You all probably know that my manifold is leaking from where the turbo bolts on the manifold(square, 4 bolts). It started leaking after the last time I had the damn thing welded(thought it was hopefullt the last), they must have got it too hot and warped it a tiny tiny bit...

Anyways, I have replaced all vaccume lines and ic piping fittings within the last tear down/re-install session... so I know thats all good, but I am having a hard time building boost... Its a steady build, but very slow, usually, 1-2 seconds, after boost starts spooling, the needle tacks whatever preset level I have it on and stays, now it takes at least twice as long...

To make a long thing short, I am loosing my boost from the leaky mating surface between the manifold and turbo, right? Someone on here said no thats not the case, thats just exhaust, no big deal... but that exhaust is BEFORE it shoots through the exhaust side of the turbo, so its not getting to spool right, correct?
Thanks,
--
Brad Rickard
98 GS HRC Stage V (nuff said)

Right. it's just like having a partially open wastegate all the time... that's why you're spooling so slowly.

If you think it might be leaking pipes, try this:

1. take off your filter
2. get a cardboard box
3. Start your car
4. put the cardboard box over the mouth of your intake
5. If it seals enough (and your IC pipes are sealed well) your car will die.
6. Sputter, no die? hear that hiss? Found your leak.

_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Well, all my logic told me that was my prob, but after someone on here said they would rule that out, I got confused so I posted to the list Thanks Dino. Thanks also for the tip on how to check for IC leaks, I'm sure that will help a lot of people(unless everyone already knew that except me )
--
Brad Rickard
98 GS HRC Stage V (nuff said)

Hey, that's a great trick. Wyatt's thing was with the PVC endcap with a air compressor hook-up which works as well

alvin



Star stage I
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Southland Dual Friction Clutch
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Andy's Front Bumper
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Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Yeah, i have one of those - made it for about $10. The biggest problem i had with it was finding a source of compressed air capable of outputting the volume needed to pressurize all my IC piping to 10-15PSI.. my way works with no extras

Of course, pressure is the ideal way.

_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/