I fianlly finished my turbo install today, and started it up per the vortech instructions. Here is my problem... The instructions say to adjust the static fuel pressure, then put the vacuum line on and attach the supplied restrictor. Mine did not come with a restrictor, just a bag with diffferent calibration rings and a spring. What is the restrictor they are talking about? Can i get this locally? tia

John 96 GS

i know of some people without it. its sopose to slow the process of the the flow of vacuum, but then again it should work fine without it... its nothing big dude. but call vortex if you really want it.
cool

Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

The reason i am asking is because i adjusted the static pressure to 40 psi, and when i connect the vacuum line the pressure drops to 20 and will not adjust higher. When i turn the vacuum adjustment the car leans out. Here is what i have... stock injectors, SFMU, and the missing link. Do i need a different calibration disk?

John 96 GS

I have a Stage II HRC kit running 6/7psi and the Vortech SFMU. I am not sure what stage you are running but the 40 psi idle pressure is way too low for stock injectors. The Mitsubishi spec at idle is 47 - 50 psi with stock injectors.

My set up for 7 psi is the following:
Vortech SFMU with 3.62 disk and Optional Hard Spring (faster rise)
Idle fuel pressure 50 psi
WOT fuel pressure 115 psi - 120 psi.


Originally I had the 2.72 disk in the Vortech and it produces a lean condition at WOT. At WOT with Stock injectors at 7psi, the Air/Fuel Gauge would read lean (approximate 100 psi max WOT fuel pressure). I definitely recommend using the biggest disk in the calibration kit with a Stage II as this combination puts me right in the middle of rich on my autometer gauge and even lowered my EGT by 50 degrees under all conditions - perfect.


Think about it - the largest disk is a 7:1 (7 psi of fuel pressure to every 1 lb of boost) and the second to largest is 5:1. Hahn recommends at least 110 psi for a stage II.

Using the 7:1 disk (does not take into account the faster rise rate spring - from my change I would assume the faster rise rate spring gives and extra 10-15lbs of fuel pressure):

Idle + (Rise Rate * Boost) = approximate total fuel pressure
50 psi + (7 * 7 lbs of boost) = 100 psi + faster rise rate (15 psi) = 115 psi

Using the 5:1 (results is lean condition):

50 psi + (5 * 7 lbs of boost) = 85 psi of fuel pressure

P.S. To set your idle pressure, just keep the vacuum hose connected and set it with the car running - don't worry about static (vacuum line disconnected). If you are running the faster rise rate spring, turn the screw in about 3/4 of the way, start the car, read the fuel pressure gauge to see where you are at, and adjust from there.

Hope this helps,
Kurt

for stock fuel setup you should use the biggest disk. the 6:1 no ring. set static to about 55psi then when you put the two vacuum lines back together the pressure should drop 8-12psi from static.
okie


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

Thanks for the info!

John 96 GS