From just looking at the head they said i was running extreamly rich.... they said that i wasn't creating enough fire on the one cylender and that i more than likely wracheted my rings... they said they will cover the cost to remove the pistons and replace the rings and barings and put the head etc back on...

looks like it's time to pull the rest of the motor out!

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

Awesome! Sounds like you'll be back in business soon. I can't wait to rebuild my motor and run some badass boost. 7-8 psi just isn't cutting it. Plus the clutch slips like mad. Wish I had a big load of cash so I could do it all at once. At this rate, I might have the money for a rebuild late next year . Clutch can't wait however, so hopefully I can get one of those in a month or two. Anyone using a SPEC brand clutch?

Best of luck to you!

1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

30's are only going to be good for 14 psi or so. You are going to run more than that right? You'd better! You have such a good foundation for boost now... can't wait to see how it all comes out.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Just learn how to tune you car.

If it was only getting copius amounts of fuel on one cylinder, i'd send the injectors to be flow tested and mechanically checked. You might have a stuck one.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

Originally posted by Eclipse2NR
30's are only going to be good for 14 psi or so. You are going to run more than that right? You'd better! You have such a good foundation for boost now... can't wait to see how it all comes out. 1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/ Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

I think 440cc injectors are like the worlds perfect size injectors. We know now that we can make them idle with the stock ECU, even if some ammount of correction must be made with the SAFC. I have a feeling you could even make them work without an SAFC. The only issue with the 440's is that the ECU wants to hold them open way more than it needs to since it is running off maps based on our puny stock injectors. This requires very low fuel pressures, which make the atomization of the air and fuel less than desirable. This is caused by a erradic spray pattern at very low fuel pressures, because that size of injector (or pretty much any injector) is not designed for such low fuel pressures, but because of the ECU fuel maps, we have to run them that low to idle correctly.

This is why many forced induction kits include one or two additional fuel injectors. They use the stock injectors just like before, and add additional fuel in boost from the secondary injectors to compensate for the extra air. This is why we really really really need some sort of piggyback/standalone ECU. If we had something like the WRX TurboXS UTEC computer, we'd have it made in the shade. the UTEC allows for completely independant, customizable, fuel maps, boost controll utilizing the factory boost control solenoid, and complete control of the ignition timing. This would address all of our problems, especially the control of our ignition timing. We may never get such an item, so we work with what we have.

Sorry to get so caught up in techno-babble, and as for your question, I would recommend 440cc injectors. You don't want to be pinned to 14 psi with the engine mods you have, and the 440s will carry you pretty far. I don't have the calculations, perhaps Corbin will enlighten us as to how far we can take the 440's.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

the car should have run just fine on 50lbs injectors. sorry but it honestly doesn't sound like you tuned the car at all. in my opinion, you can lean out using 50lb injectors.

james

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

that's bull!!! i'm using delphi 50lb injectors right now and i'm not running rich at all. you're suppose to use 1:5:1 disk on the SFMU and i'm idling at 12psi with no problems. i'm boosting 18psi daily, so it has nothing to do with that. you need to go to a dyno and tune them ASAP so you wouldn't have to run into any problems. you never knoe it could've been a defective part.

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

it's vortech part #6Z170-010...you got the -015. that's probably why you're kicking a little more fuel than you're suppose to, i have my SAFC 1k idling at -25% and idling perfect. when i dynoed last time, i showed a good slope from 12:2 to 12:5 all the way to 6.5k, it wasn't that rich.