ok i am done installing my star turbo kit, my HID's, and my 3000GT brakes. took it for a ride and noticed two things, the air filter is hittin and intercooler pipe and is rattling like crazy, and the second is that i hit 1600 on my EGT way before redline. i bought the kit used and the dude who sold it to me said that i would have get a 12:1 disk for the FPR instead of the 6:1 that is in the the FPR now. should i get the second disk while i am tryin to construct my 8 injector set up?
later
"Z"

>i hit 1600 on my EGT way before redline.

whoa whoa there, be careful....you could be running very very lean


_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

Uberingram> I bow down to the Geo

so should i get another disc for the FPR
later
"Z"

yea how many pounds are you running? whats your idle and static fuel pressures?
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

Uberingram> I bow down to the Geo

so are you running the 6:1?...how many pounds are you running?

i am runnin 6 psi with the FPR that came with the star kit, i think i have a 6:1 disk in there. I don't know what my fuel pressure is, i don't have a gauge.
later
"Z"

Dont run your car hard without knowing all the important information you need to tune it.

You MUST know your fuel pressures....regardless of how much boost you're running you must have your fuel pressure in check... and as far as your EGT's go, my personal preferance is to keep them at 1550 MAX. Even reaching 1500 I don't feel comfortable. Be careful man!

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

i thought a stage 2 kit comes with everything ready to go, how am i suppose to know the fuel pressure!
later
"Z"

>air filter is hittin and intercooler pipe and is rattling

Take a piece rubber or silicone hose and cut off about 1 inch. Slit it down one side and pull apart. Secure it between the filter and piping. That's a temp solution until you replace the air filter or relocate IC piping.

>the second is that i hit 1600 on my EGT way before
>redline.

Don't do it again! You're air/fuel mixture is very lean and can cuase serious engine damage.

>i bought the kit used and the dude who sold it to me
>said that i would have get a 12:1 disk for the FPR instead of
>the 6:1 that is in the the FPR now. should i get the second
>disk while i am tryin to construct my 8 injector set up?
>later
>"Z"

I don't know your setup but if that's what he told you it's probably right.

doug are u runnin te FPR that came with the kit or are u runnin an SFMU, if u are runnin the FPR that came with the kit what disc are u using.
later
"Z"

doug is custom

Bill

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

If your car is basically a stage 2 Star except with a 6:1 disc then you will need the 12:1 FMU disc. That is what stage 2 Star kits normally ship with. Without it and still using the stock FPR and stock injectors you will not get enough fuel under boost. That is why you are hitting 1600*. Say if you have stock FP of 52psi ... with a 12:1 disc at 6 psi or boost you should be seeing ~124psi of fuel which is the safe range by far ... with your 6:1 disc at 6psi of boost you will be seeing ~88psi fuel. That isn't nearly enough fuel.

Even if you are working on the 8-injector setup get a new disc for the vortech FMU. You don't want to risk melting anything by running so lean.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

cool i ordered the 12:1 disc i should see it by Monday.
thanks
later
"Z"

While your waiting, dont kill your car....and get yourself a fuel pressure gauge for sure.

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

>While your waiting, dont kill your car....and get yourself a
>fuel pressure gauge for sure.

DEFINATELY, then post again and we'll hook u up on what fuel pressures to run


_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

Uberingram> I bow down to the Geo

Also, dont just get hooked on running a set amount of fuel pressure. Each car is different, each setup is different. Get the fuel pressure to the ballpark area, and then drive and tune the motor. Look very closely at your EGT's, and A/F ratios. Its always best to go to a dyno and use a wideband o2, but you can get it pretty close just using your EGT gauge. I like to keep it no more than 1550 degrees @ WOT full boost, in 4th gear. Remember to tune in a higer gear. Lower gears make you run a bit richer, since load on the motor is less in lower gears. MOre load nees more fuel.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

what is wide band O2 exactly? and which fuel pressure gaue does everyone agree on the one i want only reads up to 100 psi, and by goin on what people said earlier 100 psi isn't gonna cut it.
later
"Z"

EDIT: nevermind re-read your post.. yeah go buy a 12:1 disk.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
--------
- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

ok i got the disk and i am still runnin really lean, for example in fifth gear at 55 mph at parital throtle my EGT gauge is at like 1400, that is no where near WOT.
what do i do i am gonna take the FMU apart and clean it tommorow and see if that helps any.
later
"Z"