OK, got everything in and hooked up and went for the all important test drive. Like a dumbass I left my SFMU at home so I had to toss on the CarCrap for now. Here is the problem....

First off I had to raise the idle pressure to around 80PSI to even come close to boosting.

Second When it hits boost it doesn;t really raise the pressure, actually it drops pressure when I go past half throttle and goes way lean. As long as I stay at about half throttle though she will stay rich and keep boosting away.

Third, even thouhg I got a Stage 2 w/SMIC I can;t seem to get over 6PSI on the boost gauge. It gets there and stays solid at 6PSI but will not go any higher.

Fourth, in the directions for the gauge hook-ups it shows the one line going to the blow off valve, but what do you do with the EVAP line that is alreay on that connector? They seem to skip that part.

Fifth, is it possible along with the other issues I have had with this order they sent me the wrong waste gate spring in mine since I can;t seem to hit over 6 PSI?????

So I guess my question is, is the POS CarCrap FPR the problem with the fuel issue? If so I will have the guy get me a SFMU to use until I can swap him for the one I have at home. I did turn the blled-off on it all the way in so I don;t think it is bleeding off at all. Tried it with the 2 turns out to start like they recomoend but it just dropped pressure in a hurry at anything but closed. EGT's aren't really going up at all when it does hit boost, staying around 1400 or so. HELP!!!!!!!!! TIA for any info....

Oh and yes the boost feels good, what little bit I'm getting.

dunno bout the fuel, but as for the not reaching much boost you could check out for leaks

turbo8u: "jiggle jiggle then vroom vroom pshhhh"
-Mike Pruett
2gnt member# 976
MOPAR Stage 2
SRTForums.com member #37 (Yeah, I signed up when it first came out, and ended up getting one, cool huh?)
"The object of war is not to die for your country but to make the other bastard die for his."
- General George Patton (1885-1945)

Don, Ive been thinking about your boost problem. First I would check for any leaks and if that doesnt fix it I would get a manual boost controller and up the boost to whatever you plan on running

Toney
'97 RS 5 Speed (totaled)
15.4606@88.42 Mph
96 Toyota Celica GT
88 Toyota Supra NA-T (w/ sports package)
Got Boost?? Hell yeah I-6 turbo powah baby!

>First off I had to raise the idle pressure to around 80PSI
>to even come close to boosting.

What exactly do you mean by this? There is no way the car will even run with such a high idle pressure...it might, but black smoke will most def be puring out the exaust, and idle would be extremly rough. For stock injects, idle pressure should be around 48-55 psi. My car idled very well at around 49-50 psi.
>
>Second When it hits boost it doesn;t really raise the
>pressure, actually it drops pressure when I go past half
>throttle and goes way lean. As long as I stay at about half
>throttle though she will stay rich and keep boosting away.

How do you have the vac line going to the regulator? It should be tapped off of intake manifold vacum. Fuel pressure should go up as boost pressure increases. At 6 psi boost, you shoud see around 85-90 psi of fuel pressure on the fuel pressure gauge.
>
>Third, even thouhg I got a Stage 2 w/SMIC I can;t seem to
>get over 6PSI on the boost gauge. It gets there and stays
>solid at 6PSI but will not go any higher.

Stage 2 should come with a 9 psi wastegate actuator. With the SMIC installed, there should be around a 1 psi pressure drop, so you should see about 8 psi, give or take slightly. Again, check how the vac line is at the turbo compressor housing, going to the wastegate actuator.
>
>Fourth, in the directions for the gauge hook-ups it shows
>the one line going to the blow off valve, but what do you do
>with the EVAP line that is alreay on that connector? They
>seem to skip that part.

You should not be hooking anything into the EVAP line. The evap line is right ontop of the TB,right above the throttle plate. If this isnt the line you are talking about, then its not the evap line. You should have brass "T" fittings for connecting the extra vac lines to run the BOV and FPR included with the kit. At the back of the intake mani, you need to remove one or two lines at the 3 pronged vac fitting, and use the supplied vac tees to splice and connect the extra vac lines, lettting you have enough hookups to keep all the stock vac lines hooked up.
>
>Fifth, is it possible along with the other issues I have had
>with this order they sent me the wrong waste gate spring in
>mine since I can;t seem to hit over 6 PSI?????

Its possible, but if they did, you wouldnt be seeing 6 psi, you would see about 4 psi, as the only other spring that is made is the 5 psi one. Try this, ONLY after you check for any and all boost leaks, and vac line leaks! Take out the pin on the actuator rod, whre it hooks up to the wastgage arm on the exaust side of the turbo. Loosen the nut, and turn in that end piece on the arm itself. This will give you about another 2 psi, or close to that.
>
>So I guess my question is, is the POS CarCrap FPR the
>problem with the fuel issue? If so I will have the guy get
>me a SFMU to use until I can swap him for the one I have at
>home. I did turn the blled-off on it all the way in so I
>don;t think it is bleeding off at all. Tried it with the 2
>turns out to start like they recomoend but it just dropped
>pressure in a hurry at anything but closed. EGT's aren't
>really going up at all when it does hit boost, staying
>around 1400 or so. HELP!!!!!!!!! TIA for any info....
>
>Oh and yes the boost feels good, what little bit I'm
>getting.


Be sure your FPR is hooked up properly. IF the IN and OUT are backwards, it may be causing your problems.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

>>First off I had to raise the idle pressure to around 80PSI
>>to even come close to boosting.
>
>What exactly do you mean by this? There is no way the car
>will even run with such a high idle pressure...it might, but
>black smoke will most def be puring out the exaust, and idle
>would be extremly rough. For stock injects, idle pressure
>should be around 48-55 psi. My car idled very well at around
>49-50 psi.

I had it set to 55 at first but on the first shake down run it kept dropping pressure so I upped it to see what it would do. The only noticeable change was the tone of the fuel pump took on a higher whine. Car still idled fine.
>>
>>Second When it hits boost it doesn;t really raise the
>>pressure, actually it drops pressure when I go past half
>>throttle and goes way lean. As long as I stay at about half
>>throttle though she will stay rich and keep boosting away.
>
>How do you have the vac line going to the regulator? It
>should be tapped off of intake manifold vacum. Fuel pressure
>should go up as boost pressure increases. At 6 psi boost,
>you shoud see around 85-90 psi of fuel pressure on the fuel
>pressure gauge.

I have it tapped to the same line as the Boost gauge. As per the instructions show in the diagram. On that 3 pronged fitting on the back of the intake manifold the right side goes to the EGR actuator and that is the one it said to use the 2 tees on to run the boost gauge and FPR. The center one has a cap on it and the left one has a line that goes to that hard tube that runs up and over behind the timing gear cover and down to the Evap canister area, that is the one my instructions show to use for the BOV. I tried to call the tech line and the guy on there said to just put a tee in that line unless I wanna unhook it and get a CEL which I did.
>>
>>Third, even thouhg I got a Stage 2 w/SMIC I can;t seem to
>>get over 6PSI on the boost gauge. It gets there and stays
>>solid at 6PSI but will not go any higher.
>
>Stage 2 should come with a 9 psi wastegate actuator. With
>the SMIC installed, there should be around a 1 psi pressure
>drop, so you should see about 8 psi, give or take slightly.
>Again, check how the vac line is at the turbo compressor
>housing, going to the wastegate actuator.
>>
>>Fourth, in the directions for the gauge hook-ups it shows
>>the one line going to the blow off valve, but what do you do
>>with the EVAP line that is alreay on that connector? They
>>seem to skip that part.
>
>You should not be hooking anything into the EVAP line. The
>evap line is right ontop of the TB,right above the throttle
>plate. If this isnt the line you are talking about, then its
>not the evap line. You should have brass "T" fittings for
>connecting the extra vac lines to run the BOV and FPR
>included with the kit. At the back of the intake mani, you
>need to remove one or two lines at the 3 pronged vac
>fitting, and use the supplied vac tees to splice and connect
>the extra vac lines, lettting you have enough hookups to
>keep all the stock vac lines hooked up.
>>
>>Fifth, is it possible along with the other issues I have had
>>with this order they sent me the wrong waste gate spring in
>>mine since I can;t seem to hit over 6 PSI?????
>
>Its possible, but if they did, you wouldnt be seeing 6 psi,
>you would see about 4 psi, as the only other spring that is
>made is the 5 psi one. Try this, ONLY after you check for
>any and all boost leaks, and vac line leaks! Take out the
>pin on the actuator rod, whre it hooks up to the wastgage
>arm on the exaust side of the turbo. Loosen the nut, and
>turn in that end piece on the arm itself. This will give you
>about another 2 psi, or close to that.
>>
>>So I guess my question is, is the POS CarCrap FPR the
>>problem with the fuel issue? If so I will have the guy get
>>me a SFMU to use until I can swap him for the one I have at
>>home. I did turn the blled-off on it all the way in so I
>>don;t think it is bleeding off at all. Tried it with the 2
>>turns out to start like they recomoend but it just dropped
>>pressure in a hurry at anything but closed. EGT's aren't
>>really going up at all when it does hit boost, staying
>>around 1400 or so. HELP!!!!!!!!! TIA for any info....
>>
>>Oh and yes the boost feels good, what little bit I'm
>>getting.
>
>
>Be sure your FPR is hooked up properly. IF the IN and OUT
>are backwards, it may be causing your problems.

The in and outs as far as fuel lines go are hooked up correctly, I re-cjecked them 3 times over before it was even time to try and start it. As far as the lines on top go I have the oone going from the Vaqcuum tee going into the one sticking strainght out of the side and the lil check valve thing on the bleed off thing.

I checked for leaks at every area of the IC piping and intake piping and they are all tight as they can go, made sure to get the piping as far inside as possible. Will re-check everything again in the morning, just wish there were more people around here that have bolted a kit on before, but oh well I'll have to learn as I go as usual, no biggie as long as I get it right without blowing anything up right.. I will re-check everything agian though, and if you think of anything else please let me know.....

>First off I had to raise the idle pressure to around 80PSI

If your idle pressure is 80psi, you will detonate. DONT DO THAT

>Second When it hits boost it doesn;t really raise the
>pressure, actually it drops pressure when I go past half

Is the schrader valve outta the fuel rail? Any kinks in the fuel return line? In the rubber lines?

Again, if your idle pressure is 80psi, then you're probably around 140 psi at 5lbs boost. The injectors and fuel pump can't handle that, and start shutting down. Or are you saying your Fuel pressure drops under boost? If so, tried swapping in/out ports? I think it's possible for the HRC billet fpr to be assembled backwards.

>Third, even thouhg I got a Stage 2 w/SMIC I can;t seem to
>get over 6PSI on the boost gauge.

Have an aftermarket exhaust? A stock or GS-T exhaust will limit you to 6psi.

Also, mine and a couple others' wastegate spring WAS the Stage 1 spring, even though we started with a Stage 2 kit. I've had REALLY bad luck getting the wrong parts from HRC. So, YES to question #5.

I like having the 5psi spring since I have a boost controller... it lets me turn down the boost for daily driving or racing hondas.

>So I guess my question is, is the POS CarCrap FPR the
>problem with the fuel issue?

Putting in the SMFU will save you exactly 482 headaches.

"Putting in the SMFU will save you exactly 482 headaches."

AMEN!!!!

Def check to see if the schraeder valve is removed from the test port on the fuel rail fitting. IN on the FPR should be coming from the fuel rail test port connection, and OUT going back to the gas tank. And yes, it can all be related to the Craptech FPR.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

OK, yes the schraeder valve is out, and damn was that thing a pain in the ass to get out. I double checked all the ins and outs today and they were all correct. I pinched down the return line to make sure the pressure rose and it did. I played with the FMU a lil more and think I got that right now, pressure rises as I push the gas but then it starts to cut with boost which is now leading me to everybodies favorite FCD....Luckily my Missing link is on it's way, by the tracking info should be at my house when I get homoe tomorrow so I will swap that in and see if things improve tomorrow night. If not then at least I have 2 things available this weekend, others that have turbo knowledge and a dyno.....So hopefully the Missing link will cure things up. It is seeing a lil bit of boost now I guess since the BOV is making alot of noise now, so I guess I am on the right track, I think at least.......

Also, first thing today I lowered the fuel pressure back down to 55 and let the bleed valve out the tiniest amount so I guess that was the problem on that area....but the thing is still flaky and the SFMU will be going on as soon as I get a chance.

Oh and the exhaust has been upgraded, not the best but I have the Paceshitter cat back....