i am in the market for a bottom end to purchase seperately to build my motor on so i dont have to remove my engine to do it. ive contacted one person who has one for sale (dualgen) and am wondering what all the two of us should be checking up on regarding the motors condition? i remember asking someone a while back about this and the guy who is going to build it for me told me to check two things on the bottom end to make sure they were in good shape, otherwise it was worthless. i cant remember the two things he told me to check...i wanna say thrust or something was one of them...

dave: im not trying to go behind your back with this, i think myself and you should both be assured that the bottom end is in perfectly adequate shape to use before i buy it...if someone can tell me what these points to check are i would appreciate it. then, you can check them dave and make sure everything is all good. if so we can get this done.

so after checking this, are there any other parts i should get from him besides the bottom end? i assume its all still in one piece so i will be best off buying it all from him rather than asking him to seperate it and send me the block and crank only...i can do something with his bad pistins and rods i guess.

and does anyone know how much the bottom end weighs/costs to ship?

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

it cost a friend of mine 65 dollars to ship an entire long block...TB to turbo from New Jersey to Upstate New York. Not sure if that helps much, but you can see roughly how much it would cost to ship something smaller a little further away...

I JUST finished shipping a block and crank from NC to me in FL. Just the empty block and bedplate weighed in at 114 lbs and cost $75 for UPS ground. The crank, 2 pistons/rods and a box of bolts weighed 65 lbs and cost $25 to ship.



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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

I got mine for $50 from New York to Kansas. Check thrust bearing(side to side spec) and I would say bore diameter. I say those two mainly (just FYI crap you can stop reading here!) because if something made the bore diameter out of whack then something is wrong. If you want to bore something .20 over and you take it over to have it done and your engine has a cylinder that is already .25 over from piston/rod failure, then your up shit's creek to find pistons that can fit the bigger bore that will now be made (prob would go to .40 over or sleeveing are your other options) Thrust bearings only really reveal the amount of movement side to side that the crank or "walking crank". This is pretty important because this can potentially cause premature bearing failure (I mean all lower end bearings, not just that one). I've built many different engines. Feel free to hit me up with any questions you got. If you get a short block, and there are many metal shavings, be cautious and figure out exactly where they came from. A machine shop can fix almost anything but do you really want to pay to have it done?

Shit is all apart. Typical...

thanks, so my question now is, is it possible for the thrust bearing or bore diameter to be out of whack if there was no actual engine failure? i mean, under normal usage, without spinning any bearings, cracking pistons, or throwing rods, could those two things have gotten messed up and david not knowing about it when he removed his engine?

1995 Eclipse GS - HRC Stage 2 - Retired.
2004 350z Enthusiast / 2008 Nissan Versa SL

I'm not too sure, but don't oversize pistons like .020 over, have that number stamped on the piston tops? That way anyone can tell if the block has been bored out any before. Anyone confirm this? Thats what i thought anyway.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I am thinking about doing this myself. Sounds like a good idea. I like the fact that I can build my bottom end while I still am driving my car around. I really cant afford to have my car down for longer than a couple days at most.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4