when i put the check valve on the billet regulator with the long black part in the rubber hose, my boost is at a full 5psi and my boost vac is at 10, but the directions say the long black part should stick out, but when i do this, I only boost at 4psi, and the vac is 20, and my fuel pressure keeps going up after driving it past the 45-55psi at about 80psi....whats the problem with this? do any of you guys with the stage 1 hrc have the same problem?

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

vac. should be at 18 at idle, and you should be at about 80 psi of fuel pressure for a stage I at 5 psi...

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

but dont the directions say fuel pressure should be at 45-55psi?

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

yea, your idle pressure should be at about that. @ 5psi of boost you should be at about 80 of fuel pressure.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

my bad, but yeah thats what i was talking about...the idle pressure! when the check valve's long black stem is out as instructions state, my idle pressure goes up after driving, and when i turn my car on! and i only boost at 4psi, but when i reverse the check valve with the black stem inside..i boost fine, and my idle pressure is fine

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

yea, with the hrc fmu, youll have to adjust your idle fuel pressure every time you start the car...

i would get the vortech sfmu, it cleans up all the fuel pressure issues.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

well, what about the check valve? does it matter which side i insert into the rubber tube coming out of the billet regulator? the way the directions say to put it...gives me only 4 psi of boost, but when i revers it (black part of check valve in) i get the full 5psi of boost.

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

im confused as to what you are talking about. the little brass adjustment screw piece can only fit in the regulator one way. and off from that brass fitting is a little barb that a small hose and valve connect to.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

i'm talking about the valve that connects to the hose

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

I cant remember for sure without looking, but just take the valve, and blow through it. Whichever end you can blow though, is the end that connects to the hose. Basically, this valve works by bleeding off air pressure from the FMU under boost, through the bleed valve, and since that check valve is a one way valve, it wont let vacuum leak through it when the motor is not in boost. So you want to let air go out the check valve, but not back into it. This make sense?

EDIT: Ok, checked my car, and the WHITE part of the check valve connects to the vac hose end, from the bleed valve of the FMU. You should be able to blow through the white end, and then not be able to blow through the black end

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

but when i put the white part in the hose..i lose boost, i can only boost at 4psi, but when the black part is in the hose, i boost at the full 5psi

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

>but when i put the white part in the hose..i lose boost, i
>can only boost at 4psi, but when the black part is in the
>hose, i boost at the full 5psi

That shouldnt happen. Lets just be sure you have everything right: You have the brass bleed valve on the FMU right? The small hose barb that is on the bleed valve has the short piece of vac hose, then the white part of the check valve connects to that end of the hose? If you dont have the bleed valve screwed into the FPR, then that could be why, if you just have a barb screwed into the FPR, then the check valve...just making sure here.. The bleed valve is brass, and screws into the side of the fuel pressure regulator top lid. It has a small adjustment screw on the end of the valve. Then on the side of the valve, there is a small hose barb that the short piece of vac line is on, then at the end of that, goes the black/white check valve with the white end in the hose. I'll bet you dont have the bleed valve screwed into the regulator, and its causeing a big vac leak under non boost conditons, and a boost leak at under boost. The bleed valve will limit all of those leaks, because it restricts most of that pressure loss...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

ok the little brass bleede valve is that little penny colored thingy that has a hole at the end where the hose goes connected to right? i checked the brass bleed valve that has a little adjustment screw at the end where it's screwed in, its there. i have the little rubber hose at the end of it with the check valve in it with the white part in...but same problem, as soon as i reverse it and put the black plastic part in, boost goes back to 5psi

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

Here is a pic of my old cartach FPR and bleed valve. The bleed valave is the brass thing there that is on top of the regulator (dont mind the greyish JB weld on it). From that little hose barb on the side of the valve, goes the short piece of vac line, and at the end of that line, the vacuum check valve, with white end in the hose. Is this what you have?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

it seems that my fpr only has the little hose barb(it doesnt have that bleed valve on top of it), but it does have a knob that looks like the bleed valve on the other side of the FPR that does turn. could it be that mine is different? Should i try turning that knob?

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

>
>it seems that my fpr only has the little hose barb(it doesnt
>have that bleed valve on top of it), but it does have a knob
>that looks like the bleed valve on the other side of the FPR
>that does turn. could it be that mine is different? Should i
>try turning that knob?

Your're bleed valve should look exactly like the pic. The other hose barb by itself on the regulator is where you connect a vac line to the intake manifold, you should have to tee it off of one of your intake mani vac lines. Then, on the other side of the FPR, should be the bleed valve, then that small barb off of the bleed valve, and the short vac hose connecting too the bleed valve barb, with the check valve on the end of that. You should start out with the adjustment knob on the bleed valve, with about one to two turns out from closed position. So, just close the screw off until it stops, then open it back up one to two turns, then test drive at WOT for your required boosted fuel pressures. If you have too much fuel pressure, open up that bleed valve screw about half turn at a time, until its right. If you have too little fuel pressure, close off the bleed valve screw half turn at a time until its right.

The regulator works by raising fuel pressure with boost pressure. The vac line comeing from the intake mani to the regulator sees vacuum and boost pressure. When boost is applied to the regulator, it makes the regulator close off more of the bypassed fuel flow to the tank from the return line, and this causes the fuel pressure in the fuel rail to go up. The regulator is basically a fuel bleeder, one that controls the amount of fuel flow and pressure that is let by to go back to the gas tank. Now, the bleed valve is basically a small air bleeder. The adjustment screw on the valve lets more or less air through it, depending on how open or closed it is. When its more closed, this cuts off any boost pressure loss through the bleed valve. If you open up the bleed valve, this lets some of the boosted air pressure that is coming into it from the intake mani, to go out and be "bled off", so that it lowers your fuel pressure, since you are makeing the regulator see less air pressure.. Hope this makes sence to how this regulator works, to help you find your problem.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

the side that does not have the adjustment screw is where you hook up the vacume signal line to the intake manifold. The side with the adjustment screw is where you put the short piece of vac line and the white side of the check valve.

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

ok, my regulator is very different from the pic, my fpr doesnt point out in the middle, just a little and has the same screw and stuff, i do have two hose barbs..one on each side, one hose runs to a tee and the other has the hose with the check valve, and between the two barbs on the side of the fpr there is the little turning knob like the one thats sits top of your barb on the pic. i played with it and i'm now boosting at the full psi like i should with the check valve in place like it should be. i wish i had a scanner to show you my fp . But thanks a lot to everyone who helped out with this, you guys have really been helpful. thnks agai

p.s.
i hope im not just missing a part on my fpr!!

SoCal DSM
1996 RS-T: Under Construction
1999 GS AE: New daily driver
"USING NO WAY AS A WAY, HAVING NO LIMITATION AS A LIMITATION"--BRUCE LEE

man, if you can find a way, anyway, to get a pic of that up on here, that would be very helpful..but if ya got it working? just be sure to watch your fuel pressure at full boost

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)