Hi all, I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse and I will soon be ordering my HRC Stage 2 turbo kit. I talked to some people from Hahn and they said find the FPR to figure out what kit I need. I looked at the fuel rail and its not at the end of that so it should be by the gas tank. This is fine, except that even though my car is a 96, it says that it was manufactured Sept of 95. Isn't it strange for this early of a 96 eclipse to have the FPR back by the tank?? Also, I noticed alot of people saying the Cartech FPR sucks. Does anyone have a link to the right Vortech one I'll need or have a part # or something? I want to go ahead and get that on order so I'll get them both at about the same time. TIA!

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS - Sold
1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

I've never heard of that before, with the FPR in the back on the 96. Are you *sure* its not on the fuel rail? Its basically a small round metal part that fits on the end of the rail, and will have a vacum line going to it. Where is your fuel filter located? It should be right next to the washer resovoir, between that and the rear motor mount by the tranny. The fuel filter is on the firewall, or it should be. If you still think its not right, then get under the car by the rear passenger wheel, and try and find the FPR back there. If it is, then it will be attached to the fuel filter up on the frame rail there. But it should be in the front for your year of car..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I am a turbo 1996 Eclipse and my fuel pressure regulator was bolted to the fuel filter behind the passenger side rear wheel. My car was manufactured on December of 1995. So even thought it was made in 1995 it is a 1996 Eclipse (strange).


Here's some info on parts that I bought for my stage II:

Here is a brief list of Parts that I added to my HRC Stage II turbo kit to make it a more stable kit:

1) Autometer Lunar Series Boost Guages (Air/Fuel, Pyrometer, Boost)
Autometer Full Pillar Pod (www.optauto.com) ($370.00)

- Wire tap for the Air Fuel Guage Sensor is Wire 30 (not 31 as
seen in other posts - I double checked this in the shop manual) on
the upper connector of the powertrain control unit next to the
fuse box in the engine compartment. (May be different for years
other than a 96 GS)

2) 4G63 8mm Exhaust manifold studs, nuts, and washers
(http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm
all the way at the bottom) ($1.00 a piece/$24.00 total (need 8))

3) Vortech Super Fuel Management Unit with Hard Spring
(Part #7X100-050) (www.vortechengineering.com) ($307.00)
-Run the largest disk 3.62 with the hard spring (no ring)
-Idle at 55 psi
-Max pressure under boost ~ 110+ psi

4) NGK Spark Plugs BKR7E-11 (www.ngksparkplugs.com) ($8.00)
(one range colder than stock - stock is BKR6E-11)
(gapped to .032)

5) Missing Link 003 Fuel Cut Defender (www.group5motorsport.com)
($55.00)

**The websites listed may not have the best prices but had everything I was looking for at one site - especially the guages**

Other Parts Needed (can be picked up at a local auto store):
- Aerokroil (best penetrating oil ever) or WD-40
- Anti-Sieze Compound
- Teflon Paste (for fuel connections, don't use teflon tape)
- Schrader Check Valve (tire valve) removal tool
- Chrysler Oil Pressure Sending Unit Socket (1 1/16" size)
- Spark Plug gapper


The parts that I have included in my kit get rid of all the problems I have heard previous owners of the HRC kit have (with the Cartech FMU not holding solid pressures and the fuel cut defender (black box) that HRC supplies with the kit).

I would also grab a copy of the HRC instructions and begin familarizing yourself with your car - what needs to be taken off and where it is located. This will save you tons of time if you are doing the install yourself.

I may have forgot something but I am sure some of the other posters can direct you further.


Hope this helps,
Kurt

Thanks alot for the help, that list should be a big help. I double checked the fuel rail, and it just ends. Nothing attached to the end of it, no vaccum hoses. I'm lowered with sportlines right now so its kind of hard for me to get underneath it at the moment but I'm sure thats where it has to be

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS - Sold
1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

No shit? hehe..to be sure of the manufacture date, find the sticker under the hood that says "catalyst". Look on the bottom of it, and it should say something like "this vehicle conforms to the 19xx model year".. Mabye it was in early 96's that the fuel setup changed..wierd.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I checked, it says that it conforms for a 1996 model vehicle. These eclipse's, full of surprises. Anyways, at the risk of sounding totally ignorant, what is a pyrometer and where does the missing link full cut defender thing get installed at?

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS - Sold
1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4

The pyrometer is the term for an Exhaust Temperature Gauge. It reads how hot your exhaust gases are. There are many factors that affect this temperature and is one of the best tunning devices when coupled with an air/fuel gauge. It will tell you how hot your engine is running. My pyrometer is mounted in the exhaust runner of cylinder #4. Here are some base numbers:

Idle ~ 800 degrees
Cruising around town @ 35 miles per hour ~ 1050 to 1100 degrees
Cruising at 75 miles per hour (flat road) ~ 1250 degrees
(going uphill could reach 1400 degrees at 75 miles per hour - severe load)
Max temp should never be over 1500 degrees (others push it to 1600 but I believe that is just too hot especially on stock internals)

Now when used with an Air/Fuel gauge, if your temperatures are too high and your a/f gauge isn't in the rich then you know you are running lean (NOTE: the air/fuel gauge is only accurate in open loop mode or Wide Open Throttle). Coupling the pyrometer with an A/F gauge is crucial as you could notice the same high temperatures if you are running to rich.


The missing link is installed on the passenger side of the intake manifold. If you look there now, you will see a black sensor with wires coming from it (the whole sensor assembly is held by two screws to the intake manifold). The Missing Link Fuel Cut defender goes in between this sensor and the manifold. The sensor is known as the MAP sensor. The MAP sensor on our cars does not like to see positive pressure in the manifold. If it does, it cuts fuel to the engine. This is not good for a boosted car. The missing link is a check valve that lets the map sensor see vacuum but does not allow it to see boost and therefore does not cut fuel.




P.S. Matt, I'll have to double check what my car says under the hood but it is snowing like crazy out here in New Jersey right now. No way in hell I am going out there for that now .