ok guys.... got a few questions

j.e. pistons 8.8:1 eagle forged hbeam rods, all clevite bearings and oil pump and a new water pump. also all the gaskets have been replaced rear and main seals replaced also....

the motor was just put in and we go to run the car, all of a sudden we start hearing some rod knock!..... ok, we take the pan off to see the bearings, checked it with some plasticgate and the clearances are in spec with the factory. but, i also noticed when we did the rebuild, we put white lithium grease on the bearings, when the bearings came off for inspection, on one of them, it looked like the grease had worn right off.

here is my situation, this motor has already been worked on before, about 1 and a half years ago. it had a spun bearing. when i looked at the workorder before, they charged me for a NEW crankshaft. that was at 100,000 miles, now the car is at 122,000 miles. so, im not sure if that crank is still good. i knew i shoulda got the crank turned while i got the block bored but im on a time schedule.

what do you guys think this could be? im going to check the crank with a micrometer and double check to see if its still good..

thanks

anyone????????????????????????????????????????????/please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

our cranks don't go bad all that often. we have knife edged cranks which is better tha normal.

did you prime the oil before trhing to start it?

James

Are you sure it's a rod knocking? You sure your torque converter or clutch bolts aren't coming loose? Hopefully it's something minor.

we did prime the oil.... when we ran the car for the first 3 minutes, it was quiet, then the knocking, then it got louder. could timing affect this? like i said before, when we checked the rod bearing, the white lithium grease that we coated them in, on one, it was almost all off. do these cars have to "warm up" before brand new internals are worked in?

First, check the simple way then go part by part to the most complicated. Check if the rod was properly intalled, they just go in one way. If this is OK, then check the oil passage for that rod journal (you didn't specified wich one was knocking). Check clearence with plsatigauge, especially the rod journal that was knocking. Maybe that crankshaft is worn there.
Just try to measure everything.


Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges

Are you sure it wasn't just piston slap?

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Let the engine run for 5 minutes, if it sounds like a desiel at first its piston slap from what I have been tol

ok guys... checked it with a mic, crank is good... bearings are good..so we go to run the car....

starts up good.... still the same ticking... but that went away, then the cel comes on and throws the timing belt code, it skipped one tooth. so a few hours later we fixed it, put in some irridium plugs and went to start it... no intake either. car ran great, we also put the six puck clutch and that grabbed ok... didnt squak cuz i wanted to keep it under 3 grand rpm.

all of a sudden, ticktickticktick.... so now we're wondering if its lifter tick... doesnt it usually clean itself with the oil? or is this gonna be another big job to fix? how long can the car run till im screwed? it sounds like its comin from the head.. the sound still stays when i accelerate but sometimes it goes away... please anyone have any good ideas? i really dont have much time to fix this, i plan on finishing my new manifold to fit a t04b and were trying to do all of this but saturday... any ideas guuys?

you may double check your timing components. i know my t-belt started ticking when my auto tensioner failed like 1 week after i put it back together. if it is just lifter tick, no huge deal. rebuild it whenever convenient or never at all. it is not a huge problem, as long as they still go up and down and dont hit anything in the stroke. normally lifter tick is when the engine is cold and is starved of oil for a few seconds. it should normally go away when warm but i believe there are cases of lifter tick when the car is warm. it also may be some way loud injectors. check to make sure they are seated 100%. good luck. problems suck but fixing them is worth it when you hit 15psi.

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Could also be exhaust leak at manifold.

Be sure to use a mechanic's stethoscope.

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Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

do any of you guys know if this lifter tick problem will be bad on a turbo motor? any quick fix ideas? im gonna try either marvel mystery oil or lucas oil stabalizer, that ticking is driving me nuts. lemme know if you guys have any suggestions

you could get pt lifters and rockers theya re the most updated versions.

what type of oil and weight are you running?

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

I'm not real sure about this with a distributorless engine but you said your timing was off. Could the sound your hearing possibly be spark knock? I've never heard it on our cars but it seems like a possibility.

yeah, we fixed the timing.... but the only thing that we did after was put in irridium plugs... im not sure if this makes spark knock... the motor ticks every time i accelerate or stay at idle. i tried putting in this motor purr crap additive in.. it died down a bit but was still very noticeable... did an oil change and then put in lucas oil stabalizer... ran it for about 10 mins to see if the tick would go away but it got louder.... so i guess im gonna try to get new lifters... anyone know a ball park price on a new set?oh and will the tick affect a turbo motor? i havent put the turbo on yet, my manifold is almost done and i wanna run this t04b really bad!!!!!

depends on what the tick is depends on if its bad or good..

you need to find out what general area the noise is from timing side intake manifold oil pan or cylinder head buy a 2$ mechanics stethoscope and tell us.


pt lifters should be under or around 90$

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.