I've got a star stage 2 setup and I recently fried the rings on my pistons. I took out my motor and decided to build it. I currently have a machine shop bore out my bottom end .020 over using JE pistons. I also purchased a new complete engine gasket kit, timing belt, water pump, rod bearings, Centerforce clutch, AFX pulley, AEM cam gears, and Denso Iridium plugs. The machine shop is also redoing my valves. They're installing some shims under my valves to lessen backpressure. I didn't purchase crower/eagle rods and just kept my stock rods. Reason being, is because I heard that the stock rods are strong enough to handle approx. 13 psi What do you guys think? I honestly have ZERO $$$ for a set of new rods. please lemme know what you guys think. Thanks in advance.

>They're installing some shims under my valves to lessen
>backpressure.

Huh? Can you explain how they are going to do this and what it is going to do for you?






______________________________
current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

You can do whatever you want. Get a CC. sell your liver or something. 1) your machinest might not like you much if he has to mate the JE pistons to your rods( I hear they are a tad diff but I could be wrong)
2) our rods are fairly stout for being NT rods and can handle about 300 horses, prob NOT on a daily basis. Eagle rods are 350 bucks. Take a loan out for it. You'll have it paid off, and you won't have to pay to have stuff re machined later.

Shit is all apart. Typical...

I'd say sell the afx, and the aem cam gears and put in some rods. No reason to do it again later and pay twice

Yeah I agree, the cam gears and pulley are not as important as the rods.




______________________________
current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

well the stock rods have to be rebushed for the larger and floating pin but nothing that didn't take the place I went a morning to do. I dont know exactly how much the stock rods can take but lets just say they will take 11psi from time to time (dont ask) and 10psi every day.

A cheaper solution is to have them shotpeened and polished. I'm not sure if balancing helps strength but the whole thing isnt but around $50 a rod (I paid to have all that done but dont know if they actually did all that or just threw em back in as is). Still thats $200 and Eagles rods are only $350. After all the money you spent already it would be ashamed to let $350 hold you back especially if you plan on really pushing it in the future. I bought my engine parts 3yrs ago when 420A rods weren't so common, easy to find and cheap(and I was out of $$ too).

:farfrommugen:
Yes I still own a 2gnt.
Damn right I've been here longer than U
klassic_liven@yahoo.com

hey quicksilver how did u fry your rings? What boost were you pushing?
-Dave

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

I was boosting 10psi. I had disgusting blowby all over my throttle body, battery, hood and windshield. I was racing my brother's 94 TransAm on the freeway when I fried the rings. I honestly don't know what is involved when shimming the valves. The shop said they were gonna redo my valves.

I'm gonna go ahead and purchase a set of Eagle Rods. Does anyone know where I can find the cheapest set. I know howell automotive sells them for $350 but does that include bearings? I tried calling them but they're busy. Please lemme know where I should go to purchase a set for really cheap. The cheapest price I've gotten is $300 on ebay

Damn 10psi is high. I wouldnt go past 7-8 unless your on race gas. But I guess you know that now..LOL

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

Dam 10psi was awesome though. I have a turbo xs dual stage boost controller. I had the 2nd stage set at 9psi, but somehow I think that the cold weather caused the boost to go up. In addition, I also had my cat removed. Right after the downpipe nothing was restricting the flow.