If some of you were following my post, then you knew the fiasco I had to go through just to get the right set-up. First of I would like to thank ExtremeRS and NitrousEclipse for they helped me the most. All those threads just to find out that I didn't have the proper bleeder valve that I needed. Thank you Extreme! And Nitrous thanks for telling me about the aluminum pipe that I didn't install, because no one told me about it, but you. Ok to my point. I didn't feel like paying 25 bucks for a little bleeder valve. So a very special thanks goes to mah dawg REMY! You mah boy B! He said those two special words to me....Home Depot. Only 10.25 it cost me. It's bulky and I'll get pics up. It is very ghetto fabolous, but oracle, idedout, Remy and Keg Killa all ready knows that. Here is what I did. I kept the HRC/cartech needle nose on the sfmu, but I hooked the other end up to my custom bleeder valve. Follow me on this and be very creative. Go to the NPT area and find the Watts brand. Part numbers A-139 ice-maker splice tee, A-734 fip reducing coupling, A-85 ID house barb to mip adapter. A139 is a two part tee. You will only use the tee with the valve adjustment on it. The bigger tee, is a useless part. Hook up A139 to A734 and then connect the A85. That is your complete bleeder valve. The A85 part will hook up to the needle nose hose barb that you'd put into the bleeder port. Now the actual check valve will will hook up to the other part on the bleeder valve. You'll just need to slide your silicon tube over a brass tube that comes off the tee. I'll try and get pictures. It's bulky, it'll look good if set up right and it's a lot cheaper. SFMU is awesome.

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