I've finally have my turbo on my car. I love it I've had it on since saturday and already have out run a 2000 or so mustang and an old firebird. I have some questions though I have a bad exhaust leak on the downpipe is there anyway to stop that? Also my fuel pump is very loud so loud that when I'm cooling the turbo down you can here it outside, and I'm only getting about 4-5 psi where I need to be getting 8-9 psi what do I need to do to up the boost or does it do it by it self? Two more questions There is a small black retangler box that is doing nothing it has no purpose at all???? and about the fuel pump it also gives off a very rich fuel smell why is it like that?





99 GS OZ EDITION
MODS- Apexi N1 Catback
Progress Sport Springs
Audio- JVC CD/TAPE/MP3 Player
Pioneer XM Radio
2 Alpine type R 12s
MTX-775 Watt Amp

Future Mods-
Hahns Stage 2 Turbo Kit
17in Rims
JSP Carbon Fiber Blade or Arospeed Carbon Fiber ST wing
Carbon Fiber Vented Hood
Sparco Racing Seats
AEM Big Brake Kit
Final Drive Mod
Tansco Shift Kit
Bottom End Kit
More to come......

99 GS OZ EDITION
MODS-
Hahns Stage 2 Turbo Kit
Apexi N1 Catback
Testpipe
Progress Sport Springs
Audio- Sony LCD entertainment stereo
Pioneer XM Radio
2 Alpine type R 12s
MTX-775 Watt Amp

Future Mods-
17in Rims
JSP Carbon Fiber Blade or Arospeed Carbo

DP exhaust leak--if it's clamped on per HRC's instruction, then there's not much you can do. Just try to tighten the clamp. An option is to have a welder weld a stock size flange to the HRC "J" pipe, and also a flange on the stock DP.

Fuel pump noise--it is loud. Nothing to eliminate that.

Fuel smell?--make sure there isn't any fuel leak at the FPR regulator. It tends to leak at the barbed inlet or outlet of the FPR. Doublecheck your fuel hose connections/clamps.

Little black rectangular box--that is the HRC fuel cut defenser. It's supposed to keep away the CEL, and it should help with the vacuum to boost transition; however, many of us have switched to the Missing Link instead.

Boost--check to make sure that all your i/c pipings and hose clamps are secure. Any small leak will prevent you from seeing 7-8 psi; or any exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold could prevent full boost. Typically, you will about 7-8 psi with the stage 2 actuator.

I hope this helps.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

>I've finally have my turbo on my car. I love it I've had it
>on since saturday and already have out run a 2000 or so
>mustang and an old firebird. I have some questions though I
>have a bad exhaust leak on the downpipe is there anyway to
>stop that?

Well I had to use a 2" exaust clamp to make mine not leak. The kit comes with a 2.25" one i believe, but that crimped my two pipes together. So I had to take it apart, and try and re-round out the two pipes, then put it back togeher, making sure the stock DP was seated as far in the Hahn DP as possible, and maganged to get a 2" exaust clamp on the Hahn DP. Tightened it up good, and now its perfect.

Also my fuel pump is very loud so loud that when
>I'm cooling the turbo down you can here it outside,

Yep, the pumps are loud as all hell. I can hear mine prob about a good 20 feet away from the car. Either live with it, or try and remount it using rubber or other sound isolating things. I've heard that putting a high volume intank fuel pump, instead of using the stock fuel pump, that it quiets it down considerably.

and I'm
>only getting about 4-5 psi where I need to be getting 8-9
>psi what do I need to do to up the boost or does it do it by
>it self?

YOu should see about 8 psi with the stage 2 kit. If not, then its most likely you have a boost leak somewhere. Double check all intercooler piping couplers, and any piping connection to be sure they are all leak free.


Two more questions There is a small black retangler
>box that is doing nothing it has no purpose at all????

I believe you are talking about the Fuel Cut Defensor. Hopefully you have this hooked up to your map sensor, as it prevents fuel cut under boost. The FCD should have a red and black wire coming from it, that hooks up to your map sensor wires. Be sure to follow the wireing diagram so its connected properly.

and
>about the fuel pump it also gives off a very rich fuel smell
>why is it like that?
>
I really dont notice a fuel smell at all. Most likely a fuel leak somewhere. Again, double check ALL fuel line connections and clamps to be sure they are nice and tight. Dont play around with a fuel leak...
>
>

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

yes, do all of what they said. if you want weld the two dp together to seal it nicely. also check for any leaks, but the hrc fuel pump is loud, when i put my 315cc injectors in my gosh,.. hehe i had to buy a hi flow in-tank right away to drop the noise down. and really its worth every freakin dollar...hmm let us know if you need any other help....




Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

Low Boost: It's very common to get the Stage I actuator from HRC in a Stage II kit. Either add a boost controller or call HRC and talk to their tech support to determine if you have the 5psi or 9psi acutator.

They also "strongly" suggest an aftermarket exhaust. My stock GST exhaust wouldn't let me push over 6psi. (This has been disputed, but it's my experience fwiw.)

Loud Fuel pump: First get a Walbro 255lph HP in-tank fuel pump. That will get you 75% of the way to quiet. You can also cut out and flatten rubber fuel hose and use it everywhere the fuel pump bracket contacts ANYTHING. Especially on each bolt. You can also slice it and wrap all the metal fuel lines near the bracket. Basically you want no metal-metal contact within 2 feet of the bracket. Some people have even dynamat-ed the back seat.