Im in the last few steps of rebuilding my motor and I cant figure out where a couple of brackets go ,does anybody have some pics of the front and back of the motor assembled or know where I can find some pics at. any info would help alot THX
#38852, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 1
if you have a digital camera take some pics of it..i guarantee that in a day you could have this answered..i remember what they all look like, just did a rebuild 3 months ago
#38979, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 3
Hehehe, I bet I know exactly which two brackets you're looking at. I got mine all assembled and had them in my parts bucket and went HUH?! wtf are these for?
If they're both about 6" long, and kinda right-angle pieces, they're the lower support braces for the tranny and the block. They go around the oil pan right above the center crossmember, holding the block and tranny together. Big beefy pink bolts.
Other possibility is if they're about 8" and are more or less straight, they're the support brackets that hold the head to the block. They go in the back, near the alternator and oil pressure sensor.
#38983, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 4
Ok my lil brother that helped me pull this thing apart came and stuck em on in like 2 seconds while I spent like an hour and half banging my head against the wall trying to figure out where they went(on the tranny to the block btw)thankyou for replying I just dropped or picked up the motor in the car and Im in the process of hooking everything back up any suggestions on anything or about breaking it in Its stock parts (new pistons bearings seals thats all I can afford right now, I know I should have gone forged but I dont have a car and Ive been driving a damn moped back and forth to work for the past 3 weeks)I have a star stg 1 1/2 (1 gen intercooler)staying at 5 psi any thought on how long and how to break it in ?
#38984, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 5
id heat cycle it for a couple times and run it with zero boost for about 500-1500miles and make sure those rings seat real well....
since u are running stock pistons
change oil after 500miles, just use mineral oil for the first 3 changes...
again after 1500miles and one more time after 1500-3000miles,
after that id just boost a little and u should be fine...
You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.
If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good. If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast. If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.
#38985, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 6
How do you not boost I ve found it very hard even being gentle not to boost is there something to unhook or do I need to be more gentle and what is a heat cycle cranking it up warm up then shut down ? Im a lil lost
#38998, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 7
disconnect the waste gate flapper =)
ther are a few ways to get it to not boost depending on your setup...
You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.
If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good. If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast. If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.
#39000, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 8
if you dont get on it at all(boost a little) the very FIRST time you drive it, there is a GOOD chance the rings wont seat correctly. ive seen it happen a bunch of times before. if its assembled right, once the rings are seated properly, you should be able to beat the shit out of it. if its wrong, it will break, wether the engine was broken in or not. www.TeamKLR.com 1997 Silver RS 12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials) Wiseco 10.5 Pistons Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 440's
#39047, "RE: rebuilding motor ?" In response to Reply # 9
1) Disconnect the wastegate, pull the lock pin (tape it to the inside of the windshield or something so you won't lose it), and remove the arm from the flapper.
2) Use non-synthetic oil!!- the cheap $1/quart crap. Let the car warm up to operating temp, shut down, cool off. Change oil & filter.
3) Go drive it and make sure things are working. Push it pretty hard. I took mine to redline for a few seconds on a nice long freeway onramp. This step is controversial, but my car's running beautifully, and I BEAT on it during the breakin.
4) On same drive, or next one, Drive around in 3rd gear out in the country, and accelerate smoothly and slowly up to 60. Then let the car coast back down to about 30. Keep doing this to break in the rings at all rpm/vacuum ranges. Do this as much as possible for the first 100 miles, try not to stay at the same RPM when youre driving.
5) Replace oil & filter at 500 miles, use non-synthetic again.
6) Replace oil & filter at 1500 miles, use whatever oil you want. Reconnect wastegate, make sure the wastegate vacuum line is connected too.
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