I finally got around to installing my boost controller this weekend.

Here's my setup:

Built VT Engine Block (8.8 : 1)
Engine and clutch (CM Stage 4) were broken in for 950 miles
390 cc/min Injectors
Vortech SFMU (2.62 disk, hard spring)
Idle fuel pressure approx 15 psi (This was adjusted to the STFT on the datalogger as I threw a check engine light for being to rich. The STFT is now +2/-2 with a long term fuel trim of -15.)
Accel Inline fuel pump / Walbro HP Fuel pump.

From the two graphs below, you can see that I am running pretty rich under boost (the o2 sensor is reading 1.02 in some places). That's not to bad for a starting point. I know it should be around .94 to .96. However, it seems that it takes a while for the fuel system to catch up to a boosted condition (see a momentary lean on the o2 readout and then it goes directly to rich). I guess this is normal as the regulator doesn't know that I am boosting until it actually sees the boost. It can only increase fuel pressure after the car is already boosting. I also think that it all depends on where you catch the ECU in closed loop mode - whether you catch it going on the swing to the lean side or the rich side.

For example, in the first graph the o2 sensor doesn't read rich until about 500 rpms after the 16g begins building boost (2800 rpm). In the second graph, the sensor reads rich right at 2,800 rpms which is perfect.

All in all, I think the car is running pretty good. I will be increasing the boost to 16psi eventually but I wanted to check fuel settings a 10 psi before putting the car under more of a strain. What do you guys think about the datalog readings?


P.S. During all my runs, the EGT gauge never went higher than 1325. My boost runs were through second and third gears only though so I am sure if I continued to boost in 4th gear it would approach 1400 degrees.

Thanks,
Kurt

Graph #1



Graph #2

turn it up


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.7 @ 87.9mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Whoops....I didn't realize that I posted the same graph twice. Graph #2 should be the following:

Just fyi the graphs dont mean much.. the numbers are what matter. From looking at the checkpoint (vertical line) though, we can see you are running nice and rich Hows the black smoke screen coming?


Also, those EGTs look too good to be true... where's your EGT probe located?

how do u read those graphs? is that the only thing that shows when datalogging? they have numbers on it? just wondering cuz im ordering one soon.



14.5 @ 95mph / 7psi 185hp/180tq

I'm not very familiar with the Pocketlogger, but does "Load" mean that's the throttle percentage? If so, then I'd recommend trying to got WOT (pedal to the metal) and see what your egt and a/f is under a full load. The graphs (numbers) do show that your fuel system is very rich, especially when you don't even rich 1500 deg. F. I'd try trimming a little more fuel and increase the load; your egt should increase a little, which will indicate a better (lower) a/f ratio.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Oops, looks like you beat me to answering my question

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Hahaha....I can't tell if I have a black smoke screen or not as my back windows are tinted black. The car sure does have alot of pickup at just 10 psi. I am sure 16 psi is going to be a lot of fun.


My EGT probe is located in the exhuast runner of cylinder #4. It was in the same exact position before and after the rebuild. It is also drilled and tapped into the manifold. I was also surprised that the temperatures are that low. All the readouts have been consistent since the time I bought the probe. Idles at 800 degrees, cruises at 1050 @ 35 mph, and 1350 @ 70 mph. Here is a picture of where it is located.





Those graphs are similar to what is displayed on the pocket logger when in datalogging mode. The reason I say similar is because the graphs displayed above are viewed through a java graph viewer developed by pocket logger. You can view the graphs directly on the pocketlogger but viewing the graphs on the PC allow you to pinpoint exact values on the curve much easier.


The pocketlogger has three modes when viewing on the palm. Diagnostic, View, and Datalog.


Diagnostic is for showing the codes for Check Engine Lights (CELs). The pocket logger will also show you a meaning for the code as well.


The View option shows real-time values in a numerical format. You can display as many parameters as your car supports. However, the values displayed in this mode are real-time and are not stored. What you see is what you get. The parameters that my car suppports are
--Calculated Load
--Coolant Temp
--Short Term Fuel Trim
--Long Term Fuel Trim
--MAP
--RPM
--Speed
--Ignition Timing
--Air Temp
--Throttle Position
--o2 Sensor


The Datalog option is where you store the values of all the sensors mentioned above during a run. The amount of time you log is totally up to you. I have logged anywhere from 5 minutes to over an hour. It is really dependent on how much memory you have on your palm. Datalogs take very litte space. Datalogging is the most valuable tool as it allows you to drive and then look at your results at a later time. You don't have to be looking at the palm while boosting your car (not safe anyways). The charts above are similar to what is displayed on the palm during a datalog.


Load is a calculated value on the pocketlogger tool (it is the pocketloggers best approximation - not reading an actual sensor). It is not 100% accurate as I have logged the car at WOT and the highest value I have achieved is 70%. I was WOT in the charts above (at least until I let off once I reached 70 mph. There are a lot of police officers in my area and they are not very friendly). You can tell the time that I was WOT as the o2 sensor readings are open loop (sensor values are a straight line and are not oscilating up and down between lean and rich).


Hope this helps,
Kurt

Yeah, your egt's seem too good to be true man. What kinda probe are you using? Your running rich it seems, but your egt's should be higher. Mine are at about 1400 at 70 mph in 5th on the freeway, about 10 hg vac.

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

By any chance, did you cut or shorten the EGT probe wiring that came with your gauge?

EGT wire is special- it can't be cut, and all the connections should be soldered (which is hard to do since the wire is weird). The wire is calibrated to a certain ohm load by length, so that's why you can't cut it.

I found out the hard way. I trimmed my EGT probe wire by about 2 feet, and my EGT's are about 300* from accurate. I ended up soldering the cut section back on but the smarter way would be just to buy an uncut wire.

The yellow signal wire for the EGT probe/gauge was never cut. I saw the warning in the instructions about the wire being specifically calibrated for the gauge.


I've done a couple more 10 psi runs from 2nd to the top of 3rd gear (shifting at about 5,500 rpms at the end of each gear) and the temperature readout is always the same. The EGTs are just a hair over 1300 degrees.


I know the gauge/probe is working correctly as when I am traveling up long steep hills at 70 mph the gauge will go into the 1400 degree range because of the extra load. Also, before the rebuild and larger injectors, the engine would run the 1400 degree temps at 8 psi on stock injectors.


If it makes any difference, I am using Sunoco 94 Octane fuel.


--Kurt