I was woundering if it matters how long the tubes are off the boost controller because I would like to mount it below the Rear defroster in the empty space. But I would like the boost ajustment to be accurate. Let me know what you think.

yes it does matter... if you make it too long.... the shorter the better... if you want one inside then get an electronic one....

2006 WW IX MR
2003 BBY EVO VIII (sold)
256.9WHP & 277.9torque
http://s90395832.onlinehome.us/forum//index.php?sid=a70942a7f65043e6c873e12dcd300692

1998 Eclipse RS --show car--

or getty rig a home made maual one with your wastegate. pm or im for details.

Member # 751


FOUNDER of the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
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you could also add a DIY 2 stage setup using an mbc and a switch in the car.

just use any mbc, a vacuum solenoid (got mine off a 300ZX, but also on DSMs, Chryslers, etc) and a switch.

run the vacuum signal line from the manifold to the vacuum solenoid, then the solenoid has two outputs. One goes to the wastegate, the other goes to the mbc. Mount the switch wired to the solenoid in the car, and you can switch b/t the wastegate setting and the mbc setting (in my car, i had it at 6psi and 12psi...once the new motor is broken in, that will change tho )

You could even add more solenoids, switches and mbc's to create 3,4 etc different boost levels.

Another option is instead of having a regular switch in the car, you could have a WOT button at the pedal (sorry, i forget the real name of that type of switch...same thing that comes w/ most nitrous kits), so when you go full throttle, it switches to your high boost setting, and when your at partial throttle you stick to low boost for daily driving or whatever.

A lot of options, and theyre all WAY cheaper than most ebc's

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi