alright, i've gotten pretty sick of only 5 psi, and no intercooler so it seems to be about time for 8-9 psi. heh, i'll be able to keep up with my friend's 96 300ZX TT a little better. i dropped $80 on a 1g SMIC on e-bay the other day, and it's going to be at my house tomorrow. i'm planning on getting some custom piping made (however, i might get impatient and fake it with PVC this weekend just for fun... lol), somewhat like what XtreamRS did (thanks for posting the pics a while back, the shop i take it to will probably be less confused when i show them your setup). i also bought the hallman classic MBC from Mach V because i'm not interested in spending infinite cash for one of those wicked cool electronic ones just yet. got a leak tester too, to hunt down and kill those boost leaks.

my questions are:
is there any special stuff that i need to do other than make sure that my fuel pressure is around 100 psi at 8 psi?

i know i'll need custom piping, will any old muffler shop be willing to do it or do i need to search some more for a shop that won't be afraid to do it?

when i tell the shop that i need a little flange for my BOV, does it matter if it goes before the intercooler or after it? (i'm guessing the BOV would sound a little cooler if it was before the intercooler, due to slightly more boost between shifts, because of the pressure loss in the intercooler, or i could be on crack)

i'm kind of scared about the whole boost controller thing. i don't want to f.c.u.k. up my engine. i guess i adjust it by turning it all the way down and then going for a drive every time i turn it a little until i get like 8 psi?

sorry for the long post. i'm done now.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

>alright, i've gotten pretty sick of only 5 psi, and no
>intercooler so it seems to be about time for 8-9 psi. heh,
>i'll be able to keep up with my friend's 96 300ZX TT a
>little better.

Hehe, dont expect much better...i got taken by 4 cars with one of those when i ran 8 psi...

i dropped $80 on a 1g SMIC on e-bay the other
>day, and it's going to be at my house tomorrow. i'm planning
>on getting some custom piping made (however, i might get
>impatient and fake it with PVC this weekend just for fun...
>lol), somewhat like what XtreamRS did (thanks for posting
>the pics a while back, the shop i take it to will probably
>be less confused when i show them your setup). i also bought
>the hallman classic MBC from Mach V because i'm not
>interested in spending infinite cash for one of those wicked
>cool electronic ones just yet. got a leak tester too, to
>hunt down and kill those boost leaks.


Excellent.
>
>my questions are:
>is there any special stuff that i need to do other than make
>sure that my fuel pressure is around 100 psi at 8 psi?

Hopefully, you have an EGT and air/fuel gauge to tell how your o2's are under WOT boost. Tune it rich. At 8 psi, you want to see around .94-.95 o2's in 4th gear(assuming your 5spd). Start off really rich, then tune down, thats the safest way. Dont just rely on 100 psi to start off with, it can vary from setup to setup.
>
>i know i'll need custom piping, will any old muffler shop be
>willing to do it or do i need to search some more for a shop
>that won't be afraid to do it?


You are just going to have to call around, and see who is willing to do it. Almost ANY muffler shop can do it, its just comes down to who actually wants to do it. True mandrel pipe benders are hard to come by also. The majority of muffler shops have press benders.
>
>when i tell the shop that i need a little flange for my BOV,
>does it matter if it goes before the intercooler or after
>it? (i'm guessing the BOV would sound a little cooler if it
>was before the intercooler, due to slightly more boost
>between shifts, because of the pressure loss in the
>intercooler, or i could be on crack)


Which BOV are you going to use again? The Hahn kit BOV, or any TurboXS bov, will fit on the stock stage one piping flange. Its just a small pipe that it connects to. With mine, they just cut off that little pipe off my old stage one piping, and rewelded it to the new bent IC piping. Works fine. BOV should go AFTER the IC, on the intake pipe to the TB.
>
>i'm kind of scared about the whole boost controller thing. i
>don't want to f.c.u.k. up my engine. i guess i adjust it by
>turning it all the way down and then going for a drive every
>time i turn it a little until i get like 8 psi?


Well I have the Hallman, and to get your wastegate boost setting (5psi), you will need to have the controller nob turned all the way out. To increase boost, you turn it in, in very small incriments, to achieve your max boost setting. Just start off with it all the way out, then go in from there. Another tip for you.. I got boost fade at higher rpms with my boost controller, mostly due to small boost leaks at the TB. Instead of using the little vac fitting on the turbo compressor housing to run the boost controller, use a manifold vacum source in stead, then just cap off the one on the turbo housing. This way, if any boost leaks, the boost controller will compensate for it. It totally fixed my fade problem. My setup, I have a "T" vacum fitting in my vac line going to my brake booster. From this T, i have a line going from that, to the input of the boost controller, then the output of the boost controller is going to the wastegate actuator. Works great, rock solid boost pressure at all rpms.
>
>sorry for the long post. i'm done now.

any more q's, just ask

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I stole the 1g SMIC from XtremeRS, but I did it a little bit different. If you can find an elbow silicon connector, tha rotate your compressor housing to where it points down. Put the elbow on there, and I grinded the hole under the fuse box bigger and had pipe made from the elbow through the hole and to the top of the 1g. I used a hole-saw and drilled a 2.25" hole through the plastic and stuck the bottom inlet of the 1g through the hole. I then had pipe made to the TB from that. I had to weld the BOV flange on and I welded the old steel elbow that actually went to TB. A muff shop would do the whole deal. I got all my pipe for 20 bux.

Shit is all apart. Typical...