After a while of thinking about it, I decided that I could eff up the manifold just as easily at home as I could elsewhere with a drill press...so I decided to go ahead and build a rig for it.

I screwed the manifold in place at an appropriate angle. I also screwed a driver platform in place. I had already marked the manifold for injector placement, but the important markings are on the platform. I drew a line at each injector. Then I used a foot long 1/4" drill extention and a 5/8" countersink bit to make the holes. I held the extention in place with wood screws in such a way so that it couldn't really move too much - except for spinning and pushing in and out(like a drill press). The extention did get a little flimsy so I just used my hand(with a glove on) to guide the bit straight. The countersink bit didn't like to go all the way through on the first pass so I ended up having to repeatedly remove the top board of the platform, drill a hole with a real bit, replace the platform and finish the 5/8" hole. I used 2 large drill bits on either end as dowels so that I would always replace the top board in the right spot after drilling the pilot hole. It was a little involved, but setting up the rig is really what took the longest time. The first hole probably took me about an hour - cause I had to figure out the top board trick to drill the pilot. After that, the last 3 holes took about 10 minutes each start to finish.







It came out pretty much perfect. The injector bosses all lined up at a really good angle - about 22 degrees. I cut the shorter bosses(cyl 2 & 3) to end at the same point in the manifold. I didn't want any extra boss tubing sticking out into the manifold basically. Then I glued it all in with 2 ton clear epoxy.







There were 2 fittings and a plug to weld on to each rail. Corbin told me that his guy had a bitch of a time getting a good weld on with this brass coating on the rail...so I scratched it off from the weld areas. I'm just learing to weld, but I was able to get some good welds on it that way. I used -6 AN fittings for the primary inlet and secondary outlet, -8 AN fittings for the primary outlet and the secondary inlet, and a couple of bolt heads to plug the original 6mm fuel inlets.



I made a bracket for the secondary rail out of a piece of 22 gauge aluminum plate.



I used -8 AN(1/2") tubing to tie the rails together. You'll notice they're tied on the drivers side. I'm going to run the main feed to the primary rail's passenger side. The secondary rail outlet will feed the FPR.



Clearance might be an issue with the current rail tie, but I can make another or get some 90degree fittings to make it real straight....but I think it came out allright.










95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

VERY Nice and VERY Clean. That looks down right great. Wish I could do stuff like that.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

dude, is that stock? because it sure looks like it would have came from the factory like that, well minus the colored piping.


edit:

i think you might have clearance issues with the washer fluid reservoir, that is if you still have it in.

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC

Excellent job man! I love the alterations done to the fuel rails.

Outstanding

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Thanks guys. Yeah Jason, the welds came out great. Like I said, I'm just learning to weld. They looked like hell till I cleaned them up a bit, but they look ok now.




95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

wow jim, just wow

Damn man I think yours came out better than the one the machiene shop built me.....lol Could you come show him how to fix mine?

I edited to the wiki!

Good job dude...shows you can accomplish alot with minimal tools

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

WRITE UP
WRITE UP
WRITE UP

You are the creame of the crop of us backyard mechanics

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I got kicked out after I refused to go Cow tiping) - Hehehe you know who this is for

it looks good, i dont think your going to fit very well though..that blue piece is going to be very tight in there..i had to buy 2 45 degree earls pieces that made things fit a lot better...hell i dropped like 70 dollars on those damn fittings....what size are those secondaries?

400whp or bust.

Yeah, I haven't fit it in there yet. Actually I figured that I would just give it a shot without angled fittings and see what I could come up with before buying some angled fittings. It looks like it'll be close, probably too close. So far I've spend around $220 just on aluminum lines and fittings, but I'm building new fuel lines all the way - 3/8" main and return lines. I've got a some orings and a plug to buy, so I'll probably just get some 45s with them.

The secondaries are brand new Accell 310s(30 pounders).

I'm not sure about doing a formal writeup, but a couple of pics and a little more about how I drilled for the injectors

First and foremost you have to have a flat working surface. A wood workbench is good, but if it's battlescared(like mine) then you'll want to find a nice piece of plywood as a base. Screw it into the workbench. Get some 2x4s and 1x4s and whatever scrap you've got lying around in the wood workshop(yes I have 2 workshops) to prop the manifold at a good angle AND to build a nice platform that gets the holes at a nice height on the manifold. This is mostly eyeball work. You can line the platform up with the manifold by eyeballing the forward edge of the platform with the bottom edge of the cyl-head flange - that gets the board straight with the manifold. Eyeball in a good injector angle. Make sure you leave enough room between the platform and the manifold to work with the extention/bit. Make sure that the injectors centers will be drilled at the correct plane.





This step is very important. Do NOT use markings on the manifold as a guide of where to drill. Use ONE to find a good spot to start marking the platform. Once you have one injector centered, draw a line across the top platform board with a square. Then put the rail on the platform and mark out all of the other injector locations FROM THE RAIL, then draw lines for them with a square. Just using markings from the manifold will not be as accurate as marking the platform based on the rail - trust me, it's very difficult to mark a manifold as wavy as ours with the correct injector centers. After you're done marking for all of the injectors, line up the drill extention and make sure that you aren't headed for the side of the runner or anything like that - basically make sure the marks look ok.



As I said before I used a 5/8" countersink bit. This is the absolute shortest bit you can get. I wanted to keep it as short as possible to keep the distance between the edge of the platform and the manifold as short as possible. One problem with a countersink bit is that it doesn't want to drive like a normal bit, so you have to actually drill a pilot hole with a normal bit. I wanted to get the pilot drilled as level to the injector plane as possible but the top board of the platform was in the way. I couldnt use the extention to drill the pilot holes for 2 reasons. First I didn't have a 1/4" drill bit - the extention would hold a 1/4" bit perfectly so it doesn't wobble. Secondly, even if I did have a 1/4" bit, the head on the extention would bang into the platform because generally speaking - normal bits are longer than countersink bits. Thats where the dowels came in. I used 2 different sized drill bits(big ones) as dowels so that I could remove the top board, drill the pilot, and then replace the top board in exactly the same spot. Remember to check injector boss fitment before moving onto drilling the next hole.







Like I said, the bracket was just a piece of aluminum plate. I think that its important that its a thick gauge metal, mine is 10 gauge. It had to be narrow enough to fit between runners 2 & 3. So at that point I cut it straight, then I cut some curves outward to where it wanted to meet the rail bracket fittings. After I had it all cut, I basically hammered it into submission on my vise. First I beat the rail angle - it only needed a little angle. Then I drilled the fixture hole and beat in that angle. After attaching and removing it to and from the manifold, several times, with beatings in the interem, it finally was beat into place. Then I just marked and drilled the rail holes. It holds the rail VERY securely.



One benefit of mounting the rail in this direction is that you can use factory clips to secure the harness.




95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Wow man... Thats great work... Hopefully your fuel system should be working by the meet... And possible the turbo haha. That would be killer. Glad to see you put so much thought into this project

Boca Raton, Florida
95 Eclipse GS- sold
99 Eclipse GSX- 386awhp
98 Eclipse GS- sold
92 Prelude

Great job man! Now get that turbo on and use it

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I just made what will hopefully be the last order for fuel system parts. A couple of the parts are backordered till mid-June, which kind of sucks cause I won't have it together for Allentown.

I'll have the turbo on soon enough. The plan has once again taken a turn for the better or worse - I decided to rebuild first. Worse cause it'll be longer till I get the turbo in. Better cause I'll be boosting on forged internals with good compression(my rings are shitty right now). Trying to hook up with a block right now so I can bore it out to 2.1L with less downtime. Boosting on a 10.5CR 2.1L...uh huh.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

wow, that looks really really good jim. im impressed!

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

got damn, that looks real good, how long did it take, whats your plans for the future? how much boost we talking!!!??
DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

Thanks guys.

It probably took longer to think about than to actually do. I've been plotting and planning a turbo system for so long now it hurts. But with this manifold specifically: I spent about 20-25 hours port matching, porting and polishing it. I spent about 6 hours hemming and hawing over how to build the boss drilling rig. I spent about 2 hours actually drilling and gluing in the bosses. I spent about an hour figuring out and building the secondary rail bracket. Bascically, I've spent alot of time with this manifold.

As far as future plans are concerned
1) install the fuel system. That'll include this manifold, an 034 EFI, Aeromotive regulator, 3/8" aluminum fuel lines(feed and return), and a laptop(hidden in glovebox).
2) rebuild the motor. Like I said before, this is a recent decision that my wife actually helped me make. I think it would just be irresponsable for me to boost on my already shitty rings. I haven't priced this out yet.
3) build the IC piping. Already priced and designed. All mandrel, custom welded piping. Already have the IC(1g SMIC) installed. Already have purchased a TurboXS RFL.
4) build the exhaust. Already priced and designed. All mandrel, 3" custom welded piping - from the turbine outlet flange to the tip. Includes high flow cat and a nice chrome tip.
5) install the gauges. Boost, EGT, af, fuel pressure, oil pressrure.
6) install the turbo. Already priced and designed oil and coolant lines. Already have the turbo(14b) & exhaust manifold.
7) BOOST!!!!!!

Thats the short list. I'll probably build the IC piping, exhaust, and install the turbo in one big shebang...but I have to rebuild the motor first. I'll install the gauges as soon as I get them. After I get this turbo system installed, I already know my first upgrade for it is going to be a 20g, but thats probably down the road a bit - maybe next year. I'd like to upgrade the ignition at some point, but it's going to be after I can figure out how to tune with the stock ignition first.

As far as how much boost...thats not a fair question. I have no idea - except to say as much as possible. I'll run it on pump gas and turn it up till it knocks then turn it back a smidge. Then I'll run it on 10:1 pump/toluene and turn it up till it knocks then turn it back a smidge. Then I'll run it on 5:1 pump/toluene....4:1, etc. UNTIL I hit a limit or 25psi - whichever comes first. I think I'l hit a limit first because I'll be running 10.5:1 CR pistons, but I'm hoping that it'll be at least 20psi. I'm pretty sure I'll be making friends with the sales people at the local chemical supply - $22 for 10 gallons of toluene.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Nice work, man. Looks good. Bet it felt good to see all your hard work come together so easily.

1996 Eclipse GS *Tanabe Racing Medallion exhaust-Iceman intake-Greddy Headers-Top Fuel UDP-Front strut tower brace-MSD 8.5mm wires-NGK plugs-ES mm inserts-APEX Short shifter-Tenzo 1.5" lowering springs-F&R crossed drilled/slotted rotors-Tokico Blues