After much decision making, i have decided to go with a Nitrous Express System until i can afford to get my engine built for a turbo. i only want to run a small shot 40 or 50 max. it is a wet kit so it should be ok on the stock engine. should i upgrade to a Walbro fuel pump just to be sure? if it isnt totally needed i can do without. i wont be using the NO2 much, i only go to the track once a month or so cause its so far away, and there arent street races around here. im going to get the purge kit also(for looks. i really only want it for the rare case when i ricer Civic or Integra wants some. thanks for any opinions.
1997 Eclipse AEM CAI Greddy Evo Exhaust Groundcontrol coils/Tokico Shocks AFX Underdrive Pulley
Yeah, i'm pretty much looking for the same thing here. Another thing that still puzzles me is the dry vs. wet thing. why does it matter where the nitrous goes in at??? does it have something to do with the nitrous mixing with the fuel?? to me it seems it would be the same. or maybe the dry setup lets less nitrous in. i don't see it being any safer cause it seems the same amount of nitrous is going in both systems and no greater amount of fuel is added in either setup so what would make the wet better?? also would running a higher octane help in preventing detenation with a nitrous setup like a turbo setup and i heard you need to retard your ignition?? timing but doesn't the ecu advance it when you add a higher octane???
I wouldn't get a fuel pump for a 50hp shot, wait until you get the turbo kit where its included. Well the argument against wet kits are that modern fuel injected intake manifolds aren't designed to flow fuel just air only (hence dry). On some applications or if the nozzle is poorly designed its possible for the fuel to drop out of the nitrous/fuel mixture and puddle in the intake manifold causing a lean condition or even backfire into the intake track (and yes it happens with incompatibility or poorly jetted or placed nozzle not just some made up sh*t). The bigger the shot the more likely pooling is to happen (which is why most dont recommend more than 75hp shot or so although NX recommends up to 150hp becuase of their self proclaimed superior nozzle).
The argument against a dry kit isn't nearly as strong in my oppinion. Dry kits only shoot nitrous in the intake tract (and its a gas just like air so will flow the same way). The argument that NX uses is a non issue (what if an injector is clogged!). A dry system uses the same aprroach as EVERY aftermarket turbo/supercharger kit on the planet, it jacks up fuel pressure at the rail increasing fuel flow from the injectors (whens the last time that was an issue for any turbo'd car ect. You could make that argument for a normally aspirated car). Any how the real con of a dry kit is there is but so much you can increase fuel pressure reliably and the more nitrous you use the more you must increase fuel pressure. So the amount of fuel pressure you can safely maintain is the limiting factor on a dry kit (but not all dry kits. Vemon uses a computer to increase the pulse width so the injector size would be the limiting factor).
Many use wet kits on our application without problems even up to 100hp without any pooling so it doesn't seem to be an issue with our manifold. A dry kit can only be used on 95s so you can imagine the majority of users have wet kits.
so is pooling the only reason i should't use a dry kit? well what about the 95's? i'm still not seeing any logical reason that i have to use a wet kit and 95's can use a dry? is it cause if they get pooling their fuel system could compensate for it? also i suppose i can't use a fuel pressure regulator cause i don't have a return line?
>i'm still not seeing >any logical reason that i >have to use a wet >kit and 95's can use >a dry?
The logical reason why you can't use a Dry kit and 95's can is that you don't have the vacuume fuel pressure regulator the dry kit would hook up to (OBDI). The 96 and later use a different type of fuel pressure regulater (electronic, why? OBDII).
Nitrous kits are safe as long as you have the fuel to go along with it, is used properly and in moderation
96 Eclipse Base Model Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot
1997 Eclipse RS 1991 Eclipse GSX 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1989 Dodge Daytona 2.5 turbo (tinker car) 1996 Eclipse base model RIP
>so is pooling the only reason >i should't use a dry >kit?
Dry kits dont spray any fuel to pool. Poolings a concern on some wet kits in some applications (not ours).
well what about the >95's? i'm still not seeing >any logical reason that i >have to use a wet >kit and 95's can use >a dry? is it cause >if they get pooling their >fuel system could compensate for >it?
As 96NOS explained it has to do with different fuel systems and nothing to do with pooling. 95 models just have a different fuel system (which makes everything from turbo kits to adjustable regulators much easier to install)
also i suppose i >can't use a fuel pressure >regulator cause i don't have >a return line?
You can use one if you want to install a return line. This is EXACTLY what 96up cars with turbo kits must do to run their boost dependant regulators. If you want to spend $150 on a regulator (with vacuum assist if you want nitrous dry), run a return line to the tank and all the hassles that come with doing that you can run a dry kit too
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i really only want it for the rare case when i ricer Civic or Integra wants some. thanks for any opinions.
