I've been reading your web site and your setup. Its exactly the same as mine. Greddy emanage and all. I could use your help. I couls use your help. I've been having dificulty tunning the damn emanage and I am pretty soon heading to a dyno. Thanks for your help.
#65364, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 2 Feb-17-04 09:16 AM by MuRiX
What size injectors are you running and how is your fuel pressure set up? Mine is using 50lb/hr injectors with a fixed 1:1 regulator idling at 45psi.
We had a pretty easy system for setting it up.
Start with everything at 0. Try to make your updates minor. My car runs without the emanage so we started from there, as we do with all our cars. Let the ECU do most of the adjustment and then only fine tune with the Emanage. You will need to pay the most attention around 4000-5000 when the car really starts making power.
One thing we found made a big difference is to NOT use the injector sizing option. This made my car run like shit. It made tuning pretty much impossible. Leave it alone.
If you have any specific questions I can try and help you with you can aim me at mur1x, but I tend to be on and off these days as I am doing a lot of travelling. I am a bit more settled down lately though.
#65367, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 3 Feb-17-04 09:40 AM by TXTurboGS
I have RC 440cc injectors currently running the 10:1 disk on the FMU at around 45-50 psi of FP at idle. How are your EGT's? I have access to 91 octane only. Thanks for your help. You got PM.
#65374, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 4 Feb-17-04 12:24 PM by Avenger
Originally posted by TXTurboGS I have RC 440cc injectors currently running the 10:1 disk on the FMU at around 45-50 psi of FP at idle. How are your EGT's? I have access to 91 octane only. Thanks for your help. You got PM. PS: I have Crane 16 cams also
I think alot of your difficulties lie with that 10:1 FMU disc. That is WAY too much fuel when you have 440cc/min injectors. Think of it this was at 5 psi of boost you will have over a 100psi of fuel pressure. On old 235cc/min injectors that isn't too big a deal but you've almost doubled the size of your injector and you still have that same high fuel pressure (with everything else being the same the duty cycle at all points would be same except a crap load more fuel since the injectors are ALOT bigger).
With all of this I'm guessing that you the car running really rough, mysteriously high EGTs (too much fuel left over), all while looking like you are running rich. Also, how much have you changed your main airflow map in your e-manage. It'd be nice to see what your settings are at.
Also, the injector size manipulation in the e-manage isn't the end all be all of fixes (it may be for some cars but not for ours).
#65393, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 5
Indeed, my PF gauge just spikes to more than 100. My EGT's wont go above 1400 at WOT, weird huh? My AF are 10:1 all the time, but have in mind that the LED display cannot read below 10:1.
I know what you are saying. I understand the concept and all, but the guy that tuned the car is just plain stupid. The mechanic that put it together did try to tune it on the street but failed to do it sucessfully so I the owner of the shop took it to Tucson to a dyno. We dont have any here where I live. They tried to explain how I needed a bigger turbo to run the SFMU (idiots) and how my intercooler is robbing some valuable psi of boost. I understand the IC parts, but how the fuck cant they use the SFMU? What a moron. Anyway, I did not pay for the dyno.
Right now I was just waiting to get my 20g and I did just a fe whours ago. I am also fixing the HG (overheating problem due to fan failure). It will be ready to dyno tune this week.
From what I've read so far. I should idle at around 25psi of FP, but I've just read too many possible etups that I cannot figure out which will be best. Still I am confused at what SFMU disk and ring combo to use for it to work properly.
I will be tunning on 91 octane for daily driving at 16psi and 20psi with higher octane. What would be some safe EGT's to tune to? Thanks and sorry for the long post.
#65399, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 6 Feb-17-04 05:50 PM by Avenger
Originally posted by TXTurboGS Indeed, my PF gauge just spikes to more than 100. My EGT's wont go above 1400 at WOT, weird huh? My AF are 10:1 all the time, but have in mind that the LED display cannot read below 10:1. I know what you are saying. I understand the concept and all, but the guy that tuned the car is just plain stupid. The mechanic that put it together did try to tune it on the street but failed to do it sucessfully so I the owner of the shop took it to Tucson to a dyno. We dont have any here where I live. They tried to explain how I needed a bigger turbo to run the SFMU (idiots) and how my intercooler is robbing some valuable psi of boost. I understand the IC parts, but how the fuck cant they use the SFMU? What a moron. Anyway, I did not pay for the dyno. Right now I was just waiting to get my 20g and I did just a fe whours ago. I am also fixing the HG (overheating problem due to fan failure). It will be ready to dyno tune this week. From what I've read so far. I should idle at around 25psi of FP, but I've just read too many possible etups that I cannot figure out which will be best. Still I am confused at what SFMU disk and ring combo to use for it to work properly. I will be tunning on 91 octane for daily driving at 16psi and 20psi with higher octane. What would be some safe EGT's to tune to? Thanks and sorry for the long post.
Actually sounds like you have a fairly close setup to mine (440cc/min, s20g, e-manage). I have some other stuff running but it's pretty close. Though my car isn't running (for stupid reasons) I think I can help. I personally don't like having FP under 30psi. Other people will tell you differently but that is just how I feel. Anyway, regardless of what you decide for your idle FP you'll most likely still have to lean out the e-manage airflow map because of those crane 16 cams. Less vacuum = higher pulse width. You can try to utilize the AES feature in the e-manage to trick the ECU into seeing more vacuum but I'm still working on that myself (I have Crower stage 2 cams). I'm my setup I will be running about a 4.5:1 rise rate (assuming starting idle FP at 30psi). I don't have the S-FMU so I can't help with the disc settings and such. I'm using an Aeromotive 1:1 FPR with a Chill Factory FMU behind it that is set for the 4.5:1 rise rate. At around 16psi of boost the FP should be around 100psi which gives the injecotrs enough pressure to give enough fuel for around 300-350hp (it's been awhile since I did my fuel calculations but it should be pretty close). You'll still have to tune the e-manage to get that all mapped out right but that should give you a decent baseline that won't have your running stupid rich the whole time. Anything under 10:1 AFR is just STUPID rich. Try what I mentioned ... you'll need to find the proper info for the S-FMU but it shouldn't be too hard ... but this should get you on the right track.
BTW, I live in Houston. I don't know if you live in Texas (I'm guessing you do from your SN) but if you are ever in the neighborhood I'm more than willing to help you tune the car (or at least try).
#65400, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 6
jeez dude, 10:1 on 440cc's? man just take a look at your sparkplugs, it must be bar-b-que charcoal in them things! the reason you don't get high EGT's 'cause you're running super duper rich. if you goto vortechengineering.com, you'll see that required disk to use on 42lb injectors is a 4:1 disk. i'm surprised you haven't fried your injectors yet.
#65452, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 8
Yes, the spark plugs are BBQ as you say. When I changed them I could notice a difference in throttle response right away, but that would fade within the net few miles. The injectors are ok since I havent had the car running for more than 100 miles with this setup. I just ran into a HG problem so I am replacing it today.
Thura, do you know of some good tunning shops in Houston? I am more than willing to take my car over there. Thanks for the help.
#65463, "RE: Murix, I need your help!!" In response to Reply # 9
Sorry, I can't recommend any tuning shop in Houston. Most either only deal with imports, or domestics and only know the particulars to each. The place I last went to is great at tuning hondas (they have one of the fastest in Texas ... 9s) but really don't know crap about a 420a Eclipse. Thanksfully they don't really work on cars they don't know anything about (I wish more shops were like that). Anyway, I just rent dyno time there for tuning.
Most places in Houston though do not have nearly enough understanding of how a 420a Eclipse works in terms of engine managment. It more of a concern when you boost on it. Some places and you really have to watch out for these guys just say they know what they are talking about how don't know jack crap. They talk a good game but couldn't deliver if their life depended on it.
The only people I would trust to tune a 420a Eclipse would be someone that has 1. Tunes 1st gen Neons or 2. Has a complete grasp of how the car functions in terms of fuel delivery and enginemangment. Don't know either place in Houston.
Note: Modern Performance is in Houston and does specialize in Neons. I don't have any experience with them at all other than having one of their 60mm TBs.
You really are best off learning how your car works so that you can tune it to your satisfaction instead of depending on someone to tune it for you. If you are ever in town I can help you out and give some insight but it's always best to understand why it does this and doesn't do that.
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