hi i'm selling the cartech fpr for a vortech sfmu. question is do i need to keep anything that comes with cartech or does the vorthech sfmu come with everything (wires, brackets, etc)?

also, for the accel fuel line, this is the LOUD one right? the walbro fuel pump is the one that replaces this or should i keep the accel fuel pump and run that in conjuction with the walbro fuel pump?

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

I'll answer the second part of your question dealing with the Walbro and Accel Fuel Pump. You definitely want to run both the Accel (an inline pump) and the Walbro (intank). Running just the Walbro could cause you to lean out.

Here is the pump I ordered:
Part # GSS342
Walbro 255 lph High Pressure Fuel Pump with Kit
(kit comes with a new filter bag, O-rings, filter bag clamp)

Purchased from www.lightningmotorsports.com
Just the pump is $90.00
Pump with kit is $115
Both have free shipping. I got mine in three days.


I have a 1996 Eclipse GS with a HRC Stage II and I replaced the stock intank pump with the Walbro 255 lph High Pressure pump while keeping the Accel Inline Pump (critical to keep this pump otherwise the car will run lean under higher pressures).

The install went smoothly and took maybe two hours. I purchased the Walbro GSS342 pump (this is the pump for the 1996 Eclipse Turbo). Some fuel pump sending unit modifications had to be made. The Walbro pump is slightly longer than the stock pump. The fuel supply line on the sending unit had to be cut approximately a 1/4". The pump outlet is then connected to the sending unit supply line with 5/16" fuel injection hose and two clamps (one on the pump supply port and one on the sending unit supply line). Very easy install. The install can be completed from the fuel tank access panel under the passenger side rear seat.

This walbro significantly reduces the amount of noise from the Accel inline pump. It is definitely worth the time and money to replace the stock pump. There is still a small wine but hardly noticeable. Night and day difference from my previous setup. When I had just the Accel pump, I could start my car which is parked on the road, stand in my garage, and hear the pump.

I hope this helps anyone who is debating on replacing the stock pump. I would definitely recommend it if you can't stand the noise.

Kurt



Mods:

Engine:
Hahn Racecraft Stage II Turbo Kit with Side Mount Intercooler (8 psi) || Greddy Type S Blow Off Valve || Autometer Lunar Series Boost, EGT, Air/Fuel Ratio Gauges || Vortech SFMU 2.62 Disk and Hard Spring || Missing Link || HKS Cat-back Exhaust || NGK 7E-11 Plugs || Magnecor 8.5 mm Spark Plug Wires

Suspension:
Tokico Illuminas 5-Way Adjustables || Tokico Springs || Ingalls Camber Kits || Pilot Motor Sports Front, Rear, and Lower Tie Bar

Exterior:
VIS Racing Strada F1 Front Bumper || VIS Racing Battle Z Side Skirts || Kaminari Rear Wing with LED || PIAA 912 Stealth Fog Lights || Racing Hart C2 Evolutions || Toyo T1S Proxies

Interior:
B&M Short Shifter || Energy Suspension Polyurethane Shifter Bushings || Momo Combat Shift Knob || Momo Shift Boot || Custom Floor Mats || Window Tinting

Electronics:
Street Glow Gold Series Undercar Kit (Red) || Street Glow Tubes Hidden Under Dash || Windshield Washer LEDs (RED) || Viper 700 with Window and Sunroof Roll Up (Up and Down) || Stereo

You need to buy different fittings for the SFMU, to connect the HRC fuel pressure gauge, at Home Depot or Lowe's. I can't remember what size fittings they were though.

Kris
"Someday............I'll have traction problems!!!!"
Tampa, FL
Pinoy Turbo 2GNT

1999 HRC Turbo RS
Stage 2
Auto with BOOST!!!!!!!!!!!!

>You need to buy different fittings for the SFMU, to connect
>the HRC fuel pressure gauge, at Home Depot or Lowe's. I
>can't remember what size fittings they were though.


so sell everything in the brown box that contains the crapteck(wrapped in newspaper)?

edit: another way to put the question is "what should i include in selling the cartech on ebay that comes with the hrc kit that i won't need or should i just sell the actual cartech billet aluminum thingy?"

New Car:
2004 350z base, Nismo CAI, pioneer avic-n1 (dvd, cd, navi)



Old Car:
1998 GS with hrc stage 2, HID 6000k conversion kit, AEM UEGO wideband, sfmu, ml, prokits, Greddy warning gauges: egt, boost gauge, and oil pressure, apexi tt, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler
Boostin since Aug 03.

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!

I would keep the little black and white vacume check valve, and the bleeder valve, but you *should really sell that with your kit. The brass bleed valve on the HRC regulator is the same exact one that is an option for the SFMU. If you do use the bleed valve on the SFMU, be sure to use the vacume check valve on it as you dont want any air leaking back into the SFMU throgh the bleed valve. That can affect your fuel pressures somewhat.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)