ok this may get long so bear with me. i finally got around to working on my car today to see if i could fix it. i replaced the spark plugs and then i noticed what the problem was...the last time i took it into the shop to get the head gasket replaced the mechanic reversed the hoses on the "IN" and "OUT" ports of the HRC fuel pressure regulator when he reinstalled everything. so basically no fuel was getting to the motor under boost. so i resolved that problem and now the car runs perfectly, no bad idle, no nothing. (just imagine how bad it was running before with the FPR trying to pull fuel from the rail and deliver it to the tank). so i hooked all the fuel-carrying hoses back up correctly and set the idle pressure to 45psi. then i went out for the test run again to set the boost-dependent pressure correctly. well, the gauge i have doesnt move when boosting, but i believe the FPR is delivering fuel. (because i drove it this way for 2 months and didnt blow the motor up) the reason i think this is that i noticed that all of the vacuum hoses are reinstalled incorrectly as well. the vacuum hose on the right side of the FPR (the one opposite the bleeder valve) isnt hooked up to anything!?! i assume this is the hose that send pressure info to the gauge when boosting? either way i grabbed the HRC manual and realized that several of the vacuum hoses are wrong. included below is a diagram of how the hoses are connected on my car...so if you grab your HRC manual you will see the other page i have included with the correct hose placement shown. the only problem is that the HRC manual doesnt even include information on two of the hoses. the one that goes to the stock fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, and the other hose goes somewhere under the manifold, i cant see where. (keep in mind, only 95 eclipse owners will be able to relate to this because of the location of our stock FPRs). so if anyone can take a look at my diagram and tell me where to move these two hoses that arent listed in the manual i would appreciate it. and i do realize that the hoses that are listed in the manual are already incorrectly installed (for example, the hose going to the BOV is supposed to come off of the RIGHT SIDE post on the manifold plenum...mine is attached to a tee that didnt even come with my turbo kit which is then attached to the CENTER post on the manifold plenum. so does all of the hose connections here go to the manifold plenum eventually? if so, i can just connect the hose thats disconnected now to the open post on the left side of the plenum???

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1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

update - i went and attached the loose hose to the left post on the plenum, it made a leaky noise...so that idea didnt work, when i test drove it, the gauge still read idle pressure - 55psi

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

dude. the hose vacuum line you got on the fpr which you says connects to nothing, connects to the intake manifold vacuum port on the back. im a bit confused on the line which goes from the back of the intake manifold (vacuum) to the fuel rail?? no line from the manifold connects to the fuel rail direct.
so check it out.
the vacuum line from the fpr which you say is connected to nothing, goes to the back of the intake manifold. and the vacuum line from the intake manifold which you say connects to the fuel rail is incorrect.
also check your compression dude..
crazy
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

>so, i can just connect the hose thats
>disconnected now to the open post on the left side of the
>plenum???

yes.

Also, you do not need to run a line to the stock fpr on the side of the fuel rail. That fpr should have been disabled during the initial install, because the Cartech takes over its job.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

i thought the cartech worked in conjunction with the stock FPR...hence the reason the cartech is boost-dependent...it only adds fuel under boost. also the reason my car was getting fuel on idle with the cartech connected wrong. if the cartech eliminated the use of the stock FPR, when i had the cartech incorrectly installed there would be no fuel getting to the rail and the car wouldnt have started, but it did. also, pnoymahal, it will be different on your car because on your car there is no FPR on the end of your fuel rail...its in the rear next to your tank, my car is a 95, the regulator and entire fuel system is configured differently, so keep that in mind

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

you need to disconect the hose to the stock fpr. I also have a 95

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC

ok, so can you explain how having it connected at the same time affects the cartech's functionality? im very curious. also, does the cartech not work in conjunction WITH the stock FPR like i was told?
thanks for the advice guys

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

i really didn't read your entire problem with your car but........

my having the stock fpr hooked up it will (i think) bring your base fuel pressure down. By having it unhooked the fpr thinks it at WOT (0 manifold pressure, no negative, or positive, actually maybe postive manifold pressure screws the fpr up) so it will stay at 55 psi (i think, that is where our base fuel pressure comes into play.) If it was hooked up then i believe the stock fuel pressure would always be dropped to what ever the stock fpr is setup to be.

The cartech is just like any other rising rate fuel pressure regulator but it is comletly adjustable (but yet a piece of shit). You could remove your stock fpr and still it will work perfectly fine. That is why you set base/idle fuel pressure with the middle screw (can't remember if its the middle or side one) and adujust fuel pressure under boost with the other one.

I'm not saying all this is completly right, but this is how i believe it to work.


also, by not having a vaccum hosed hooked up to the cartech, it doesn't know to add more fuel pressure. It relies on positive maniflold pressure to increase the fuel. Every psi or so adds 10 psi or fuel (just an example).

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC

If you leave the stock FPR working than it will try to bleed off the extra fuel pressure the Cartech is making. The stock FPR will try to limit the FP to what it is stock. You can't leave the stock FPR on a 96-99 car either for the same reason. The only time you do is if you are using the Vortech FMU (not SFMU) because it ONLY has a boost riser and no idle/static control.

awesome guys, thanks a bunch. so should i just leave the vacuum port on the stock FPR open to air? or should i plug it up? and if anyone else notices any other problems with my setup let me know...i will fix this tomorrow morning and tackle the next problems on the list, cleaning off the pollen paint job, and figuring out why my third battery keeps dying on me.

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

just leave the fpr open to air

http://home.bendcable.com/optimuspeterson <<<<HRC Stage 2 and Star Instructions
95 Eclipse - SOLD | 93 BMW 318is - SOLD | 2000 S-10 Extreme on 20's - SOLD
93 Toyota/shaved/bagged/body dropped - SOLD | 97 GSX - SOLD
2006 Scion tC