I recently upgraded to forged pistons(8.5:1) and Crower rods? I'm running the HRC FPR and fuel pump. I've noticed that I no longer get detonation at 10psi, like I did before the upgrade. How much higher can I go safely with this set-up?

pcaso1

not much higher, you should probably stay at 10 for daily driving and could possible bump it up to 12-15 or so for a race but I wouldnt until you have something to adj. timing. You really need to hit a dyno with wideband tuner to see what else you can do. but Hahn recommends 8-10 with stage 2 and forged internals

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

You shouldn't run more than 10 psi, until you upgrade you fuel system -- injectors, pump, fuel controller. Even with forged internals, the engine won't last too long if you're not retarding timing, and have the above setup.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

Just upgrade your injectors to 30lbs(315cc). With that you should be able to run 13 psi with the HRC regulator and pump. I'm gonna be running 10 psi on stock internals with 315cc injects and it will be all tuned perfectly with the SFMU. I'll see how long the motor lasts with it like this..the first thing to go will be the head gasket i'm sure..just keep it tuned real good.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Hey XtremeRS, did you make some sort of shield for your 1G SMIC? The IC pipes on mine are not very cool and I wanted to know if you have the same problems. I think that maybe my underhood temp is too high and that's part of my problem. I just want some more input on how your 1g is holding up. BTW I'm 5psi w/ 1500-1600 on the EGT on top of 3rd gear.

Shit is all apart. Typical...

I wouldn't boost much higher than 10psi until you upgrade your injectors, and have some sort of controller for them ie. s-afc. I am always a little on the conservative side though because I hate replacing stuff before I am ready.

99'Black GS OZ Edition

I have everything (see my sig) and I am running 11 psi daily driving. Just to be safe. As soon as my head gets done and we redo my fuel setup and exhaust I will put it at 15 for daily driving, or maybe more.

Brynden

with a built motor, you need more fuel, and with more fuel you can boost it up past 10psi... also need to retard timing once it occurs from blowin your pretty motor... i got 315cc injec now(will upgrade to 440cc later) and ignition to retard timing, i am doing 9psi mostly all the time with stock internals.. i think im going to boost it up to 12psi max and if i blow, oh well im tired of being slow =(... but yah fuel and timing with a built motor is what you need...




Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

Brynden, your website is pretty cool. What part of texas you from? I'm from San Antonio. And I have some question with the MSD hookup. I just can't get it right. If you're close maybe we can hook up one day and you can show me where and how exactly to wire it up.

>Hey XtremeRS, did you make some sort of shield for your 1G
>SMIC? The IC pipes on mine are not very cool and I wanted to
>know if you have the same problems. I think that maybe my
>underhood temp is too high and that's part of my problem. I
>just want some more input on how your 1g is holding up. BTW
>I'm 5psi w/ 1500-1600 on the EGT on top of 3rd gear.

Yeah, actually I did make some metal air sheilding on my IC. The way the IC mounted in there, it was kind of inbetween the fog opening and the other bumper opening. So since I am an RS, with no fogs, i took off the black fog housing, and put some mesh in that opening, along with mesh in the other opening. Then i took some roof flashing and constructed some air deflectors so that air coming into those openings is getting directed to the IC. I have this metal on both sides of the openings, and it leads to each side of the IC, then another piece at the top of the IC. So this makes all air go directly into the IC, instead of going over part of it, or around it. Its working great, and my outlet pipe of my IC is always pretty cool, at least always cooler then the intake pipe. Before i did any of this, my outlet and the whole IC was getting heat soaked...I can try and take some pics, its hard getting in there though...let me know..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I thought I could get away w/o making something b/c my WW Agressor front is pretty open. I think that I'll make something anyway as soon as I can find time.

Shit is all apart. Typical...

I am running 15 psi on mine but I keep braking stuff. first it was the clutch now it is the headgasket. But I used the stock used head bolts when I did the rebuild because I didnt know better. My ARP's and new gasket should be here this weeek though. Once you run 15 psi you cant run anything less. I will run atleast 15 psi on my car and nothing less. I also have 440cc injectors and s-afc on 8:6 compression.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

Wait til you hit 20psi. I want to run race gas all the time now, so I can jet around at 28 psi.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

Yeah, high PSI is nice, but remember kids, high psi = high dollar fixes I am just boosting 15psi around town right now with no retard setup.. till I can work out the current kinks I have, i.e. stripped exhaust manifold bolt hole threads = boost leak(but the turbo screams like a deamon cause it has to work harder)... and an intermitten starting problem,sometimes she starts, sometimes she doesnt, gotta love the world of high performance.

me and chris both had the starting problem. I think chris is right. havign that dfi in there does affect the coltage regulator in some way. I just put in an external voltage regulator. fixed the problem righ tup. a constant 14.6 volts "at all times"........even when the stereo is blasting my brains out.

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

Armond grabbed a voltage regulator from a bigger ford and now has none of the electrical problems associated with it. Makes a difference and cheap.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise

I am gonna have to try that out, cause I have went through 3 Optima red tops the past few years and alts cause of the batteries wearing out or some shit... Guess only the accel crowd is having this prob it seems. I have no clue what I am looking for at Autozone, but hopefully they will, haha.

Go to a junkyard and dig one up from a ford truck. You just need something bigger than what you have now.

05 Mazda RX-8
06 Lotus Elise