At 18psi the car made 420whp and 363wtq. That is all Chart/video will be up tomorrow!

Badass man! Congrats.

Well, my car is still at the shop but looks like the oil pump just took a shit. I go to start it and have zero oil pressure, take the feed off the turbo and nothing comes out, take the oil pan off and a couple rod caps off and I have bearing wear, the crank looks fine, but the bearings need changing. Now I'm just contimplating changing the mains or not. There was maybe only 2 parts of the bearing in the oil pan the size of a mm of 20ga wire(very small). The only thing I can come up with that would cause going from a dyno pull with over 50 psi of oil pressure to starting it up the next day is just a bad oil pump. BLEH/FUCK!

For some reason we cant find the 420 chart but 415 will do...

Is the pickup tight?

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Holy fuck. What r the chances of 2 oil pumps. That's quite annoying. Glad u caught it though. I'd get an OEM pump this time around. Awesome numbers though, congrats. Should be a blast to drive! Good idea D. Check that zac

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Very nice Zac!!!

I wish I had blown it, believe me, I do...

Very Cool!

Here is the top and bottom of number 2 and the bottom of number 3...





They don't look horrible, but that have more than normal wear on them. Thats just the rod bearings.

First off congrats on the numbers .

Then; what's going on between 5600ish and 6400ish? Yucky dip in an area that you want strength.

Then; OEM pump should be used. No Melling, no aftermarket. I actually prefer to use low mile used OEM pumps; Did we have this conversation?

Then; yeah, I'm not found of those bearings. As much as I like the balance and the toughness of our cranks/mains, I would be inclined (from looking at the bearings) to pull the bedplate and do the mains.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Congrats!

We didn't have the conversation but I agree with you Mark, I'm pulling the engine again I guess and going to go with new mains as well. I already have a new oem pump, and new clevites (mains and rods) on order now. The dip in power is actually the internal wastegate or the MBC, it spike to 19psi and falls off to around 14 then goes back up to 18 up top. I was contemplating leaving the mains but afterlooking at them(rod bearings) and thinking about it I don't want to risk it. I was very surprised with this set up. At 9 psi it made 302 and this is NOT on race gas, its on E85 pump gas. I was happy with it until the 0 oil pressure thing, and it just happend all of the sudden. The run before that the oil pressure started at 50psi and went up a bit. I pulled the plugs out to gap them down tighter because I was getting some blow out and put them back in started the car and bam, Zero oil pressure. I turned it back off and pulled the feed for the turbo off and cranked it, still nothing. Just odd for it to just stop like that. Now I'm thinking if I want to push the log manifold and e85 to the limit or change the manifold for somthing even more sick (6) With 415 at 18 psi I think I could be over 500(manifold willing) at 26psi

Nice, What turbo is this on?

97 Eclipse GS, 2.2 stroker,Gt35R,MSNS,E85 @20psi. 450hp 370tq..With issues

Hahn S25g

I also just checked my DC on the injectors at 239kpa(roughly 20psi) is only 70. So looks like I'm good there...

Originally posted by Slo2gNow I'm thinking if I want to push the log manifold and e85 to the limit or change the manifold for somthing even more sick (6) With 415 at 18 psi I think I could be over 500(manifold willing) at 26psi

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Congrats, are you using msns.

__
1995 gs Saved from the crusher
1998 RS gone to(Dsm Heaven)
1997 gs gone to Dsm heaven

Fucking awesome Zac! Do keep us all posted on your continued progress.

1999 Eclipse GS
Built motor
Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC
Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's)
Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP
3" SS Turbo Back
CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel
Baer Big Brake Kit

Well, got the motor out today, the bearings will hopefully be here tomorrow and I will get them changed out and plastigauged. The the oil pump should be here on Thursday...anywho pics....

Main bearing pics....They are big but you can see what happend. Good news is, i won't need a new crank

Nice, too bad about the oil pump. I have heard of just about every brand oil pump crapping out except the oem one.

Well, after looking at the crank again and having it out of my mind for a bit, I've decided to get it polished, figured it can't hurt. Anywho, I look to have the crank at the machine shop in the morning and hopefully back on the road within 3 weeks. Maybe sooner but hopefully I will be busy moving into my new house. Pics to come...

Those bearing are very much bad. I would go as far as to say they arent horrible either.


Bearing wear will also tell you if your rich or lean. That dip in your curve combined with bearings (i know the oil pressure is an issue too) tells me you ran lean. Idealy with proper oil pressure and mixture the bearings will have a Semi-dull appearance. Pure Dull is rich and Shiny is lean.

Thats good to know, you can see the afr map at the bottom of the dyno chart. The dip in power is from the boost controller dropping boost and then picking back up, you can hear it in the dyno video, but it very well could be a lean condition in addition to the boost surge . I took the crank to the shop today and he wants to do a refresh on the rods too so now the whole motor has to come apart, pretty much going to be a full rebuild now. I don't want to take the pistons out and stick the same rings back in, I think it wouldn't or would have a hard time sealing back. He told me at the shop that he would have to take some more measurements but he might be able to just polish the crank. At this point its probably going to sit for a bit. I don't have a whole lot of time to be messing with it. Maybe in a month I can revisit it and see about getting it back together. My thing is if I have to take a head off, I'm probably going to stick a heavily ported one back on and stick some bigger cams in and shoot for over 550-600.

I have gone through a similar discussion with a local shop about rings as well. As long as the rings have proper wear patterns and are low mileage AND YOU RE-HONE THE Block with a ball hone, the rings should reseal no problem. Me personally I use new rings....old habits die hard. THe Shop hear is pretty well known for both gas and alcohal mustangs so its not liek they are a fly by night joint either.