does it really matter where the intake manifold is tapped? Or as long as each fogger is placed in an individual runner it'll be fine? Does it really matter how far/close to the head you tap? I wont be running it for a few months (at the least), but I have a spare intake mani i'm gonna start preparing for it. Also, what would you guys reccomend for fuel? It'll be a 100 shot and I have a 195 wally. Should I upgrade to a 255 or will the 195 be enough? Would it also be reccomended to get an FPR?
#108553, "RE: Direct port nitrous" In response to Reply # 0 Feb-28-11 04:54 PM by CODE4
Anywhere in the intake manifold runners should work. Back when I ran a basic EFI wet kit I had the single nozzle mounted in the elbow of the AEM V2 you are running on your car right now, heh.
Just keep the mounting consistent. You can mount them on the underside to be sneaky about the setup too. A 255 pump would not hurt. The 195 should work but do not quote me on it. Walbros are cheap enough it is a worthwhile investment regardless.
Ultimately you need to monitor fuel pressures during spray along with WBO2 readings. Fuel pump failure while spraying, and BOOM (headshot) - kiss the motor good-bye.
#108555, "RE: Direct port nitrous" In response to Reply # 1
well until the motor is obviously ready for a 100 shot, I do plan on running a single wet-kit fogger in the AEM tap you installed
I feel I have enough monitoring gauges already installed on the car. I'm just waiting for a SS line to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. But i'm hoping to be picking up an after market fuel rail so I may just wait for that to instal the gauge. Otherwise, does anyone know off the top of the head what size fitting I could install on the factory test port on the rail?
Also Dave, with my version MS, what would have to be modded on the board for that to act as my "window switch" and nitrou controller? Do-able? or not worth the trouble? Because the kit i'm hopefully picking up will be comming with a brand new window switch. But if it's possible to use MS and keep that as my "sole" control, I feel that'd be easier. I could be wrong tho.
#108556, "RE: Direct port nitrous" In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by jdm1990 does anyone know off the top of the head what size fitting I could install on the factory test port on the rail?
-4 AN. Remove the schrader needle/pin in the middle first.
Originally posted by jdm1990 Also Dave, with my version MS, what would have to be modded on the board for that to act as my "window switch" and nitrou controller? Do-able? or not worth the trouble? Because the kit i'm hopefully picking up will be comming with a brand new window switch. But if it's possible to use MS and keep that as my "sole" control, I feel that'd be easier. I could be wrong tho.
It would be easier just to mount the switch on your TB so that at WOT the solenoids open.
#108557, "RE: Direct port nitrous" In response to Reply # 3
damn. Short and easy to understand. Thats why I like asking you questions haha.
Now are the adaptor fitting to make the -6An line fit the fuel pressure gauge? Which is noticably larger? I'm VERY new to AN fittings if you couldn't tell.
If you have a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, it is likely a 1/8" NPT fitting on the gauge. Nearly all gauge kits come with the appropriate NPT to -4 AN adapter for the use of a braided SS line. At least all Autometer mechanical gauges I have seen do.
#108559, "RE: Direct port nitrous" In response to Reply # 5
I bought my gauge used tho.. But I just found the adapter on summit racing for the gauge to a -6an. 10 bucks, so I don't think thats bad.
Also just started to do some price gathering on SS lines. found a 6ft SS line on summit for 60 bucks. That should be plenty long enough to hook up the gauge. Also I already have my wideband wired in so thats good to go.
other then that, looks like it's time to start researching the rest of my info so I can stop bugging you like I normally do haha
