Okey everyone,

Here is my quick list of my setup

I have

MSD DIS-2
SAFC
MSD In-line High Pressure Fuel Pump
480cc RC injectors *new ones*
New Spark Plugs
Aremotive 1:1 fuel pressure regulator

We set the SAFC to the specs recommended on the SAFC tuning guide on this site. We tinkered with the FPR a little and it started... it ran up to 4000rpm without pushing the throttle or anything the dropped to 2000rpm once we opened the TB it killed the engine.

We noticed a lot of oil in the spark plug wells... we noticed when we took the valve cover off the gaskets that go on top of where the spark plugs go weren't present so i will have to order those in? would that cause vaccume leak? I also have a vennom manifold is there anything special i need to do to it??

I'm really thinking that that areomotive is a peice of shit... and may invest in a SFMU... could that be my problem as well??

Any help is much appericiated...
I really don't want to take this thing to a performance shop they will charge me an arm and a leg.

also we did a compression check they all registerd at 150.

>We noticed a lot of oil in the spark plug wells... we noticed
>when we took the valve cover off the gaskets that go on top of
>where the spark plugs go weren't present so i will have to
>order those in? would that cause vaccume leak?

Yes, definitely, you need a perfect seal on those spark plug gaskets! Order new ones, or RTV the old ones back in. If you have a large vacuum leak, like if you remove the pcv at the manifold, or the spark plug gaskets, it will idle really high just like you described.

Aeromotive 1:1 fpr? Why? What else are you doing fuel wise?
The SFMU is a rising rate, adjustable FPR, you usually need that instead.

But for idling, any FPR will work, make sure the idle fuel pressure is low, between 15-20psi for those large injectors, whatever works best. That's probably why its dying, too much fuel.

You have a big vacuum leak, be it through the PCV, or through some other source. These cars don't idle at 4000RPM for no reason. Look for things behind the throttle plate - injector seals, TB gasket, intake manifold gaskets, vacuum lines (especially the big ones - PCV, brake booster and EVAP purge - they're the only ones of sufficient diameter to cause a idle that high). Also check the obvious things: is the idle air control motor plugged it? Is the vehicle speed sensor plugged in and dry? (VSS provides idle air feedback in this management system)

If all that checks out, start it and let it freak out to 4000RPM. When it steadies out, grab the pcv line and pinch it. If, when you pinch it off, the idle falls all the way down to normal (after the normal sputters and complaints) then you need a new PCV valve, or you still haven't replaced the spark plug well gaskets.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

>You have a big vacuum leak, be it through the PCV, or through
>some other source. These cars don't idle at 4000RPM for no
>reason. Look for things behind the throttle plate - injector
>seals, TB gasket, intake manifold gaskets, vacuum lines
>(especially the big ones - PCV, brake booster and EVAP purge -
>they're the only ones of sufficient diameter to cause a idle
>that high). Also check the obvious things: is the idle air
>control motor plugged it? Is the vehicle speed sensor plugged
>in and dry? (VSS provides idle air feedback in this management
>system)
>
>If all that checks out, start it and let it freak out to
>4000RPM. When it steadies out, grab the pcv line and pinch
>it. If, when you pinch it off, the idle falls all the way
>down to normal (after the normal sputters and complaints) then
>you need a new PCV valve, or you still haven't replaced the
>spark plug well gaskets.
>

Ok i know where the PCV is.... where is the brake booster and the EVAP purge... just so i can kinda trace them down... I'm really thinking its the spark plug wells.. we will try that first i also ordered a SFMU should be here on monday... i think the areomotive was a bad move on my part.

- Phil

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

What model number is the Aeromotive?

I'm looking for one for my 8 injector setup, and you can always sell it on ebay.

I will let you have mine for the cost of shipping.

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

What were you using to turn down your idle fuel pressure? i dont know jack about the aeromotive, so forgive me if it allows you to do this, or if you listed something and i just missed it. i can tell you something for sure though, you cant go wrong with the SFMU, with it, you will hardly have to use your SAFC at all, which is a very good thing.

1999 Black C5
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

>What were you using to turn down your idle fuel pressure? i
>dont know jack about the aeromotive, so forgive me if it
>allows you to do this, or if you listed something and i just
>missed it. i can tell you something for sure though, you cant
>go wrong with the SFMU, with it, you will hardly have to use
>your SAFC at all, which is a very good thing.
>
>1999 Black C5
>1997 Silver RS
>Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
>Eagle Rods
>T3/T4 Turbo
>Custom FMIC
>Greddy Exhaust
>440's
>Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag
>radials, i suck)


Yeah, I ordered it from summit racing should be here monday.. At least we got it started hehe I'm glad it at least started... does anyone know if the SFMU comes with instructions on how to set the idle pressure etc? Any help with final tuning would be great!!

http://www.dsmpride.com

AIM: pgranere21
yahoo: philip_granere

>>We noticed a lot of oil in the spark plug wells... we
>noticed
>>when we took the valve cover off the gaskets that go on top
>of
>>where the spark plugs go weren't present so i will have to
>>order those in? would that cause vaccume leak?
>
>Yes, definitely, you need a perfect seal on those spark plug
>gaskets! Order new ones, or RTV the old ones back in. If you
>have a large vacuum leak, like if you remove the pcv at the
>manifold, or the spark plug gaskets, it will idle really high
>just like you described.
>
>Aeromotive 1:1 fpr? Why? What else are you doing fuel wise?
>The SFMU is a rising rate, adjustable FPR, you usually need
>that instead.
>
>But for idling, any FPR will work, make sure the idle fuel
>pressure is low, between 15-20psi for those large injectors,
>whatever works best. That's probably why its dying, too much
>fuel.


Okey just an update... I got the SFMU on it's way and also a Air/Fuel LED gauge...

Formally Project Solar Eclipse
Now Entering 300ZX Land.

Jim Wolf ECU w/ Boost Jets
Jim Wolf Pop Charger Intake
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs w/ Fully Adjustable Gas Shocks
B&B Exhaust - 3" w/ Dual 4.5 Oval Tips w/ 3" Test Pipes
Konig Five-O 17X8 Rims w/ Polished Lip
Blitz Turbo Timer /w Boost Gauge
Freshly Painted Calipers
Stillen Unorthodox Pulley
Stillen Front Nose / Bumper
Stillen Short Shifter
New RPS Clutch / Pressure Plate / Flywheel - Holds 550 ft lbs of Torque
New Fully-Built 5-Speed Transmission
New Howe Radiator w/ 18" Electric Fan w/ Auto Thermostat Controller
New Yokohama ES100 Tires All Around
New Tension Rods
New Fuel Injectors
New Spark Plugs
New Motor Mounts
New Vacuum Hoses
New Heater Core
New Fuel Filter
New Ignition Control Module
New Hicas (4-Wheel Steering) Lines
New Brake Pads / Brake Lines / Master Cylinder

The aeromtoive regulator is far from being a piece of shit. It is one of best regulators on the market.

agreed ^ but a 1:1 regulator without a properly setup fuel system will not provide enough fuel.. like in his situation...

Bill

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.