After running only 10psi on a built motor for far too long I finally was able to up the boost. I just got the 440's in last night and unhooked the battery to reset the computer. Started it up this morning w/ an idle pressure of 20psi. The car ran fine even before either fuel trim moved from 0%. After a few minutes the LTFT maxxed to -25% as did the STFT. At idle and full vac they are both maxxed out. BUT under any throttle positions then the STFT is anywhere between -20% AND +10%. So there is still a little adjustability there. I'm using the 3:1 disk in the SFMU so my max fuel pressure is 75psi at 15psi boost. When I figured out my fuel needs w/ a BSFC of .60 it came out as me needing 72psi at full boost so that's about perfect. EGT's look "OK" I still need to look at those some more. A/f gauge is whacked out but when I first hit it, it reads ~.96. As for closed loop timing I get 17.5 degrees at 10psi and 19 degrees above that. WOT timing is 12.5 according to my dad but that may be wrong. I need to watch it myself tomorrrow. When I was at 10psi it was 15 degrees at WOT so that may be right. But anyway so far the car is pretty fast for now. I can spin through 1st 2nd and bark 3rd hard. Also I can spin 2nd from a roll. So it has quite a bit more power than it did at 10psi. So I'm happy for now. Now it's time to see how long my 85K miles clutch lasts.

Sweet man, sounds like you're having some fun over there. I can't wait to get mine up to 15 psi. Should be only a couple more weeks (I hope).

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Wow, you idle at 20 psi of fuel pressure? Isn't that too low? I thought base fuel pressure should be around (at least) 32-35 psi with 440 injectors. I could be wrong on this.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Depends on what you mean by base. My static is 30-32psi. But when I had that running rich problem w/ the sensor I could idle at 0psi. Don't ask me how but it did :/

That's gay.........i'm jealous........I'm still at 5 psi for far too long

Kris
"Someday............I'll have traction problems!!!!"
Tampa, FL
Pinoy Turbo 2GNT

1999 HRC Turbo RS
Stage 2
Auto with BOOST!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am glad to hear you guys are finally coming to the dark side of letting the stock ecu do its thing. I find it interesting what a lot of you guys are having to set your static pressure to myself considering mine is 45psi. I idle around 37psi perfectly fine with 525's and only the stock ecu and a 1:1 regulator. No matter. If it works, it works.

Timing sounds good at 19deg. Hopefully it is not 12deg. That would suck. :-/ I think between 17-20deg is a good spot to be in under full boost.

Another note, from what we have seen the car WILL run fine as it is, but eventually something like a S-AFC will allow you to simply fine tune it some more. Mainly because you end up with a couple of rich spots.

Any cel?

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

Chris, how much boost are you running on 525's?

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

We are setting it up for 18psi on pump gas with the S16G. Maybe 20psi if things look good and it can actually do it. On just teh stock ecu we left it 15psi until we could get some a/f readings to know what it is actually doing. It defnitely has enough fuel tghough. To answer the long question, using the 525's with the E-Manage should have me good for anything the S16G can handle. I am expecting maybe 22-24psi on race gas. I did what I think you are thinking of doing.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

>I did what I think you are thinking of
doing.

Get rid of the DFI??? Looks like I'm gonna try to run my 440's with just the ECU as well. I already have my AFC in, but I'll just leave it zero'd out. Hmmmmm, this stuff is interestng.....

I predict your clutch lasting about 2 weeks. Mine lastd 5 days at 15 psi. And my pistons lasted about 3 weeks.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

chris, with your 525cc injectors, and 1:1 fpr with you using the stock ecu. do you still have both intank pump, and the hrc accel inline pump? or did you remove the inline ?... what kind of 1:1 fpr are you using?... i might do this when i rebuild, im still debating between doing the most common thing, using the afc, letting the ecu do most of the work, 8 injec setup, or the emanage. depending how it works out for you. when is your car going to be up in running again?... are you using stock bearings again?
cool


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

Will the e-manage allow us to alter timing as well? Is anyone (Neon, ASOG, 2gnt) playing with one of these yet?

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

Mike, I am still using the inline pump and the 1:1 regulator is from HRC. Any should do though. Mark is using the 440's with a Vortec S-FMU in his avenger. As for bearings, well the engine is out but it has not been taken apart yet. I intend on reusing the stock bearings though. It will probably not be back together until the new year though. There is no rush or priority on it.

Greg, I am using the E-Manage. It does modify both timing and fuel. It also allows for two additional injectors if I ever need it.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

Chris- I have a system too rich code at idle. I'd bet it's because my fuel trims are maxxed out. And 2 other unrelated codes.

Dave- I think you gave my clutch too much credit It slipped last night in 5th gear a couple times.

The e-manage will only run up to 550cc injectors? Or 550cc over what the stock ecu can handle? I want to be the '30psi guy' and I don't think 550's will cut it.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

hey guys where can I get some 40lb or 50lb injectors cheap any of you guys got any 440's you wanna sell I rather buy injectors off someone off this board instead of buying them on ebay. my 30lb ford motorsport injectors are too small still for 13lbs ()

uh, dude. your stock bearings are trash and will be thrown in the garbage. If I fix it, it is getting clevite 77 bearings. no point in half assing something that broke. Bearings don't cost that much anyway.

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

420Avenger: Lower your idle fuel pressure from 20 psi to about 17-18 psi. See what that does. I was surprised at how dropping the pressure a few psi, can make the fuel trim #'s come back closer to 0%. If its still too high, try to run 15 psi at idle. I'd be willing to bet that your fuel trims will be much better, around the -10% range, which is much closer to stock, and will get rid of the too rich CEL. I run the 315's, and idle around 25 psi, with very good fuel trims, usually around -6%. I'd figure to run 440's, you will need around 15-18 psi at idle fuel pressure to get it lookin good. You also may want to datalog the car again, esp when part throttle closed loop boosting to monitor fuel trims. See what its like then. Then you can fine tune using different disk combos in the SFMU if you need to.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Do you think the injectors will fire right at 15psi fuel pressure? I can try it but I don't want to lower it too much because I won't have enough fuel for 15psi boost. Plus at that much boost the difference in the SFMU disks is too big. If I switch to the next higher disk I'll get ~95psi fuel pressure instead of 75psi. That's way too much. BTW does anyone want to try the fuel formula on Corbin's page for me? When I did it I figured I needed 75psi fuel at full boost. But in 4th and 5th my EGT's fly right to 1600. So either I'm way lean or way rich :/

>Do you think the injectors will fire right at 15psi fuel
>pressure?

I have *heard* that the car will run with 10 psi of fuel pressure..go figure

I can try it but I don't want to lower it too
>much because I won't have enough fuel for 15psi boost. Plus
>at that much boost the difference in the SFMU disks is too
>big. If I switch to the next higher disk I'll get ~95psi
>fuel pressure instead of 75psi.

This is when you can use the boost bleed valve option for the SFMU. You can run a larger disk, and then bleed off boost pressure to lower the rise rate some. Thats what i am doing with the 315's now. The bleed valve is the exact same valve on the HRC kit that goes on their cartach regulator. I use that, and i also use the vacume check valve so that vacume doesnt leak back into the bleed valve under non boost conditions. If you dont use the check valve along with the bleed valve, it can mess around with your fuel pressures under vacume.

That's way too much. BTW
>does anyone want to try the fuel formula on Corbin's page
>for me? When I did it I figured I needed 75psi fuel at full
>boost. But in 4th and 5th my EGT's fly right to 1600. So
>either I'm way lean or way rich :/

Sounds like its too lean..could be too rich, but i doubt it. Give it some more fuel, and see what happens. I would run the 2.72 disk, with the bleed valve. Start at 15-17 psi fuel at idle, and have the bleed valve fully closed off. That should be plenty of fuel for 15 psi. Then you can open up the bleed valve and lean the pressure out to whatever you need. At 15 psi, I would shoot for o2 voltages around .96 in 4th gear. You need lots of fuel to not detonate.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Well I don't have a bleed valve yet so I'll have to get one. No hurry though because I can't really go WOT right now anyway. Clutch is slipping pretty bad at full boost.

BTW can you buy a wideband 02 and have it in your car? Is it part of the dyno equipment or can anyone get one? I've never been to a dyno so I don't know exactly what they measure it w/.

Yes you can buy a wideband O2 sensor for our cars. I believe HRC or someone has the kit for sale, but if I remember correctly it's about $1000 for it!!

Here's the one I'm getting.

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

if you have too much fuel pressure at idle, just lower it. the worst that can happen is the car doesn't idle right. you aren't going to break something by trying new ideas in this situation. I think mark's car (004) idles at about 10 psi of fuel pressure. idles fine. he also uses the 2.72" disk with no bleeder and has about 90 psi of fuel pressure at 16 psi. you need to either A go to a dyno with a wideband o2 sensor or b. BUY a wideband o2 sensor and display befor eyou start beating up on your car with pump gas, or you will blow it up. the guy that helps me tune my car (ed) sells wideband o2 sensors w/ display for about 5 to 600 bucks. they are "very quick" and "very accurate". http://www.dynotuner.net

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........