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Yes you can drill and tap the header I did on mine, but there isn't enough metal to actually hold the probe. Get a nut the right size and have a shop weld it on.
I drilled mine(with the held of some cutting oil from my tap set) and then tapped it. With a bolt and nut threaded the nut on the bolt and screrwed it into the head and the had the shop weld on the nut so the threads lined up between the nut and the threads I tapped into the header.Then backed out the bolt and screwed in the EGT probe. Best place is a2-4" from the head in #4 runner.
"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard, The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow, And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/
All Motor Beast in the Making
Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads
To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
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