbers... 3.) If you have the car in the air, with the driveshafts out... then yeah, the tranny will be turning... It's the nature of a tranny when you have no load on it... the input shaft is still turnoing... and it will make the output shaft turn if you have no load and are out of gear even...
The car seems to be in that 4000rpm mode... Would and O2 Sensor cause this?? I always that it was the MAP that would cause this...
What do you mean 4000 rpm mode? You mean it idles at 4000 RPM? If thats the case you more than likelly have a vaccum leak or one type or another... Even if the MAP output was maxed... what would happen is that youd prolly stall from running way too rich. If its stuck at 4000 rpm then their is enough air for 4000 rpm getting in there... Easy check... get a can of engine start and spray small amounts around the intake system (outside) while she idles... if the rpm picks up when you spray a certain area.. thats where your leak is at. Lee.
No, what i meant was that it wont let me go above 4000rpm... it's like in safe mode.
Formally Project Solar Eclipse Now Entering 300ZX Land.
Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge Freshly Painted Calipers Stillen Unorthodox Pulley Stillen Front Nose / Bumper Stillen Short Shifter New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around New Tension Rods New Fuel Injectors New Spark Plugs New Motor Mounts New Vacuum Hoses New Heater Core New Fuel Filter New Ignition Control Module New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder
#67438, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 5
There is no limp mode. When the ECU doesn't get a MAP signal, fuel runs out at 4000 RPM, and the engine cannot rev any higher.
Dead front O2 sensors result in an inability to trim fuel, so it just runs in open loop (rich).
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#67443, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by DarkOne There is no limp mode. When the ECU doesn't get a MAP signal, fuel runs out at 4000 RPM, and the engine cannot rev any higher. Dead front O2 sensors result in an inability to trim fuel, so it just runs in open loop (rich).
Thats weird... on my 99 it dies if I have the MAP disconnected and rev it... doesnt make it past 1200...
Oh well... I told him how to check the MAP signal using the SAFC...
And when you have no O2 input... running open loop is the limp mode...
#67446, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 7
Originally posted by MrSlick And when you have no O2 input... running open loop is the limp mode...
I hate to take this off topic, but does that mean that cold startups are limp mode? WOT is limp mode? No, open loop and limp mode or two different things entirely. There is no "limp mode" in the sense that most people think about it.
Anyway.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#67450, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 8
Originally posted by DarkOne
Originally posted by MrSlick And when you have no O2 input... running open loop is the limp mode...
I hate to take this off topic, but does that mean that cold startups are limp mode? WOT is limp mode? No, open loop and limp mode or two different things entirely. There is no "limp mode" in the sense that most people think about it. Anyway.
I do agree with you... IT's not a true limp mode... but it might as well be. It fits most of the definition of limp mode... Ah well...
Back on topic... check the MAP voltages at both idle and with the car off and see what readings you get. You should also see the MAP voltage rise as you increase throttle...
#67478, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 9
If you can't get above 4000 RPM's, it sounds like that is where you are starting to build boost, your map is seeing that, and cutting fuel. On your SAFC, go to .etc, then to sensor check, then rev the motor and see what your highest voltage is for the top sensor. I can't remember exactly what voltage the computer starts cutting fuel, but it's close to 5 ...
amiller99rs: seriously, chicks suck sometimes amiller99rs: like if a girl walked by and said "Hey, nice cock" and just kept going you'd smile all day about that
#67506, "RE: Update on solar. Solar in limp mode." In response to Reply # 10
Originally posted by Cereal5 If you can't get above 4000 RPM's, it sounds like that is where you are starting to build boost, your map is seeing that, and cutting fuel. On your SAFC, go to .etc, then to sensor check, then rev the motor and see what your highest voltage is for the top sensor. I can't remember exactly what voltage the computer starts cutting fuel, but it's close to 5 ...
Will do... I ordered a new TB gasket and a new MAP sensor just to be on the safe side.. i'm also thinking about replaceing the o2 sensors...
I will start it back up again tonight and see what i get on the sensor check.
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