What map are you using. I have writen two maps that work kinda sorta well. I use the stage 4 HRC map most of the time. It seems to work well w/ the close loop setting on.

If any of you guys have a map that is working real well please share

tia
Brian

my fuel trims are setup for the s20g, hahn's base map, so they are richer across the board. Even so, because of other flow modifications like boring and porting, I have to take that file and richen it up in the top end to get the egt's resonable.

I don't know what map I'm using right now. I've tinkered with it soooo many times, it's like a 'Frankenmap'. It's still lean during highway cruise, and needs to be richened up at WOT with the power tuner. I think it was a Stage 4 map to start with, but I don't think it was the Hahn map - it never really ran right until I started messing with it. Want to swap? I'd love to try out someone elses map to see if I'm doing my job as a tuner or not.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

my fuel maps are for RC 720 cc injectors. and othe raspects of "my" car. it works fairly well. on a normal car, it would work like crap.

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

Good question. I just got my laptop a couple of days ago, so I haven't really experimented with the fuel maps. am working with the HRCstage 4 (15 psi map). My WOT fuel map is okay, but I need to work on the daily driving fuel map. I'm going to start playing with my setup and I'll share it with you guys. My main problem is hesitation when I begin to accelerate.

I have noticed that the timing retard kicks in and that's when the hesitation (sticking point) is, but once I get passed that spot and increase the throttle, it pulls hard.

Also, I didn't buy that oxygen sensor for closed-loop operation yet. If you got your's from Summit, which one? Do you have a part number? I've seen some optional O2 sensor's in catalogs, but I'm not if it's going to be the correct piece. Hrc sells it, but didn't you guys said their's cost a little more?

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

I wouldnt waste my money on that, I removed mine cause it wasnt doing anything worthwhile, and when I had a new downpipe fabricated, I just didnt weld in an 02 bung for it and changed the DFI settings to run open loop. Gas milage has stayed the same(sucks, but who cares)...

I've got the numbers at home, I'll send 'em to you.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

check your throttle enrichment. it may be set too high.

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

Thanks guys! I'll check the throttle enrichment% tomorrow. Also, the only reason I want another O2 sensor is because I'd like to see the A/F ratio percentage to assist with tuning.

Brad, you took your DFI O2 off? If you still have it laying around, I'll take if off your hands So, you're saying it didn't help much with gas mileage? Right now, my gas mileage really sucks. I only get like 18-19 mpg, if I don't gun it that much.

What kind of gas mileage are you guys getting with your stage 4 or 5 setup?

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Well I did notice a difference w/ the o2 in. Both w/ sticky spots while cursing and on fuel consumption.

W/o the o2 and not romping on it I would get like 250-270 miles out of a tank.

W/ the o2 I get like 35-45 more miles out of the tank.

When I would get those sticky spots in open loop I would just give the power tuner a little tap in adjustment and it would go away.

I’ve been running in open loop because something is wrong w/ my o2 AGAIN! It was working fine for two months but on the laptop the o2 is reading .1-.2v while my o2 gauge for the car is saying .98-.96v and the car is running like it is at .98-.96. So something isn’t right someplace in the wiring or something.

I am going to get real into these maps because I am broke and have nothing else to do on my car at the moment. I will post them and the results that I get. I know every car is different but you could always do a little tweaking w/ them to get them to run right for your car. Especially between Greg, Kon, and myself as we all have almost all the same mods.

I ordered my o2 from HRC, its just a Accel 02 three wire one

Does anyone have the HRC fuel map for +20 psi? I'd like to try and run 20-22psi saturday. I did a search for it, but Brad's screen shot didn't show. Can someone please email me or post one? Thanks!

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

You shouldn't need a new map for 20psi. The map goes up to 30psi, if I remember right.

Also, Armonds post about throttle enrichment got me to thinking about how my car billows black smoke when I get on it hard. But if I lean out the power tuner (WOT), power decreases dramatically on the top end. So last night I leaned out the MAP and TPS enrichment tables, and this morning my smoke cloud was much less noticeable. The car also seems to transtition to partial throttle better no as well. Thanks for the knock in the head Armond!

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

Yep the stage 4 map from HRC is MORE than enough for 20+.

Armond, I reduced my TPS and MAP slightly, and my car does transition a little smoother. Also, as for the WOT fuel map for 20+ psi, has anyone dyno'd or played with that fuel map? I know it's always better to run on the richer side, but I'm just worried that it might be on the leaner side--say, if I were to run 25 psi

Does any of you guys have this problem? For the most part, my car idles fine. According to my digital air/fuel meter, it idles around .95-.97V, but it will intermittenly drop to .089 or .569 or something, as if the car's going to cut off, then it'll go back to .95-.97V, and the cycle repeats. Any ideas? I can't pinpoint if it's an ignition issue or a DFI problem.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Let me put it this way, at 18psi and 104 octane I was getting 1.04v a/f at WOT. WOT on the power control box was set at 0%
Of course I leaned it out on my second run.
I was also getting .98v A/F on 24psi and WOT, power control box richened like 5%. So the stage 4 fuel map is more than enough.

About your idle issues, try the o2 sensor out. I know Brad didn’t like it but I noticed a WORLD of difference. There are no more sticky spots in partial throttle, the DFI adjusts your fuel for you like the stock ECU, so it will cycle back and forth like a stock ECU would. Rather than having your idle set at .95v+ it bounces back and forth and you save all that gas. The plugs look normal after the o2 install, before they would always be full of carbon. EGT's are also a tad higher at cursing speeds. And I get NO black cloud of smoke w/ it on. The car would run well in open loop but daily driven I say go w/ the o2 and close loop. Just my 2 cents.