Ok, so after taking 8 months to rebuild, all the residual fuel in the lines seems to have caused some real damage. First my injectors wouldn't work. One was dead completely, the others clogged with brown ooze. Then the mechanical fuel pressure gauge wouldn't work, read 20psi when it should read 0. Now I think the whole FPR is messed up too.

- New fuel press gauge (0-100psi by B&M) reads 3psi at idle.
- Adjusting the FPR through its entire range has no effect on idle pressure
- Bottoming out the idle screw and forcing it a little raises the fuel press a little.
- Disconnecting the FPR vacuum line raises FP immediately to ~50psi but kills the car as soon as it's reconnected.
- Getting "Random Misfire" CEL and idle issues because of the screwed up idle fuel pressure.
- Engine runs *perfect* at anything above 3000 rpm.
- Hooked up SAFC and no amount of correction in any direction fixes the idle-2000rpm issues
- Injectors are 441cc/min

Should I disassemble and clean the billet FPR? Anyone done it?

might want to check your fuel pump(s) to be sure they are actually providing and suppling high pressure fuel... The cartach FPR sucks so bad its almost not even worth taking it apart..you wont like the cheap ass parts inside

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

>might want to check your fuel pump(s) to be sure they are
>actually providing and suppling high pressure fuel... The
>cartach FPR sucks so bad its almost not even worth taking it
>apart..you wont like the cheap ass parts inside


hey I am right with you there. I had a spare one here from a friend and damit i opened that thing up and it look like toys the part inside. But oh well that is why upgrading to the SFMU is the way to go.

But hey taking it apart is really not that hard putting it back together is the tricky part.

laters

DsM Power Soon to be turbo yahhhhhh

You could try cleaning it if you have time Dan.

Otherwise I think it is time to break down and purchase a SFMU...

-K-

Jamesman (the FPR guru) took the Cartech apart and sure enough, it had this oily goo sticking the fuel valve (lower) part together. I cleaned it out, and he cut up a nice rubber diaphragm from a Vortech FMU for the bottom.

The Cartech has these retarded thin rubber diaphragms that were warped and mashed permanently, after only about 10 hours of use.

He also trimmed the little square piece of metal so it wouldn't cut into the rubber. Idle pressure adjusts fine now. (THX!)

Note: The internals for the new "Billet" Cartech FPR are the same as the "Cast" Cartech FPR. The body is just aluminum machined to closer tolerances.

Time to buy a SFMU.