Well after 10 months with the rebuild engine and 5 months with the turbo kit on, this tuesday, at 300 meters from home I boosted the car.
And there it goes! After decelerating I hear it. A rod bearing went bad. Took the oil pan out and rod #4 was the guilty one. When I took the bearing out it had sufficient wear, no scrachs on the crancshaft though. There was a plug of metal shavings in the oil passage of the crankshaft. Maybe I didn't check and clean the cranshaft real good.
Well, I have been boosting from 5-12 psi with my custom turbo kit. It's a TEO4H Mitsu Turbo, not as big as a t3/t4 or G16. 8 injector setup with a HKS Additional Injector Controller. Never had detonation.
I found the bearing kit already and will get them and work on the car tomorrow.

I don't know what happend to me when rebuilding my engine. My son's eclipse, engine that I also rebuild, still running great almost 2 years now. Now he is laughing at me. Well, I will let you know what happend with the engine. Will post more pictures later with engine bay pictures and custom turbo kit.


Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

why the heck would you boost 12psi on a stock bottom end and not think you'd have problems



time for some forged shit
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home.
chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave.
DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here

The problem wasn't the boost. It was a metal particle on the cranshaft that cause the problem. The other three bearings are in good shape. My turbo is not as big as a 16G or T3/T4 and the ammount of air going in is not that much. As per Hahn Racecraft years of experience in his testing, after 275 hp the connecting rods won't handle the abuse. I wasn't aiming for 275hp, maybe 250 hp. This is why I choose the mitsubishi turbo TEO4H. It flows only 360 cfm @ 15 psi compare to the 16g flowing 505 cfm at 15 psi, good up to 340 hp.

At about 2000rpm I get full boost. If someday I decide to reach the 300-350 hp then I will buy a bigger turbo and use forged pistons and better rods. I have plenty of fuel to make high hp number, thanks to the eight injector setup. But my internals won't handle the hp. Right now I am happy with the car.

I have 31 and I already have the experience of spending to much money on an engine. This is why I set my HP goal.

Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

- Dan

HRC Stage 2|30lb injectors|S-FMU|Walbro255HP|AFX UDP|B&M Short Shifter w/ Symborski Shift Kit|Rear Strut Bar|Power Slot Rotors|more...

didn't see that.. yeah looks like it's stock internals

- Dan

HRC Stage 2|30lb injectors|S-FMU|Walbro255HP|AFX UDP|B&M Short Shifter w/ Symborski Shift Kit|Rear Strut Bar|Power Slot Rotors|more...

Guys, he wasn't asking for a critique on his setup. It is obvious, at least to me, that he knows what he is doing. I think that the biggest reason that people blow at 10-12 psi is the misdesigned HRC early stage fuel system, which runs without a fuel pressure regulator.

-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Finally yesterday I finish changing the rod bearings. Rod #1, #2 and #3 were in perfect condition, but #4 was all damage. I found a metal particle plug inside the oil passage on the cranshaft. It plug the passage completly. Why it was there? I don't know. Maybe I forgot to clean the cranshaft after I got it.
I started the car and its running fine now. Let me see if I can post some pictures of the bearings.

Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

dont you have to rebuild after a bad rod bearing?

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You will have to check the rod journal for scratches. I they are too deep, sorry but you will have to resurface or change the cranshaft. If they are almost nothing, use a 1000 grit sandpaper and polish the journal. In my case the rod bearing just went bad like 200 feet from my house.
If you keep using the car for a long period of time with a bad bearing, you will end having to remove the crqanshaft for repair or replacement.


Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

Well, finally found the problem!
After measuring the crank journal and installing the new set of bearings, the car started up. But, after 5 days of use it happend again. The bearing went bad again. This time under boost. The car feels strong though. Returned home and after thr holidays took the oil pan again. The same bearing went bad.

I measure the journal again and everything was OK. Then I measure the rod big end and found the problem. It was bended. Some how, when I first rebuild the engine, the metal particle I find in the oil passage of the crankshaft was restraining most of the oil going to the rod bearing. For 5 month, the engine show no noise or lost of power. The time I had to take the oil pan out to weld the oil retun line for the turbo, I found some metal particle in it, but I didn't pay attention. I even drive the car from Orlando to Naples. A 8 hour round drive at an avarage speed on highway of 75 mph. No problems. Now, when I measure the lower part of the rod cap, it was smaller by 0.002". Yes, the rod somehow strech and deform. The crank journal is Ok but the be rod looks like did't manage to support the force. It was obvious, no good lubrication = heat and wear. I was using Castrol 10W30 Synthetic, so I guess it help a lot vs. using regular oil.
Now I'm waiting for the new rod to start putting it together.

Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

Stock rod?

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Yes, everything is stock. The car was running great. The problem with the stock rod was way before I install the turbo kit. But I didn't notice it until too late. The metal shaving in the oil pan was before I install the turbo kit.

This is the second engine I rebuilt. The first one was my son's car(still running over a year of rebuilt); The second one, mine. I notice that with 75-80,000 miles, the pistons accumulate a lot of carbon deposit inside the ring lands. I had to clean them well and the oil passage of the pistons rings were cap with carbon deposits. Maybe this is why they say they are weak. With no oil lubrication the piston becomes weak under load and heat.

Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges