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From Corbin's engine rebuild write-up (http://2gnt.com/index.php?d=A%20Proper%20Rebuild):
Double check every bolt and connection. Fill up all of the fluids. Keep the car on engine stands. Now, fire the engine up. It might cough a little, but let it run. If you have an oil pressure gauge, look at it. You will likely see the oil pressure start at 75 psi and drop down to 25 psi as the engine warms up. While this is happening, look everywhere for leaks. You are looking for coolant, oil, exhaust, anything. If you have a really major leak, shut the engine off too fix it. If it is minor, you should probably just let it go for now. It might seal up as the engine warms up. You should keep running back to the cockpit to check out the gauges. If you have a boost gauge, check the vaccum. It will likely be in the 16-20 in-Hg range. If you have an air/fuel gauge, make sure the O2 sensor starts to cycle after a minute or so. After the engine has fully warmed up and run for 15 to 20 minutes, shut it off. Drain the oil and change the filter. This should remove any loose debris that might have made its way into the system during the build. If you have a turbo with an internal wastegate, you may choose to remove the actuator before driving the car. This will keep you from building any boost. Start the engine again and let it fully warm up. Find an empty stretch of road and do a 30 to 50 mph run and compression brake back down to 30 mph. Keep the car in the lowest gear that will keep you below 4k RPM max. Keep the car in the low gear during the compression braking to pull a lot of vacuum. Do this repeatedly for the next 20 miles. Now, drive in stop and go traffic for the next 200 miles. Stay off the interstate. Use your gears and vary the engine RPM when cruising, still keeping under 4k RPM. Compression brake when possible. Don't lug the engine in a high gear. When you hit 220 miles, change the oil and filter again. Use cheap dino oil again. Do the same stop and go traffic crap until you hit 620 total miles. Just change the oil this time (cheap dino oil). Do the stop and go traffic thing again, but mix in some highway cruising if you have to. When you hit 1,020 miles, change your plugs and do a compression test. If everything looks good, you can put the wastegate actuator back on (but keep the boost low). Change the oil and filter again with cheap dino oil. Drive in mixed stop and go traffic and interstate cruising until you hit 1,520 total miles. Now, you can change the oil and filter with full synthetic or whatever you would normally use. If everything seems to be running well, you are free to drive the car how you want now. Full boost, rev limit, whatever it was built to handle. Have fun and keep it between the lines!
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