Hey guys, here's a fix for that hard to find 5/16" fitting that you have to use for the SFMU to run the bleed/check valve setup.

If you don't already know, you can attach a bleed valve to the SFMU to lower your fuel pressures slightly while in boost. The amount of lowering is based on how much air you let out of the valve, and is adjusted by simply screwing the valve in or out. You can find bleed and check valves anywhere, but making it all come together and work properly is the hard part. Oh, in case you don't know what a check valve is, it's simply a one-way valve. It has two barbs, one on each end, and air can only go through the valve in one direction.

Now the above is nothing new, the way I tried to set my system up is a little different. First you'll need the parts to make your bleed valve. Here's a list, courtesy of DSMRoadster (these are part numbers from Home Depot, Watts Brand parts, and are found in the plumbing section).

A-139 Ice Maker Splice Tee (this has a little valve with an adjuster on it)

A-734 FIP Reducing Coupling

A-85 ID Hose Barb to MIP Adapter

After you buy these three parts from Home Depot (or whatever similiar store you have), go to a pet store and find the fish tank parts area. Buy a little check valve for about 2 bucks, and make sure it has little barbs on each end that you can stick vaccum tube on it. You will also need some vacuum hose, probably a couple feet or so. I think you need 5/16" ID. Now you have to assemble the bleed valve. Here's a picture of mine...



Once you get your bleed valve assebled, your ready to install.

If you are already running lean, you're going to have to put the next bigger disc in your SFMU. Next step (heres the new hotness part!), now forgive me if I am taking credit for someone elses idea, but here is what I've done. Normally to hook up this system, you have to find a little tiny fitting to go in your "Bleed" port on the SFMU. This fitting is almost impossible to find locally. Since I needed a quick fix, I realized that there is no good reason not to just adjust the signal line to the SFMU. Here's how it works.

Since you don't want to affect the signal to the SFMU until you are in boost, we are going to plumb it like this...



Plumb your car like this. Secure your signal lines and components away from moving parts. Make sure the valve is screwed all the way in. This will do the same exact thing as hooking up the bleed valve to the Bleed port on the SFMU, were just moving it down the line a little. To lean out the fuel curve in boost, simply open the valve in one half-turn increments until you reach your desired fuel pressure.

Happy boosting!



1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

can you post a pic when its installed in your car


-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler


:o

good work man!

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

By the way, if anyone is having trouble finding the parts, or is just too lazy to go find them all, I'd be glad to make you a little kit for this stuff. The whole thing costs about 20 bucks. Let me know if you want me to send you one.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

holy double post fartman!

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

you could buy the bleed valve for that much.

edit: http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MNV-1K

also, the same exact bleed fitting comes on the cartech fpr from hahn. it came on my when I got it last december.

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

according to your homemade diagram there, the bleed valve is after the check valve. isnt that opposite when hooking it directly up to the sfmu, ie: bleedvalve--->hose-->check valve.

see:

bobin' and weavin' in traffic. No other place i'd rather be .



^^^^^EVERYTHING HAS TO GO.

Ineed you are correct my man. It works exactly the same way, whether you hook up the check valve before or after the bleed valve. Think about it for a minute


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

just clarifying

bobin' and weavin' in traffic. No other place i'd rather be .



^^^^^EVERYTHING HAS TO GO.

wow. make one for me and i'll send you in the money. i got no time for anything now...

Sure thing man. Let me go buy another set of parts and I'll take a picture of it all to make sure you like what you see. I'll make a run sometime in the next few days.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

Quote:

Originally posted by etx
you could buy the bleed valve for that much. edit: http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MNV-1Kalso, the same exact bleed fitting comes on the cartech fpr from hahn. it came on my when I got it last december.

2006 WW IX MR
2003 BBY EVO VIII (sold)
256.9WHP & 277.9torque
http://s90395832.onlinehome.us/forum//index.php?sid=a70942a7f65043e6c873e12dcd300692

1998 Eclipse RS --show car--

You would also have to buy a check valve, and that hard to find fitting, if you just buy that bleed valve from Clippard. I believe my design is cheaper. Props to DSMRoadster for the Home Depot part numbers.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

I like Eclipse2NR's better, well V's.. Nice shit V. Hey Eclipse, when you get it tell me, I'll send you in the money.

Will do.

1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

Mark, I am proud of you. Even after reading my own instructions I got confused somewhere in there. But your bleed valve is identical to mine. I just hooked mine up differently. That setup should have actually cost 10.50


Intake mani---metal retrictor---SFMU vacuum port/SFMU bleed port-------V's/2ner bleed valive------check valve.

intricatelines.com/ -graphics and vinyls

"Tell them of us and say,
For their tomorrow,
We gave our today."
-- The Kohima Epitaph

Bump. Thought this would be useful for a couple of the newly boosted guys.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

I made one of these and I was cleaning it up to sell along with my SFMU that I don't need any more when I had brain storm. Could a guy/gal "T" one of these into the WG line and use it as a manual boost controler also? I don't know...it's just an idea. It seems like it work to me. Any thoughts?

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

I would like to add, if you are using the sfmu and bleeder screw all you need to do is run a check valve (I'd use a good one, preferably flap type, not a ball, which can be had from the Help! section at an autoparts store) on the vacuum line going to the sfmu and you're done... constant fuel pressure until you see boost, which is what the ECU likes. If you don't use the bleed valve you will need to put a small hole on the sfmu side of the check valve so that it doesn't remain under pressure once off the boost.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician