1996 Eclipse GS
HRC Stage II (7 psi)

I've been reading some of the archived posts and it seems as though many turbo owners prefer the Clutchmasters clutch over any other brand. I have an HRC stage II (running 7 psi) and in the future I am looking to rebuild my engine so that I could run 10-12 lbs of boost (there's nothing wrong with the engine at the moment as it is running strong). I do have a couple of questions.


- Should I use a Stage III or Stage IV? I've seen that a Stage IV is sometimes listed for drag use only and that a Stage III is for street and strip. Also, I've seen some sites claim that you can expect some chatter at low rpm from the stage IV and immediate engagement when power is applied. Which clutch will last longer?

- Should I purchase a flywheel? I know that depending on your VIN # my car may or may not have a modular clutch design. Will a Mitsubishi dealer be able to tell me which design I have? On the clutchmaster website, I do not see a flywheel listed for an eclipse non-turbo...is the 96 Neon or Avenger flywheel the same? If not, please tell me what flywheel should work with a clutchmasters.

- Would I be able to do the install myself? I've done all the work on my car so far and have the Mitsubishi Motors manual. Just wondering how complicated it is and if it is better to have a profession do this job.


Ok, I'm done now . Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
-Kurt

>1996 Eclipse GS
>HRC Stage II (7 psi)
>
>I've been reading some of the archived posts and it seems as
>- Should I use a Stage III or Stage IV? I've seen that a
>Stage IV is sometimes listed for drag use only and that a

Stage 4 all the way. No doubt.

>Stage III is for street and strip. Also, I've seen some
>sites claim that you can expect some chatter at low rpm from
>the stage IV and immediate engagement when power is applied.
> Which clutch will last longer?

I can't speal of anything less than the stage 4, but i've bathed mine in NV-T350 gear oil, bathed it in barsol afterwards, and it still grips like new. Ceramic is cool like that. It DOES chatter. A lot. BUT, it is still 100% streetable. I drive mine every day. it's a touch and go thing - if you go easy on it, it'll just chatter and then grab, and you leave a stop smooth. You romp on it, it grabs, you spin tire, you go. There is no in between.

>- Should I purchase a flywheel? I know that depending on
>your VIN # my car may or may not have a modular clutch
>design. Will a Mitsubishi dealer be able to tell me which
>design I have? On the clutchmaster website, I do not see a
>flywheel listed for an eclipse non-turbo...is the 96 Neon or
>Avenger flywheel the same? If not, please tell me what
>flywheel should work with a clutchmasters.

There is no need to buy a flywheel. Buy a modular stage 4 or 3, and be done with it.

>
>- Would I be able to do the install myself? I've done all
>the work on my car so far and have the Mitsubishi Motors
>manual. Just wondering how complicated it is and if it is
>better to have a profession do this job.

It's mostly dropping the trans. if you feel comfortable pulling axles, and removing the trans from the car, you can do your clutch.

>
>
>Ok, I'm done now . Any comments would be greatly
>appreciated.
>-Kurt

Welcome.. that's why i'm here.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thanks for the response Dino. It's good to get opinions on a product once someone has it installed. I just want to double check if this the right one. Clutchmaster's has two of them listed for a non-turbo 1996 model. I am assuming they are the same since the model numbers are both 05-084-HDCB.

Here is the first link (This it the one I want to buy. It says modular right in the title.):

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?page=shop%2Fflypage&MakeID=89&FromYear=1995&MakeModelID=28512&AppID=2920

Here is the second link (says for non-turbo years 1995 - 97):

http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?page=shop%2Fflypage&MakeID=89&FromYear=1995&MakeModelID=28512&AppID=2927


Last question. Can someone explain the difference between modular and non-modular? I thought that on a modular system you can unbolt the clutch assembly from the flywheel but in a non-modular the clutch assembly is riveted to the flywheel.

I just found it confusing when Dino said to buy a stage 4 and be done. The Stage 4 kit doesn't come with a flywheel so what if I purchase the modular unit and when I do the install find out that I have a stock non-modular clutch. Wouldn't I need a flywheel then?


As you can see, I'm not a transmission expert and I am trying to learn as much as I can. Please elaborate a bit.

Thanks again,
Kurt

If you plan to run only 10-12 psi, then I believe stage 3 is the one to go with; however, if you plan to run up to 20 psi then I think the stage 4 will hold up well. I have a CM Stage 3, and have been boosting 15-17 daily for about 10K miles. It's held up well, but it's beginning to slip on me. So now I will probably have to upgrade to the stage 4 because I hope to hit the tracks more this year.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Ceramic is cool
>like that. It DOES chatter. A lot. BUT, it is still 100%
>streetable. I drive mine every day. it's a touch and go
>thing - if you go easy on it, it'll just chatter and then
>grab, and you leave a stop smooth. You romp on it, it
>grabs, you spin tire, you go. There is no in between.
>

The CM Stage 3 was this exact same way and I LOVED IT!!!
I had no problem driving the car everyday, you just get used to a quick engauging clutch.



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