I CANT get it under 120psi fuel pressure. If I still had my AFC I would just lean it down but it broke so what can I do? I have the Cartech junk FPR knob all the way out. I even tried taking that little thing off that HRC provides so you dont get dirt in FPR to get more vacuum but it didnt help. Once again, im gonna be calling HRC in 2 hours as soon as they open.

Robert Parkhurst
toykilla@comcast.net

is your check valve on the regulator installed backwards? Thats the only thing that I can think of that would do that.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Um.. the brass knob all the way out? Or the hex locking nut in the center?

Afaik:

Hex in middle: For adjusting idle fuel press. (minimum)
In/clockwise is "Raise"
Out/counterclockwise is "Lower"

Brass knob: For adjusting WOT/boost fuel press. (maximum)
In/clockwise is "Lower"
Out/counterclockwise is "Raise"

You'll also get high fuel pressure if you've got the vacuum lines mixed up (little check valve goes into brass bleeder valve), or there is no/low vacuum. Check your boost gauge and make sure it reads around -20in.hg. at idle.

One last thing: on the bottom of the FPR, the port marked "IN" goes to fuel press and fuel rail T, and "OUT" goes to fuel return line/tank, right?

>Brass knob: For adjusting WOT/boost fuel press. (maximum)
>In/clockwise is "Lower"
>Out/counterclockwise is "Raise"

It's counterclockwise to lower according to HRC instructions.
When the knob is all the way "in" clockwise, I am getting around 140psi fuel pressure.

>You'll also get high fuel pressure if you've got the vacuum
>lines mixed up (little check valve goes into brass bleeder
>valve), or there is no/low vacuum. Check your boost gauge
>and make sure it reads around -20in.hg. at idle.

Vacuum should be 15-17 according to Chilton Manual. Its installed correctly. When I first installed it, it worked perfectly under boost and all messed up at idle. Now its perfect at idle and all messed up under boost.

Robert Parkhurst
toykilla@comcast.net

Oops, yah, you're right... I remember it says the brass valve "bleeds off boost pressure" so the FPR sees less boost and raises the FP less on boost. So, yah, counterclockwise to lower.

Sorry bout that
Dan

while on the topic of vaccum. what vacum do you guys see at idle? 15-17? cuz i usually see a lil past 10. and with the lil brass knob on the side of the hrc fpr i tighten it all the way down and only get to 85 psi fuel pressure at full boost(about 8 psi) sup with that?? thnx for any help


"Proud to be, a 2gnt"


-mitsuman

Turbo:
1. HRC STG 2
2. Blits SS BOV
3. HKS Turbo timer

Exhaust:
1. Greddy Power Extreme

Ride:
1. Motegi MR7 17'' wrapped
in yokohama A550v
235/45/17

Sound:
1. sony xplod cdxm620 deck
2. 2 10'' audiobahn subs
3. nice shiny audiobahn
amp

In room:
1. blitz front end(thnx 2
eclipse804)
2. H&R sport springs(thnx 2
eclipse804)

Fun mods:
1. "Nozzel mod"

Wanted:
1. to much ish to list

-mitsuman 95 GS 5-spd w/97-99 front end
Repin The SoCal 2GNT'ers
mitsuman95@hotmail.com
AIM s/n : mitsuman95gs

You have a vacuum leak. Check all the connections on the back of the manifold, especially the one going to your boost gauge. That's the one that got me.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

well one thing i noticed was that when i put in my boost guage the line would bend a lil cousing the boost guage to read boost. i think this is why when i turn off my car it sits at like almost 3 psi of boost. could this be messin up my vaccum signal? and i went outside and turned her on and its actually running 9 vaccum. and is a vaccum leak really bad? im gunna be headed to wurk in a couple min so im not gunna be here til around 8. but thnx for the help.


"Proud to be, a 2gnt"


-mitsuman

Turbo:
1. HRC STG 2
2. Blits SS BOV
3. HKS Turbo timer

Exhaust:
1. Greddy Power Extreme

Ride:
1. Motegi MR7 17'' wrapped
in yokohama A550v
235/45/17

Sound:
1. sony xplod cdxm620 deck
2. 2 10'' audiobahn subs
3. nice shiny audiobahn
amp

In room:
1. blitz front end(thnx 2
eclipse804)
2. H&R sport springs(thnx 2
eclipse804)

Fun mods:
1. "Nozzel mod"

Wanted:
1. to much ish to list

-mitsuman 95 GS 5-spd w/97-99 front end
Repin The SoCal 2GNT'ers
mitsuman95@hotmail.com
AIM s/n : mitsuman95gs

My car does the same thing, I have my HRC FPR brass nob turned all the way out. And it will not go under about 120psi at full boost(9psi). Does that mean I have a vaccume leak too? Can running to rich lets say 120-130psi. be harmful? Going to the track tonight so I just figured I would throw in my 2 cents.
Thanks,
Patrick

Patrick
96 GS
13.54 @ 106.94 mph on 15psi 21 May.04
HRC kit, S20G, FMIC, Howell bottom end 8.6 pistons, S-FMU, Blitz BOV, P&P head, SS valves, lots more little goodies

Like I said above, I bet you have your check valve installed backwards so the FPR cant bleed boost off. The check valve is the black and white plastic piece that connects to the vacuum line that connects to the FPR right under the little brass knob. you want to connect the side that you can blow through to the vacuum line that runs to the FPR and leave the other side of the check valve open to the atmosphere.

If the valve is installed backwards, the FPR cant relieve pressure when at full boost and it will cause a vacuum leak at idle. This will give you low vacuum numbers at idle and high fuel pressures at WOT. If this is the case for any of you, then you will need to re-tune your base fuel pressure once you fix it since you will have more vacuum. You will also then be able to drop your WOT fuel pressure by backing off the little brass knob.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...