Right now I have the HRC stage 2 with fmic, greddy type s bov, missing link, vortech s-fmu, plugs, wires, 2.5" hi-flow cat, 3" thermal exhaust, turbo timer, and the necessary gauges.

I want to upgrade to atleast a stage 3. What all should I get? I know I have to get a bottom end kit and injectors. Is it ok to get the standard bore instead of the .20 over? What size injectors? Should I get a clutch? Brand? Stage? Anything else I should look into getting? Thanks.

Why do you want to get standard bore pistons instead of .020 over?? If your cylinder walls are still in great shape, you *could* go with standard bore pistons, buy you'll still have to get the cylinders honed and cross-hatched anyway, so you might as well bore them to make sure they are okay.

I think most stage 3 guys have 415cc or 440cc injectors. I'm running 415cc injectors, S-FMU, and SAFC for small adjustments. You can get by without the SAFC though.

I have the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, which everyone on this board says is junk, but I haven't had any problems with it. I've had it for almost a year and run as much as 15psi on it. But I think the general opinion on the board is that the Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch is the best for high boost applications.

You might also want to think about replacing little things while you have the engine out, like all top end seals and gaskets and the water pump.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6

.020 all the way unlesss it needs to go bigger...

the CFDF isn't the greatest clutch id spend the money on something else CM hasn't been on the top of my list looking at how many people smoke their stage 4's so quickly

might as well get a new water pump, timing belt and tensioner...

u can coat the pistons moly skirts and wrist pin ceramic coat the top etc...

Bill

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

yeah, what everyone else said. you definately want to get oversized pistons to make sure that you get a good seal. i have the 415 cc/min injectors too and i have the 2.72" disk in the S-FMU along with the standard silver spring. seems to work better than the "hard" spring that everyone else uses, at least for me. i have a little more than a turn and a half or so taken out of the needle valve on the S-FMU, and my idle pressure is around 13-14 psi of fuel. yeah, it's really low, but it works. static is about 25 psi, and i'm guessing that my fuel pressure at 1 bar is about 75-80 psi of fuel. haven't really looked at it.

hmmm, it seems to me that ALL clutches suck. i've heard bad things about the CFDF, the CM stage 4, and the spec stage 3. i guess you'll have to pick your posion there. personally, my stock clutch STILL "grabs" at ~14 psi, which is pretty friggin weird. well, i'm lying. yesterday it slipped pretty bad on the highway in 5th gear at 14 psi which was kind of upsetting. the stock clutch doesn't catch like my friend's ACT in his twin-turbo Z, but whatever. i have to drop it in pretty hard to get it to catch under boost, but once it's engaged it holds it pretty well. i hear that the stock clutch goes after about a week at 1 bar, so far it's been about 4 days. i'm really pushing my luck.

you're lucky that you already have a front mount intercooler. wish i had one... if i save up for one i could have one inside a month.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)