Welcome to the 2GNT Forum!
Home Site Background Info & Specs Mods & Tech Info CAPS Part Reviews Donate 2GNT Stickers
Search Printer-friendly copy 0 Users in Chat
Top 2GNT Technical Turbo/Nitrous Tech topic #49978
View in linear mode

Subject: "Removing the fuel rail..." Previous topic | Next topic
neovbJun-05-03 11:34 AM
Old School 2GNTer
466 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#49978, "Removing the fuel rail..."


          

Ive searched and read a couple of posts. I know that you have to remove the two 13mm bolts behind the fuel rail that hold it into the intake manifold. Weve done basically everything possible short of removing the upper intake manifold and we cant reach the bolts. Are there any tricks or something to get to the bolts? Do we have to remove the cruise control box to reach the passenger side bolt? Its a 97 car. Thanks.

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Replies to this topic

TeamMichael_97RSJun-05-03 11:46 AM
Donating 2GNT member
5866 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#49979, "RE: Removing the fuel rail..."
In response to Reply # 0


          

Only way I know of is to pull the upper manifold. I have to do this myself. It sucks, not because it's hard, just because it's right there, you can see it and can't get to it.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

    
mkerleyJun-05-03 03:41 PM
Old School 2GNTer
944 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#49993, "RE: Removing the fuel rail..."
In response to Reply # 1




          

I've never removed the manifold. I do remove the valve cover though. put the rachet back into the center of the "C" shape that the manifold makes and you should be able to reach the bolts. A set of those racheting box wrenches really helps too, but they're not necessary.


99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

        
ModeratorCorbinJun-06-03 03:27 AM
Donating 2GNT member
2552 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#50025, "RE: Removing the fuel rail..."
In response to Reply # 2


          

If you remove the coil pack, unclip the injector connectors, and pull out the injector wiring harness...its pretty easy to get everything out. You will need a 1/4" drive 13 mm ratchet to squeeze in behind the rail. You'll have to do most of the work with the tips of your fingers, but it'll come out. You can also pull the upper manifold, but you risk damaging the manifold gasket. I've done it both ways. I prefer not to remove the manifold (its not bad once you figure it out).

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

            
whodatt1Jun-06-03 04:32 AM
Donating 2GNT member
2531 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#50027, "RE: Removing the fuel rail..."
In response to Reply # 3




          

yeah have had to do it several times.. just remove the wire harness for the injectors and you should be able to squeze your fingers in there and get those bolts out.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
--------
- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Top 2GNT Technical Turbo/Nitrous Tech topic #49978 Previous topic | Next topic
Powered by DCForum+ Version 2.2
Copyright 1997-2005 DCScripts.com, Copyright 2005-2026 2gnt.com
Generated in 0.054 seconds, executing 22 queries.