I've read a lot of stuff on the site about nitrous setup, and still have a bunch of questions...I've pretty much decided on running the ZEX dry kit and a 55 shot...basically I want everything as SAFE as possible...

1) I'm pretty sure I need upgraded spark plugs and wires...2 stages colder? Which exact ones do I need and where do I buy them from??

2) Noob question-When I spray do the rpms go up a lot faster?

3) Do I always need to get high octane gas? Or is it ok for only when I use it? If I use it w/o high octane gas is it bad?

4) The ZEX website doesn't have anything available for the 95-99 n/t eclipse, but I'm pretty sure all of them are the same??? Universal?

5) 3 gauges I should get are Nitrous Pressure, Air/Fuel, and EGT or Fuel Pressure? WHich one? Any others?

6) I think I will get the bottle heater, is it worth it? Can I just wrap a small blanket around it to keep it warm LOL haha

7) What is the purpose of the purge kit? Do I need it?

8) What is the purpose of the remote Nitrous Bottle Valve Opener? And is it worth it? or do I need it

9) Any other mods I should get to ensure the safety of running the nitrous system?

10) Is there a switch or button that I can buy to activate/spray the nitrous??

I know its a ton of questions guys, thanks for any info that you might have! Basically I want to run the nitrous system as safe as possible...TIA

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im pretty sure the kit comes with an arming switch. zex is made so that the nitrous only hits at wot(wide open throttle). all you do is arm it and when the time is right it will come out. the purge kit releases excess pressure in the tank.......at least im pretty sure thats what it does. you dont really need the warmer unless you live in a place that gets cold a lot. im in florida so it would be pointless for me. def get an a/f and n/p gauge, dont know bout the other two. im looking into this mod as well so im still a little grey in some areas but this is what im pretty sure of so far. i told my man keith(dark racer) to let you know more since he has the kit on his g

lol ok I shall share the wizdom of Zex. I know all about Zex, and know a fair amount of Nitrous setups.

First to anwser your questions from 1-10

1)You will need to purchase the Zex plugs that will run around 30$ or some hard core racers will recommend NGK'z I prefer Zex.

2)When you "spray" the rpms climb alot faster. I used in 1st gear to test it out in 1st and it threw me to 7krpms in a second, then I shifted to 2nd and spun my tires all the way threw to 3rd. I have a gs eclipse running 55shots(75shots at the strip) and i run mid 14s with it.

3)Your going to need to keep Premium fuel at all tymes otherwise you risk burning a valve and pistons.

4)All Zex kits are universial. I paid 380.00 for my Dry kit on ebay Brand new.

5)A/F ratio gauge is the only gauge u need that will actually tell you anything about your engine and how its holding up. A/F is a MUST!

6)Bottle heater? No you will not need UNLESS you use your nos more than 5 times. If you strip alot, then yeah, but one or 2 strip runs and your fine. The reason they make bottle heaters is to keep everything NON-Frozen so to speak. When you spray, your line gets cold, and so does your bottle. If you used it to much your bottle would probably freeze and become a waste of money. So just don't go overboard

7)I have the purge kit. Its awesome to impress chicks, and intimidate pos honda ricers that think they are fast by revin there pos Autozone muffler And purge kits are DESIGNED to clear your line of old nos, and refill it with new nos. Just cleans up your line... How nos goes "bad" sitting in the nos line is beyond me...

8)Bottle opener? No unless u wanna look cool. I won't pay 250.00 for something that i can just flip down my seat from the driver side and open my bottle.(which i have done lol)

9)Any other mods? No not really.. Just be sure to not over-do the shot. Keep it at 55 and you should like the gain, and your engine won't explode

10)Zex is set up to the TPS(throttle position sensor) what that means, is when your nmu is actived(by a switch that the kit comes with) there will be a green light on the nmu, then when you floor ur car at wot you will get spray. But the NMU will ONLY open up when you flip your switch.. So in order to make this simple, You flip your switch, then floor your car. If you flip the switch nos won't go threw your engine, only once the switch is fliped and the car is floored will u spray. VERY safe.

Any other questions ill be happy to help

If u want the safest kit, go for the Zex wet kit. Wet kits provide fuel and nitrous through a shark nossle into the intake pipe. This causes for less chances of leaning out and blowing the motor. 96+ cars are highly reccommened to get the wet kit.

Another thing. Lets say you are in fifth gear, the arming switch is armed, bottle open, but you are only going about 45 mph (cruising). Nitrous shoots in and your motor is blown.

Nitrous should only be shot when the engine can freely rev, like when racing. But if u hit fuel cut at 7200 rpm, this equals blown motor also, because no fuel is being added by injectors.

All these issues can be solved by a rmp window switch which is very simple to instal and cost $55. Set the rmp window to 3000-7000 rpm and I would only spray in 2nd gear, spraying in first will cause wheel spin and a quick way to hit the rev limiter.

True, I should have talked more about a wet kit. Wet is essentualy more safe than the Dry only because it makes your fuel richer, and less lean. But I have a dry and I'm more than fine with stock internals. Just watch the A/F Guauge and make sure your not anywhere near the yellow(Lean) side of the fuel. If you have a 95 eclipse then get a dry, otherwise get a Wet kit, because Dry kits require the FPR(Fuel Preasure Regulator) and 96+Do not have a FPR on the fuel rail like the 95 does. And I don't know what moron would spray at low rpm like that, and flooring in 1st isn't a bad thing just start out slow, if you want to beat those turboz using in 1st is a must lol just don't be a stupid driver. Many things can blow an engine, a 20$ rev limiter chip blew my friends GSR integra(3 times) So its really up to you, just don't be a stupid kid when it comes to nos and you will be fine. And in quartermiles times, spinning your tires in 1st by flooring it is stupid, I rev to 2.5k step on the clutch just as its starting to catch, when it starts to roll step on it 3/4 when I hit about 15mph, floor(nos)then shift, I don't watch the rpm when im just starting out, but do not use nos in 1st till ur a good driver Post any more questions you have.

if you are in 5th gear only going 45 then one you shouldnt be in 5th cuz you are barely above 2 grand which means you are nowhere near wot.

You use a bottle heater to raise the pressure in the bottle to an optimum level(between 900-1200psi). this allows you to get the most power out of each spray. its not intended to just keep things "un-frozen". a warm bottle has higher pressure, which provides a more accurate spray. low pressure will provide less HP. if your bottle isnt full, or its cold outside, a bottle warmer is almost a necessity to get the proper pressure in your bottle to spray most effectively.

1999 Black C5
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

Thanks for all the info guys I'll ask if I have any more questions...

User banned for scamming members on 2GNT, WIDSM, and CHITOWNDSM. This user and his brother Jason Ames have been involved with theft of parts from other DSM members. This individual is not trustworthy and should not be involved in any type of sale.

""6)Bottle heater? No you will not need UNLESS you use your nos more than 5 times. If you strip alot, then yeah, but one or 2 strip runs and your fine. The reason they make bottle heaters is to keep everything NON-Frozen so to speak. When you spray, your line gets cold, and so does your bottle. If you used it to much your bottle would probably freeze and become a waste of money. So just don't go overboard "

Wow you are sooo wrong. One of the guys above me explaned it correctly. Also, without a bottle heater, you will get very unconsistent pressures. one day, when your bottle has been sitting in the sun all day, it will run great... then at night it will seem slow. Why? warmer bottle = higher pressure. bottle heater is a must.

And the purge kit isn't to get rid of "bad nos", it's to clear all the air out of your lines that you get from turnin on/off the bottle and disconnecting it and any leaks you may have. You want this so that you spray nitrous right away, instead of air, then nitrous. Not as important as a bottle heater in my opinion, but good none the less.

As for wet vs. dry, I feel safer with a wet kit, as I know for a fact I'm getting the fuel I need without relying on the computer to supply it.

Also, hit me up on aim. I have some of my old nitrous set up that you may be interested in.

-Mike

EDIT: couple more things.

Usefullness of a remote bottle opener is kind of stupid if you ask me. Some people use it to get out of a nitrous ticket though... remotely close your bottle, and purge the lines.

Run colder plugs with nitrous. Zex plugs if you need name brand, NGK's work fine.

Don't spray in top gear. Period.

All nitrous kits come with an arming switch. You arm it, then you have another switch that activates the solenoids. Most are WOT (wide open throttle) so that when you press the gas all the way, it sprays. Safe for n2o noobs. I personally had a push button switch so that I could spray when I wanted to, later in gear, to reduce spin.

amiller99rs: seriously, chicks suck sometimes
amiller99rs: like if a girl walked by and said "Hey, nice cock" and just kept going you'd smile all day about that

Yeah I know, I read what someone said about the Bottle Heater and the purge kit as well, and they are 100% correct. But I only use nitrious at the drags a few times, I don't think a bottle heater is worth the money. And purge kits are designed for better responce, thats all I get from them.