My car has been down since June 1st while i gathered all the necessary parts, etc. Royal PITA because i got the manifold that corbin modified on his first try (i.e. injector bosses being right under where the stock injectors actually sit). It causes the extra rail to conflict on a bunch of things.

So becasue of that, i had a lot of trial and errors. Cut some parts off, reweld some things (thanks MetalJim!!).

Finally, the key to mounting the secondary fuel rail right on the same position as the stock one (but on the other side of the manifold) is the following:

1) You have to cut the ends of the secondary fuel rails up to where the injectors bolt up. Thisi s because if you dont, one end (driver's side) will hit the shifter linkage cable (although it will work, your stickshift will be stiffer than usual hehe). The other end (passenger side) will hit the alternator and there is NO working around it - trust me on this guys. I've cut everything that could possibly be cut (including the alternator housing).

2) Weld a plate to seal the ends

3) Weld a -10an fitting on the passenger's side of the secondary and primary fuel rails. This is to minimize the restriction between the two rails.

4) Cut the alternator bracket to clear the injector #1. You'll need some good mandrel bits or take it to a machine shop to get it cut with a plasma cutter.

If you do that (took me weeks to get it done right), your secondary rail will fit just fine on the stock position.

Also, on the fuel pump connection when using AN fittings, the -6AN fitting works fine for the sending unit. I used a compression fitting from Earls which uses a rubber section that gets compressed and puts pressure on the hard line (return line) going into the tank thus sealing it.

Now here's the scary stuff. I just finished putting it all together and taking her for a ride. On the ride home tonite, noticed a strong stench of fuel and my fuel level gauge started going down REAL fast. I thought F*CK one of the welded fittings must have broken off.

I get home, and notice that the fuel rubber hose I used between the rail and my fuel pressure gauge WASNT a high-pressure hose. It split right in half and fuel went EVERYWHERE onto my engine bay. Luckly it must have not touched the turbo manifold as it was glowing RED from engine running lean for a short period of time. Otherwise, my car could have gone up in flames.

I still dont get it why it didnt ignite...weird.

Oh well. good thing is that my 8-injector is actually finished, i just need to now hook up the extra injectors to the emanage to control them....

Lesson learned: be very careful when dealing with fuel systems. The smallest stupid mistake may cost your car (or your life).
_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Jeez, seems like it was much harder than other people who have done it. Jason has never mentioned any issues about his fuel rail fitment to me.

Always make sure to have high pressure fuel lines....lean isn't good. The reason it didn't ignite is because gasoline needs a spark to ignite, not just heat.

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

Gasoline does not need a spark to ignite. What do you think detonation is?


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Body Components by Aerogear / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic v2 - More at http://home.insightbb.com/~mgalyan/
Mark Galyan - Greenwood, Indiana

>Gasoline does not need a spark to ignite. What do you think
>detonation is?

Detonation is just the devil taht's all...hehe

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

Vinnie only had fitament issues since he went with the very first manifold that Corbin worked over. Since that time, Corbin and I talked of moving the secondary injectors further away from the intake ports thereby eliminating any fitament issues with the alternator or the C/C diaphram. We both did, and since that time, everyone's followed suit and thanks to Corbin's hard work, everyone, including me learned from that initial pioneer effort!

BTW, hey Vinnie, you'll have to keep us updated on that E-manage controlling 4 injectors. Also, any luck on getting the timing control to work out? How about that fitting on the fuel tank assembly feed line, did you do any re-working there?

I'd love to go full SS all the way front to back!

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

:o Thats some scary shit Vinnie. Glad you didn't go up in a blaze of glory.

Other than the leak, thats real good news man. Definately good to hear you've got it all installed. HOPEfully the rest of it'll stay together
Can't wait to see the e-manage managing the secondaries.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.901 @ 88.34mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Thanks to our asog buddy alain, i got the right resistors to make 2 channels of 2 injectors look like 2 channels of 1 injector to the emange (which is what it was designed to do).

It will be similar to the EIC you guys use for the 8injector setup.

Yeah i have full s/s lines front-to-back. I tried a few things for the proper matchup on the fuel pump assembly lines. Fucked it up one time and had to order a new fuel pump assembly (180$ WITH discounts hehe). I just ended up usign regular -6AN for the sending (bolts right up, just make sure to use some thread sealant to make sure) and used an Earls compression -6AN fitting for a 7/16" hard tube line. Then i cut a small piece of rubber hose that fits the size of the return line on the fuel pump assembly, and use it instead of the 7/16" hose that comes with the Earls fitting.

Then when you tighten that fitting down, the hose is compressed longways, and it expands sideways against the fitting and the stock return hardline. No cutting needed =)

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

Now don't say I didn't warn you about that manifold...heh heh. Glad you got it all installed though. I think you are very lucky that you didn't catch fire. The boost gods were smiling on you that day. I'm interested to hear how the E-manage works for this application.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Is it cheaper and easier tunning to have the e-management for 8 injector setup?

Trust me - there is nothing cheaper about running the emanage =) Its a great piggy back system but it will run you at least 300-400 before you are really satisfied hehe im already about 1g deep into it and i'm just now getting to the setup that i like (profec e-01, etc).

Anyways - yeah corbin you did warn me and i appreciate it. But i figured there HAD to be a way to use it. And there was (unfortunately i was the guinnea pig hehe).

I have not yet hooked up the 4 additional injectors to the emanage due to needing an extra inj. harness (*HINT HINT folks*).

Trust me on this one thing:

Using the emanage to control injector dutycycle on the stock injectors is a BITCH due to the fact of how the emanage allows you to control duty cycle - which is:

StockDutyCycle + <%EmanageDutyCycleAdjustment * StockDutycycle>

So for example, lets say your StockDutyCycle is 10, and you want to add 20% more duty cycle through the emanage control, then:

10 + <.20 * 10> = 12

Now this sounds great but, try tuning your injector duty cycle when your stock ECU changes the StockDutyCycle based on a multitude of variables (throttle position, air temp, intake pressure, etc).

Thus, i cannot wait to control the additional 4 injectors which will NOT vary based on the stock ecu - I set it to 20 dutycycle, and that's what it will stay at hehe.

Anyways, that's my update.

v.