question for those with a wet kit. does the wet kit require any special modifications when setting up the nozzle/fuel injector part or is it all straight bolt-on? i plan on getting the NOS kit cause it seems pretty popular therefore more options.
#44197, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 0
Well I dont have a wet kit Yet but you need a scraeder valve tool to remove it from the fuel rail test port. You may need an additional fitting to fit the fuel line to the rail (its probably included). Everything is straight foward. Drilling the intake to mount the nozzle and dilling holes on the firewall to mount the solinoids are the only things that require more than "bolting on".
#44199, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 2
I think your confusing "wet" with "direct port". The majority of wet kits are "single fogger" kits which means one nozzle is placed into the intake pipe and its fed both nitrous and fuel which is then dumped into the intake tract. A direct port system is wet too but instead of spraying the nitrous/fuel mixture from a single nozzle before the throttle body a direct port system has a nozzle tapped into each runner on the intake manifold so that each cylinder recieves its seperate dose of nitrous/fuel and closer to the intake valves. You should not be trying to install a direct port kit. It requires removing the manifold, tapping the runners for the nozzle, bending tubing that runs from each nozzle to fuel and nitrous distribution blocks and complexity in general that even experienced installers dont look foward to. You generally need and upgraded pump and fuel pressure regulator to run it. There are way too many points of the install where leaks can develop for someone who's never done one to try it thereselves without ever doing a simple jop first. Changing jets in a direct port system (on our car) also looks like a name calling in fustration task.
Dry simply means fuel IS NOT sprayed into the intake tract. Wet simply means fuel (the wet in wet kit) IS sprayed into the intake tract.
A dry kit sprays NITROUS ONLY into the intake tract before the TB and fuel delivery is managed by: a) raising fuel pressure to the stock injectors (like a turbo kit regulator would)-NOS,ZEX or b) electronically increasing injector pulse width via computer and software (like a factory turbo ecu would do)-Venom
A wet kit works independent of the injectors. Its fuel supply comes from directing fuel off the rail to the nozzle. Direct away too much too fast and fuel prssure drops causing inadequate supply to the injectors which is why you need an upgraded fuel pump with greater than 75hp shot.
#44200, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 3
If you get the NOS wet kit (5208)it comes with instructions, but you may want to get the book from Summit (or Jegs, amazon.com etc.), pretty straight forward.(for even people with quite limited knowledge) The only problem we ran into was the lines are exactly as long as you need them. Depending on where you go with solenoids and such, you may not have enough, so plan ahead.
Michelle 96 Eclipse Base Model Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot
1997 Eclipse RS 1991 Eclipse GSX 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1989 Dodge Daytona 2.5 turbo (tinker car) 1996 Eclipse base model RIP
#44201, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 4
ahhhhhh. i see, i see so i need not a direct port but a wet and wouldn't my car run rich as hell when i'm not using the nitrous if i got a fuel pump? you said i only need a pump upgrade if i go over 75. so if i get a 75 shot i don't need to upgrade anything?
#44202, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 5
wow, first of all, let me start by saying stan, short of posting a wet kit install, you have just answered all of my questions about nitrous. michelle, is 5208 the number of the NOS kit i should order for my 1996 eagle talon esi? that's wet right? could one of you guys briefly just answer this question: is tapping a line into the fuel rail a big/hard job? or do you think the average installer (me) would be capable of it with instructions?
#44203, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 6
one more thing.... i heard a rumor that a "Wet" kit is slightly safer for your engine than a "dry" kit, due to fuel/nos matching problems...is this true?
#44204, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 7
Not Michelle but they have kit 5208 if I recall and that is the one you need (I'm sure of that). Tapping the fuel rail is easy because you simply use the test port already provided on the rail. Remove the screader valve and install the line fitting. Just depressurize the fuel system and/or have plenty of rag ready to catch the fuel. As for the wet vs dry depends on who you ask. Dry kit makers say dry and wet say wet. I dont think anyone has proven eithers case. Either there working for you or there not.
#44205, "RE: wet kit install" In response to Reply # 5
>wouldn't my car run rich >as hell when i'm not >using the nitrous if i >got a fuel pump
Not if the stock regulator can dump fuel back into the tank fast enough. On a 95 the regulator would attempt to maintain 45psi by dumping the excess fuel to the return line and back to the tank. The 96up does the same thing but back near the tank. I'm not sure how effecient either is of handling the extra flow from a upgraded pump. You can wire a inline pump to come on only when the nitrous is activated (much like a timing retard trigger on an aftermarket ignition).
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