Believe me, I did search before I post. But still need help.
Because sometimes my car runs like bogging or hesitation at low throttle,I installed vc-2 in my car last night, and it ran fine. But today I almost can not fire my motor without hitting the pedal....I brought my car to a shop, after they reset my car with datalogger, the check engine lights off. They said because my S-AFC was fighting with the VC-2 , so the ECU doesn't know what to do...But after I left the shop for a while, the check engine lights on again.......the CEL code are 12 61 14....(I got the code 61 right after installed the turbo) .I set the VC-2 to V4.7 , so it shouldn't be too high..... Is it really that the S-AFC is not compatible with VC-2 ??? Please help!!!

Eric

Try running your car with the Check sensor screen of the S-AFC. See what happens. If you get the normal 1.0-4.7 volts fluctuation during driving, you know your cpu is seeing the right numbers. If not, then perhaps you can narrow your problem down.

Have you tried disconnecting one or the other? I always do that and try to isolate the problem and work from there. Take off the VC-2 qand work backwards and then forwards again. I could see a situation where you may have wired something incorrectly.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

here's a question that may or may not be related to the problem... is the vc2 supposed to go inline before the s-afc or after? in other words, is the s-afc also limited to seeing 4.7 volts or is it allowed to see the full range and only the ecu gets the clamped signal?

>here's a question that may or may not be related to the
>problem... is the vc2 supposed to go inline before the
>s-afc or after? in other words, is the s-afc also limited
>to seeing 4.7 volts or is it allowed to see the full range
>and only the ecu gets the clamped signal?

that's the question that I have now. I have VC2 and it's still throwing ocde at me. BTW, i have vc2 inline before the afc.

I have to assume it operates just as the HRC FCD and VC-1 does. It installs right by the map sensor, so therefore before the S-AFC. (i.e. MAP sensor ---> FCD -----> S-AFC ---> ECU )

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

I know the hrc fcd hooks up at the map sensor but I think the vc-1 hooks up at the ecu. At least thats the way it is on my freinds star kit. The hrc fcd is a lot easier to install and it works great for me. Its just 2 wires.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

i have the vc-2 pre set at 4.7v and also a super afc hooked up! i have my vc-2 hooked up at the ecu and i cut the wire closer to the map sensor, but it would not matter. make sure you got all the wires hooked up correct and a good ground... check your map voltage using your afc like someone said mine says around 4.68-4.7v in boost
cool
Michael 99gs- hrc stage 2

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

later I'll double check the wires agian,coz it's raining outside .....

after the shop erased the code for me yesterday, I saw the voltage of MAP from S-AFC was 4.7V when WOT, and car ran perfect, no hesitation. But a while later, the enging check lights on....and I observed the voltage of MAP only can reach 4.65V only when WOT(7 psi), sometimes can reach 4.67v(rarely)....and little bit hesitation again. you think the new VC-2 is broken? or the mapper is broken? or the S-AFC didn't hook well???

Eric

my map sensor voltage drops a bit sometimes also... you can swap out your map sensor if you know someone who has the same car as you and test it out... it looks like the vc-2 does not hold its clamp but its just like mine as far as output... just make sure your wires are hooked up right!
cool
Michael 99gs- hrc stage 2

Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

one more question...I am getting the 440 injectors and SFMU, coz I want to run 8psi at daily driving and 13~15 psi when racing, so should I still use VC-2?

You will always need some sort of voltage clamp until or unless you go with a standalone ECU or a check valve system. Either way, your stock ecu should never see boost (i.e. more than 4.79 map sensor volts) or it'll go bonkers (i.e. fuel cut).

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

>You will always need some sort of voltage clamp until or
>unless you go with a standalone ECU or a check valve system.
> Either way, your stock ecu should never see boost (i.e.
>more than 4.79 map sensor volts) or it'll go bonkers (i.e.
>fuel cut).

so can I use check valves to bleed off the boost instead of VC2??

You'll have to do some rigging on the intake plenum where the map sensor mounts, but it certainly is possible. But remember, it's a mechanical way of solving your problem as opposed to an electrical method. To me, not only are electrical devices preferred over mechanical ones, it always seems easier to remedy an electrical problem as opposed to a mechanical ones.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

I forget offhand whta 14 is, but you are probably getting an "improper range" code from the ecu. i fyour ecu doesn't register s certain ammount of pressure in the intake manifold at wot, or your map output is off by a LONG shot, then you will throw an imporper range curve.

A.D.P.
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

So what would you do to fix this???

Mark Dollar
Stage 3-4 Turbo
See my White Avenger @
WWW.Armond30.com

raise the voltage.

A.D.P.
bring it on............

A.D.P.
"...If you do too much, people become dependant. If you do to little, people loose hope. If you do it right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all."
bring it on...........

sorry for the late reply...
Today on my way to school, I saw the voltage of MAP from SAFC was high to 4.8V and 4.9V two times...why? the new VC2 doesn't work? so I just tried to solder the wires today and also checked all the wires that were connected to SAFC and ECU if they are connected well. But first time I went out for test driving, and I tried to WOT , later the check engine light on again, code are 12 14(wried,61 was gone). I went back and checked all the wire , and make sure all the wire are really soldered or connected well, then I went out to run again. This time I just tried to boost a little bit, maybe just 1 or 2 psi or less, sadly the goddamn light on again, and code were 12 61 14(61 was back). So I went back to check the instructions of SAFC, VC2 that anything can help me to figure out the problem,and also dobule check all these wires, but it is really over my head. so I gave up coz it was almost 1:00 am in the moring, I erased the code then went home. This time I drove around 20~40 mph without any boost, the vacuum was always under 0, and the voltage of MAP was under 3.5V all the way home. Then the check engine light was not on right now. So that's mean I can't BOOST??..............>_<..............
Do you guys know what's the problem??? The MAP is broken? or I have to low the voltage of VC2????Help...........



Eric

if your check engine light only comes on when you boost, then you're VC2 is set to high. turn it down a bit.

btw - anybody know which way to turn that screw for up/down???

Those days I have been observed the A/F gauge and boost gauge and SAFC while I was driving.

There are couple things weird. First, when I turn on my car, the A/F gauge goes very lean, and raise little bit by little bit while I'm hitting the pedal. As it goes rich, almost takes 1 mins. Second, I found every time the car becomes hesitation is always happened when the boost gauge shows the vaccum value is 2 or 3 (I think it always happened before boost). If I boost from vaccum is 15-20, then it would be no problem ,but if I keep cruising at vaccum is 2 or 3(actully I can't really tell the exactly value, just between 0-5 in vaccum), then the bogging(I felt more like fuel cut)happened again, and when it happened, the O2 senor' voltage goes to 0.000V and the A/F gauge goes lean and it is at round 3000 RPM(below 4000 rpm)... The third, I looked my map senor's voltage is around 4.65V~0.5V(sometimes)...is it too low( below 1.0V)