Shit guys!!
If it isn't one thing it's another, if you read my post below, I got a Greddy BOV from my cousin for free. After painfully modifying it to adapt, i finally took out for a test drive this morning.

When I get on it alot and release it gives a loud "FLUB" than psh...(not that much louder than my 1st gen too)
When I drive on it moderately, it sounds like it's drowning "flub" "flub" flub

WHA THE FUCK!! I am so freaking tired of this damn thing, is the noise the air rushing back into the turbo?? DAMN man.....Help me out guys!


Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

You have to adjust the screw on top of the BOV. I have a greddy type s BOV and mine used to sound like shit when I first put it on. I adjusted the screw and its fine now.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

How does your type S sound? I'm concern because at moderate driving it flutters between shift. I'm not sure if it is compressor surge or not. At high boost it sounds fine.

Just curious!

kaiser

-K-

Here's the situation: Kaiser i'm sorta in the same boat as u

I went outside and messed around with the little soft/hard screw.

THe more you screw the bolt out the softer it gets correct?
The more you screw the bolt IN the harder it gets correct?

Well I have the gawddamn screw out and only hanging on by one or two threads and that shit still does the same thing at low RPMS, it flutters (turkey sounds), so to answer your question, Yes at low to moderate driving it flutters and flubs like a fish blowing bubbles (or so my girlfriend says), when I get up on it and drive it hard, it blows off fine but I still hear a slight Flub, one time. SHIT what the fuck!! I am sick and tired of dealing with this bullshit, I think all my lines are hooked up fine. I mean all the vacuum line goes to is my "T" that come out of my barb. ARGH!! I almost wanted to have kept my old BOV for all the trouble this is giving me!!
Help me out guys!!




Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

Mine used to sound great at low boost when I was stage 1. I think when you have a FMIC and you are only hitting 2-3 psi it sounds like a turkey for everyone. Mine does that too. I dont mind. It is still functioning properly. When I am at 6-7 psi its whistles nice and loud like it is supposed to. You have to remember that most cars that use BOV's are runnning anywhere from 10-30psi. I dont think BOV's really do much at 2-3 psi. And even if you didnt have a BOV there really wouldnt be any harm done to your turbo. Dont worry about it and just drive faster}>.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

Bro, do you have a number I can call you at??
I've always wanted to talk to you anyways, and this SHIET is pissing me off,
Isn't it bad to hear that gobble sound, that means that the air is just rushing back throughout your turbo system right?



Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

BTW if that is the case that "all" cars gobble at 2-3 psi, how come it didn't do that when I had my 1st gen bov?? Just a thought. Thanks for any info at all fellaz.



Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

My Greddy type S does the same shite. At lower boost, I hear one flub that a phssst. This became very apparent after I installed K&N FIPK. At full boost, I just get a normal phssst. I was all paranoid at first thinking it was compressor surge, and the vanes on the turbo would just shatter. But after loosening the screw most of the way, it still sounded like shite. If someone could provide an explanation, it would be greatly appreciated. My next step is to install a boost gauge: put on the original leaky p.o.s. BOV, see what I'm boosting, then re-install the Greddy Tpye S and adjust the screw so I'm boosting at 15psi.

98 GSX Power

Hey Grneclipse I emailed you about that...I had the same problem too with the BOV skitter. If you just put the filter directly onto the turbo it might solve your problem - it did for Rick (RAIZIN) if not what I did is take out one of the springs outta the BOV, readjust the screw and BAM - thang goes off like crazy. The only downside is that the valve is open at idle which ain't really bad cuz at no vaccumm or almost no vaccumm it is closed alowing the system to charge. I don't boost alot - I just hit 2-4 psi sometimes and normally drive barely at boost or maybe at 1. Yes I take it easy on my car but you take care of stuff when you gotta pay for it.

alvin

Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Did not get your e-mail,
However I find what you say to be very interesting, I just need some details on what you said:

<If you just put the filter directly onto the turbo it might solve your problem - it did for Rick (RAIZIN) >

I don't understand what the air filter (is that what you're talking about?) has to do with the bov, I mean my filter is already directly on it, isn't everybodies?

<if not what I did is take out one of the springs outta the BOV, readjust the screw and BAM - thang goes off like crazy.>

Alright, What springs are you talking about (sorry if I seem dumb, it's because I'm still turbo illiterate), All I know about the damn BOV is the soft/hard screw. and by BAM goes off like crazy, you mean it goes off normal?? It goes off normal now when I am in Park or Neutral, but as soon as I engage in driving it goes FLUB FLUB

<The only downside is that the valve is open at idle which ain't really bad cuz at no vaccumm or almost no vaccumm it is closed alowing the system to charge. I don't boost alot - I just hit 2-4 psi sometimes and normally drive barely at boost or maybe at 1. >

So what does this mean? That I would not hold boost if I adjusted it like that? Damn I'm confused, i think I understand what you're saying BUT, than again, I don't. Let me know. Thanks again Alvin


Yes I take it easy on my car but you take care of stuff when you gotta pay for it.


Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

Here's my number man.....407-929-4959. Its my cell and I always have it on.

Dave
05 Ford F150 SuperCrew FX4

DUDE!

Relax!

It's not gonna kill your turbo to have it backsurge once or twice. Even 1000 times. It's not just gonna BLOW UP or anything, but your turbo won't last as long. it won't be tomorrow, it won't be next month, but somewhere down the line... because compressor surge shortens the life of a turbo, it doesn't kill it instantly.

Backsurge has a very distinctive sound. it doesn't "flub" - it "skkkkkkitttttttter"s. It just sounds like you're running lower boost than is recommended for that BOV.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I'm trying to relax Dino, but ya gotta understand, after going from a 1st gen BOV to a Greddy I thought that it would be better for performance and sound, and when I had the 1st gen it was no problem whatsoever, at high boost it was PSHHHHHHHHHH...and than at low to moderate boost it was still blowing off, just sorta leaky sounding, Anyhow, I am trying to calm down now, it's just that my BOV is at a difficult position and I don't want to put my car (front is off, front bar is off, intake filter from the turbo is off) back together and than somebody on here tells me it's just this or this or this and than retake everything off. LoL, unlike you smart guys who just bought a turbo kit, this custom thing has some difficult spots to where I can't access some bolts and parts unless i had some access to some tools. Anyhow, I would put my 1st gen back on but the kid picked up the turbo kit and everything already, so I'm stuck with the Greddy, not that I'm complaining, if only it was working.

BTW, would a smaller vacuum line possibly be the cause? The silicone line that I ran to the BOV was the same one I had on my 1st gen, however, the barb from the Greddy BOV was bigger than the barb on my first gen. What I'm thinking that there is not enough vacuum to release the air into the atmosphere and that's why even sometimes at high boost, I still hear a slight FLUB before it Pshhhhhhhhh...... Ok i'm done. for now that is....

Sorry about freaking out guys, but if only you knew what I've been going through with the wench




Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

Well you got a BOV for like heavy duty boost right and the 1G bov was made for something less. Heh you want it mostly for the sound anyway. it's gonna do that no matter what at lower rpm, remember the star stage 1 kits don't come with bovs because the boost isn't that much so just turn up the boost and it'll be better, I'm stuck in the same situation but no harm done, the bov still worx and so does the turbo. So like Dino sez chill out.

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

Maybe this helps (from the RRE page):

The GReddy valve has two fittings for small vacuum lines on it. The top fitting is for the same hose that went to the original stock bypass valve, the hose that goes to the intake manifold. The lower fitting is normally left open. It is a vent for the lower chamber of the valve.

On some cars with large turbos, compressor surge at light throttle lifts can be further reduced by connecting the lower fitting to a pressure source. Typically a fitting is added to an I/C pipe between the turbo outlet and the valve.

14.2@98.5
4g63
FP Big28
Hallman MBC
1g Bov
HKS Hiper Catback
OBX highflow cat
DSMlink

I use to have that problem with the type s but I put some boost pressure

I put a hose between my boost controller and T'd it off to the turbo and to the lower portion of the BOV....I don't get any turkey sound anymore...even when i boost at 1psi...i just get a nice whistle sound....

1) By taking off the pipe that connects the filter to the turbo you reduces the little amount of compressor surge - I ain't an engineer but it worked for rick and it did a little for me. Plus it gave the filter more room to breathe.
2) With the Greddy type-S the spring load was too stiff cuz I think that BOV suppports 35 psi and I only boost uhhh 5 psi MAX...1 regularly. Anyhow, all you hafta do is unscrew the top allen screws and the top pops off. Viola!..two springs take the smaller one off and put back together and adjust your screw. You'll get a nice crisp long whistle..the kind that is ear-piercing, attention getting and intimidating. I feel that the BOV is a top reason for getting a turbo, ricey - eh...you turbo heads know wsup.
3) The valve stays open at idle because of the vaccumm. The vaccumm line plays a very important part in the valve openning and closing. Example: If I run the car without the line i will flutter - at idle the valve is open. When I take off the line the valve closes = when i go into boost, or near boost the valve is shut when it counts. Also, when it boost the vaccumm line turns into boost pushing the diaphram down and keeping the valve closed.

Just Try It!
ALvin

Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

okay this will fix it.....
if you hook up the small boost port it will work better, BUT, the boost chamber that the little port is hooked to leaks. it leaks alot, there are no seals for the lower chamber so it just plain leaks boost, and if you hook up your wastegate/boost controller line hear your controller will not work as good as it should....overboost!....well, take apart the BOV take the purple part off and then take the valve assembly out it should consist of the actual valve a diaphram and the bearing/bushing housing. you need to get 2 o-rings tin ones i found mine at pep boys and then put them around the two shoulders that the aluminum bearing housing has. then reassemble the bov back together. this will seal the boost chamber and then T the wastegate line and hook it to the smallport. that's it....it will work great after this and make sure you adjust it so it is just a little more pressure after it closes at idle. I have had 3 BOV's the best outta the box was the blitz dual drive. this one is real nice, but it is rather quiet. i use it for stealth situations. the other one i have is the greddy, it is pretty loud and whistles but it is cool if you do this mod. i use this when i go out for some attention, the HKS, piece of crap, iused it for a couple of months tried to fix the damn gobble, nothing i could do would fix it so i sold that shit.
lates
james

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy

Ok first off Nameless Eclipse:

So what you are saying in my situation is this:

I need to run a line from the lower port of the Greddy BOV and "t" it into my wastegate line??

I just cut my vacuum line that runs from my wastegate to my turbo and stick a "t" in there and run that to the lower port of the Greddy BOV and keep the upper vacuum hose intact??

Jamesman,
Sounds like a pain BUT:

"well, take apart the BOV take the purple part off and then take the valve assembly out it should consist of the actual valve a diaphram and the bearing/bushing housing. you need to get 2 o-rings tin ones i found mine at pep boys and then put them around the two shoulders that the aluminum bearing housing has. then reassemble the bov back together. this will seal the boost chamber and then T the wastegate line and hook it to the smallport. that's it."

Also in your setup do we use both set ups of the Greddy BOV, both the top and bottom, because you said just "T the wastegate line and hook it up to the smallport." does that mean we don't need to use the upper one?

Wow thanks for all the help guys.


Mick

Shogun Body Kit
GTR Flared Wing
Arospeed Muffler
Half red-Clearm Tails
QT s-08 18"
Toyo Proxes Z4 215/18/35
..some turbo thingy me and Ray pieced together...

Don't have the stock Eclipse anymore
Just a stock Gsr now,

yes you still neet to use the larger upper vacuum port. using boost source and a vac source will open the valve faster and farther and make it work alot better
lates
james

Rest In Peace Heidi Doggy

I have the OEM 3000GT BOV that came with my stage II kit from Hahn. It has a big (maybe 1 1/4") opening, so there's no whistles...just a "WHSHHHHHHHT" I like the way it sounds, but it could be about 40dB louder and I'd be happy.

I'm probably going to buy an aftermarket BOV in a month or so though... Any suggestions as to which one to get?

Old School 2GNTer
Now rockin an 05 SRT-4

Uh.....I have no problem with my boost and i'm at 10psi right now. I don't get no boost spike or leak at all....maybe you had a defective BOV if you've tried it.....mine works fine and whistles LOUD....the only time it might gobble is if the car is just started and is very cold.....other then that mine whisltes all day long....no boost leak or anything....but hey i guess im the lucky one here