No boost yet but hell I got some gauges and free time so why not. A/F gauge install went smoothly and works just like everyone said it would. But now I know why no shops recommend autometers boost gauge. The crap it comes with for the install is disgraceful. You CANT install this gauge with the tubing and silly compression reducers it comes with. If you like this gauge do yourself a favor and get the Extreme motorsports boost gauge install kit $10. Cant say you werent warned. Anyway I installed everything except the vacuum hose into the engine bay. Reason being I have no idea of where to run the silicon tubing into the engine bay. Now I could run it thru the factory opening where I run my amp wire ect but thats on the passenger side and seems like a long way to run a vacuum hose (and an additional trip to the store). The Extreme directions with the install kit say cut the boot where the steering column passes the firewall but I dont want to cut that. Which if any route did you guys take? I'm anxious to read some vacuum (since thats all I can read for now).
I hooked the red wire to the cigarette lighter wire (blue). The black wire to the nearest ground and ran the purple wire to the white wire with black stripe on the ECU. Thats pretty much it. Peace of cake. As far as readings I get everything from first red led (lean) on deceleration to the last three green leds at full throttle. During cruise and part throttle its just entertainment going back and forth.
#1754, "This is what i did..." In response to Reply # 0
I ran the vacuum line down my a-pillar gauge cluster (my boost gauge is at the top), out the bottom of the a-pillar, under the plastic trim bordering the door, out the door, under the edge of the front quarter panel (there a gap between the panel and the body that's just big enough), out right under the hood, past the hood hinge, and to a tee in line with the FMU. It doesn't actually run though any holes in the firewall, it just goes around it. I get good readings, too, so i guess the door won't crimp it shut. (it's thickass vacuum line, though, real small hole) .. like a nice solid 20 in.HG ..
I can take pictures if ya want 'em.
-DarkOne I'm so bad, i should be in detention.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#1755, "RE: This is what i did..." In response to Reply # 5
Hey DarkOne,
I would like to see some pics of your install. I was also considerin on putting my uage in the door panel like Corbin did with his, but was worried about if the door hinge crimped the vac. tube.
#1756, "RE: This is what i did..." In response to Reply # 5
Hey DarkOne,
I would like to see some pics of your install. I was also considerin on putting my guage in the door panel like Corbin did with his, but was worried about if the door hinge crimped the vac. tube.
I put my guage line through the steering column boot. I think that's where the HRC instructions recommended and there's absolutely no risk there of crimping. It already has great rubber entry point, so it's both a great sealing point, but non-abrasive. I run almost all my wires through that point!
Consider it guys!
Jason 98' Eagle Talon ESi-T Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)
Well maybe I'll run it through the steeriing column boot after all. I tried the through the door jam just as you did but it didn't seem too sound as far as protection from getting pinched and asthetically.
Well I went ahead and finished it today. You, Extreme and HRC were right the steering column boot was a good choice. I still had to run and get more silicon hose and remove the battery but its cleanly installed and well protected. I used a piece of hanger with the tubing attached to feed it into the engine bay. Must be great to see it go past zero. For now I just pretend zero is 6psi and -20 is zero psi. At least all my gauges are moving.
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