is a manual boost controller supposed to keep the wastegate fully closed until the desired boost level is reached? because mine doesnt. also it spikes 1 to 2 psi only in second gear. whats up with that? i have the hallman es mbc. i have some pretty long vacuum lines running through it, because thats the cleanest way i could mount it. do longer vac lines = boost spike prone? also its hooked up to the compressor side of the turbo, should i move it to the intake mani? tia.

-Joe
___________________________________
White 98 Eclipse GS MT
Star Stage 2
*Stolen - 10/24/03*

I've heard that from some people (hooking to intake mani), i've been meaning to try it i just haven't had the time. I get excessively high spike when i'm under high boost.



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

Jon

1997 Eclipse RS | 2001 Lexus IS300
12.671 @ 111.660 1.586 60' 5/28/04

www.haiokuracing.com

>is a manual boost controller supposed to keep the wastegate
>fully closed until the desired boost level is reached?

Yes, indirectly, it does.

also it spikes 1 to 2 psi only in
>second gear. whats up with that?

You may have boost leaks within your piping that contribute to this. For example, while you think your boost is set to 8 psi, it's really set to 10 psi, but because of your boost leaks, it only reaches that level for a short period of time, and then levels off to psi after the leak is achieved. Good idea is to hook up a boost leak detector.

i have the hallman es mbc.
>i have some pretty long vacuum lines running through it,
>because thats the cleanest way i could mount it. do longer
>vac lines = boost spike prone?

Yes, that can also lead to unstable and less acute boost settings.

also its hooked up to the
>compressor side of the turbo, should i move it to the intake
>mani?

Yes, that's the preferred method. Get a vacuum cap for the compressor with a ziptie to keep it on there. Then take a lead from the boost controller and tee it to a intake manifold vacuum line.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Yes! Move that boost line to your intake mani. Cap off the compressor outlet. What i did, is I took the brake booster vac line coming from the intake mani, cut it, then put in a plastic "T" found at any auto parts store, then ran the vac/boost line out the T and into the boost controller's input, the out to the wastgate like normal. Took care of my boost fading and spiking pretty good. Its VERY minimal now, and is much more accurate than before. My TB throttle plate shaft is leaking causing the pressure drop. The thing is the MBC wont see this pressure drop quickly, and the boost fades as the pressure leaks out. NOw with your boost source at the intake going to your MBC, it will see this pressure drop and the MBC takes over and closes the wastegate a bit.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

i guess i'll move it then, but it will still have long vacuum lines. does everyone else's wastegate stayed closed until full boost is reached or what? (with mbc of course) thanks again for your reply's.

-Joe
___________________________________
White 98 Eclipse GS MT
Star Stage 2
*Stolen - 10/24/03*