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From talkign to you, and knowing yoru setup,and what kind of timing your car gives, you wre probably getting a LOT of knock at 10 psi with no timing retard, which was destroying the "adiabaticness" (.......all the engineers know what I am trying to say, asn adabatic-ness isn't a word) of your cylinder and you were acutally transfering a LOT of heat through yoru cylnder walls, head and pistons. this is "bad". This is what makes heat spots in cylinder walls and what melts aluminum pistons. since the heat is leaving the cylinders via teh hard parts, less is exiting through the exhaust (where it should exit) and you saw 1550 on your egt. Once again, this will put a hole through one....or all of your pistons and flatten out your rod and main bearings. once you retarded timing, you probably found your car was too lean to begin with at that temperature and all the excess heat caused by detonation and normal combustion left via the exhaust ports at alarming temperatures (beyond 1650). once you richen it up, you shoudl be able to acheve an even 1600 on cylinders 2 and 3 and 1550 on cylinders 1 and 4. It is best to tune on a dyno, and always know that unless you are running glue for gassoline, 30 degrees of timing and 10 psi on 8.5:1 compression pistons just doesn't mix. most of this is explained on my site.
A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on............
A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........
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