i did everything but soder the wires, i know they're connected and reading right though because i attached a volt meter inside the car and ran the wiring to the map sensor. at idle it's outputting 1.9v, at 0 psi and above it's outputting 4.69v which is perfect but the symptoms are still the same. as long as i don't floor it it runs fine at any rpm at any psi (i can hit about 6-7psi) but if i floor (doesn't matter what psi) the car will hit fuel cut at 4000 rpms.

turned out i didn't have a spare tps like i thought, but i'm going to try and replace that as soon as i can. any other possibilities?? i know the missing link is working and all the MAP stuff has been ruled out as a cause.

-bryan
'98 rst

check to make sure your stock pump, and inline if so is working..got to see it to give u more advice

Michael 99gs
Mods:
Hrc Stage 2
S-FMU
315cc injectors
Crane HI-6DI2
Greddy Type S Bov
VC-2
Road Race Catch Can
Greddy Profec B & Switch
Apexi WS Catback
Super Afc
Autometer Boost, electric fuel, Egt, Tranny Temp Gauge & Cooler, Air/Fuel Light & Digital
Tokico Adjust Struts
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Front & Rear Upper Bar
2 piston calipers(front), powerslot rotors, r4-s pads, & rre lines
CarCraft Interior
Sound System= Bring it On

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

i think it has to do w/ the fuel because i unhooked the charge pipe and the car ran fine, weather i was flooring it or not. that means it has to be boost related, and i KNOW it's not the map sensor at this point. thx for the info, i'm taking it into the shop to see if any parts have broken that would need to be replaced under warrantee (like the fuel pump which was busted last time).

-bryan
'98 rst

I wanna bump it cuz I am trying to help him out and we are STUMPED!!!!

We have looked at his car for over a week and can't figure it.....

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

JohannS07

97 GS (daily driver), 90 TSi AWD (toy)

You really need to get a nice fuel pump like the walbro intank. Its only $119 I think from Howell. Then you know it isnt the fuel.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

i'll be able to buy one in a few weeks and i will, trust me on this one. but not even the shop that designed the kit knows what's wrong, this is rediculous. i just changed my sparkplugs gapped to just about .028 and that didn't help either. i tried getting one step colder but nobody in town sells them. i'm not getting ANY cel's and it drives perfectly, i just can't boost more than 3psi, and 3psi in 3rd gear and up i can't floor it, other wise FUEL CUTS OUT THE PEeHOLE. seriously, money is being sent to the person who offers up a new idea that is the cause to this stupidness. i'm so pissed off w/ this.

again, for people who haven't seen or heard my bitching lately, here's what i've done to try to remedy the situation:

*changed the plugs
*checked the resistance of the wires (well below 8ohms, w/in spec)
*changed the MAP sensor (about 3x)
*changed o2 (about a month ago)
*checked compression (210 x4)
*bought (and returned) a vc2 (i KNOW it was installed correctly AND *set to the correct voltage)
*bought the synapse missing link check valve (read voltage during driving, it never gets above 4.69v, still on the car)
*i don't get any CELs
*my fuel pump is a month old (msd inline, the 1st one died -not sure why either)
*i've adjusted the cartech fpr to countless settings (i'm going to get a fuel press guage tomorrow so i know what it's doing at least)

-bryan
'98 rst

Have you checked the vac line going to the FPR? Is it tight, and leak free? What about the check valve on the vac line? Is the white end hooked up to the vac line? Can you blow through the white end of the check valve? Def check your fuel pressures..just sounds like a fuel reltated prob to me..Also, if you had hooked up the vc2 incorrectly, it *could* have damaged you ecu..Not too sure how likely that would be, but electronic circuits can be very sensitive to incorrect wiring..If all else fails, try another ecu..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

At least TRY soldering the MAP wires.



________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

most likely its your cartech FPR, yea get the fp gauge and monitor that bad boy, i've herd bad stories about that regulator

I am pretty sure the VC1 did not damage anything. When I had my install incorrectly my car would start and then die, no idle. So if it is idling I would guess that the VC1 is installed correctly. I hope this gets rid of one possibility.

Brynden

Make sure your wastegate is actually opening. Trust me.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Do you have an EGT? What does it read at 3psi? If fuel cut is a prob, which this does sound fuel related, I bet you get higher EGT's due to the lack of fuel. I've heard nothing but bad news from the Cartech. I'm gonna guess that it's your fuel pressure. I do have an extra VC-1 if you want to try it, but that doesn't sound like that is it.

Shit is all apart. Typical...

wow, good response time guys. this morning dirving to work i got my first CEL in about 2 weeks, my front o2 seems to think i'm running lean. i ordered a fuel press guage from summit it will be here friday and on my car friday nite, that way i can rule out fuel press problems. thanks again for all the responses, MUCH LOVE.


XtremeRS: i'm pretty sure all the lines are still hooked up rite, there weren't any leaks a day ago. and what check valve are you talking about?

Fast420A: i did, but the wires are a bit nubby at this point, and it was kindof hard to do in the dark. if the fuel isn't the problem i'll go back to the MAP this weekend, but i'm not getting any cel's for a messed up map, usually when it's not installed properly my car doesn't even start let alone run fine.

brynden29: thx, yeh, i don' think the ECU is dead, but if it is i know of an avenger in the local junkyard.

DarkOne: would that cause fuel cuts? maybe a lack of boost...


Erik : NO i don't have an egt. i know, hit me. thats why i'm workin thou, so i can get one. and thx for the offer, but i know the vc2 was setup correctly. i think it's the fuel pressure.

i talked to armond yesterday and he said that i could be running so much fuel pressure that i'm flooding the engine causing the ECU to cut fuel and causing the o2 to read lean b/c of all the air/unburt fuel coming out which would also cause my rear bumper to be as black as it is. we'll see what happens. thans again for all the help.

-bryan
'98 rst

I think its the fuel filter!!! Did you replace it lately?

You *should have a vac check valve on the Cartech FPR. On the brass boost adjustment screw, there should be a T fitting that comes off of the brass boots adjustment screw from the side, and a short vac line hooked to this fitting. On the end of the vac line, there should be a check valve. It should be half white, and half black. The vac line should be hooked up to the white end of the valve. The function of this valve is to let boosted pressure inside the FPR to escape, to bleed off pressure, but to not let any vacum come back into it during non boosted operation. If you dont have one on there, it will basically act as a vac leak when you are under normal engine vac. Under boost, it won't really matter too much.. Although it may freak out the FPR when the car is not under boost, since it is a vac leak, and the static pressures of the FPR may not stay constant, and they could fluctuate. When i installed my used kit, my FPR was totally messed up..I was getting 130+ psi of fuel pressure at not even 5 psi of boost..I took the FPR apart,and cleaned it, and it works much better now, but not perfect..The new Vortech SFMU will be here in a week or so..much better than the Cartech FPR. And SOLDER your MAP connection!!! A bad connection here will mess things up for you, as a bad connection will give false readings, and tell the computer different voltages than what it should be..

EDIT: If you have the newer billet FPR from HRC, then you may not need the vac check valve...If its the older cartech, then you will need it..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

there's no check valve on there, where can i get one, HRC?

-bryan
'98 rst

anyone have any manufactures info in that cartech fpr, i know some have problems, but i have one that was used for a few weeks that i am gonna try and unload onto ebay, but i need some specs or something if anyone can help out shoot me a line.

I saw a check valve at NAPA that looked just like the one that came with Kris's Cartech FPR.

The check valve is the white and black thing with a tube on it.






________________________________________________________________________________________
current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/
www.Fast420A.com

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...