Well, for the longest time I have been able to boost without any type of FCD and I've never gotten fuel cut. Recently, my car has began fuel cutting under boost.....and the car will hesitate and jerk. However today I had a major fuel cut, the car stops in it's tracks, my rpm's went to 0, and my power steering was gone. I coasted thecar to a stop, it completely shut down. I then Turned the key out, and resarted it...ran fine...popped the hood to see if my belts were still on (since I lost my power steering) but everything was in check. Needless to say I ordered a missing link this afternoon. Just want to make sure that the missing link will solve my problems...think fuel cut could hurt my car badly? It sure isn't good for it...but no major damage eh?

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

so you don't have the fcd already installed that came with the kit?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

Right. I havn't need it for 6,000 Turbo miles. I could hit 4.995 Volts and would never fuel cut. Only now am I having problems...missing link should be here soon and hopefully it will work out fine.

But for my car to completely shut down from fuel cut...what's up with that? I had no power steering and my rpms dropped to zero...I rolled up to the side of the road...key turned over...but nothing. Took key out...Started it up, and it's all good...just can't boost until I get that Missing link.

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

it would be interesting to take apart HRC's "mystery box" sometime and copy the layout in order to make a homemade voltage clamp. i'd trust something that soldered and designed by me a lot more than HRC's solution which always seems to tweak.

anyone ever seen a schemeatic? taken apart the HRC thing? i know it's not just a resistor or something, it has different resistance depending on the polarity of how you connect it to an ohm meter.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

yeah, mabye i should have looked inside that fcd before i tossed it out the window on the freeway. Who cares whats in it, whatever it is it just dosent work. Never worked right for me. Just get a missing link or e-manage. I would have liked to pissed on the fcd and sent it back to hann. thier tech assured me for months that it was not broken, when it was broken from day 1!

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

I'm sure its just a simple voltage clamp. I don't remember exactly how they are built, but its simple resistor, capacitor, trimmer stuff. Its all sealed in epoxy though...so you can't see what it is (I opened one up). I think the ML is a more appropriate solution.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

IMO, i still believe that putting boost pressure on our map's isnt good, obviously for the fuel cut reasons, but also, for a physical reason. I just dont think our maps can take the actual pressure,and can be damaged by boost. I cant prove it, but i'm sure its not good to put boost pressure on them. The ML will solve both issues. If you have the cash, you may want to pick up a new MAP after you put in the ML, just to be on the safe side, and be done with it.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

How much for a new MAP sensor, and where would you suggest I pick one up. Certainly not the dealership, right?

______________________________

Ryan
IRyanHester@Hotmail.com

'03 Mazda 6s

>How much for a new MAP sensor, and where would you suggest I
>pick one up. Certainly not the dealership, right?

I think it was around $50 at Autozone.

You don't need a new MAP Ryan.

Anyone who runs with a voltage clamp has their MAP exposed to boost, and I've yet to hear an instance of MAP failure due to boost. I do agree with Matt, though, that long term exposure may eventually be problematic, you haven't had your long enough to really even consider it being an issue.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

>I've yet to hear an instance of MAP failure due to
>boost.

Me either. My OEM, 95 MAP has been fine, and i run no manner of FCD at all. I don't beleive that pressures beyond the readable range of a MAP sensor can physically damage them. While i've done no real research on it, the difference between a one, two, or three bar MAP sensor probably isn't in construction, simply the resolution of its pressure reading. As far as i know, MAP sensors aren't mechanical devices.

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/