Ever since I got my Starion FMIC on about a year a two ago it hasn't been as fun as a stage I. Stage I was instant throttle response and it felt damn good at a mesely 3 psi. I'd dip the gas a lil, hear the spool and off I go. Now I gotta dip the gas even more and boost even more to get the same output. I only boost at 7psi, but not all the time. Daily driving I only boost a couple pounds and don't gun the SOB and that's where I want a better throttle response. There are the usual solutions like pressure testing the pipes and getting a MP 60mm TB (which is on its way), UDP and there is also changing out the .63 A/R to a lower .48 sacrificing some top end but getting back the throttle response = fun factor. Does anyone feel me on this? THanks guys
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch

cams, tb, intake manifold, udp, smaller a/r, lightened flywheel,and more efficient intercooler

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

Fix all your exhaust leaks.

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

What is the easiest way to check for the small leaks? You can hear big leaks but how bout those leaks that leak under hi load. I've heard of using a stethascope to hear for the leaks. I usually take a thin piece of paper and hold it near the supposed leak to see if it flutters. HOw would you check for leak around the exhaust port/ manifold area, it's so cramped there? One more question, where is the most common places to have a leak? THanks for the hiznelp yo!
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch

Exhaust leaks after the turbo don't really matter do they?

My exhaust leaks like a mother and I get almost instant 7 psi anywhere above 3000 RPM with a 1G SMIC and questionable piping.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

It is the exhaust leaks before the turbo that make it laggy, especially between the turbo and the manifold which I have developed and need to fix this weekend. I can still hit 20psi, but it makes it a bit slow up to 10 where it takes off after. Two things that can make a turbo laggy is leaks and running pig rich in low load conditions. You can make a pressure tester to find most leaks. Go here - http://nx2k.com/eclipse/index.htm - scroll to the bottom on the left and you will see a link for a pressure tester. It shows you what you need.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

Doesn't hoookin the pressure tester up straight to the inlet of the turbo make the impeller spin and that's bad when there is no oil? I hooked mine up right after the compresser so's to not have a siezed turbo.
Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch

Hooking up a pressure tested to the compressor inlet won't make the turbo spin fast enough (if at all ... not enough flow) to need the oil. Plus remember there is no heat either. You're just filling the volume of air intake system to see where air is leaking out.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft